Too advanced?

[Jim]

How about let's just let it go?

Be my guest. This was never all about you, it was about using correct terminology. Your attendance isn't required.

Or I retard my timing a touch?

Yep. I'm running about 35-36° on my bike. No noticeable decrease in performance and more peace of mind knowing I'm further away from the detonation zone when using lower octane gas. Win win.

 

[Dom]

OK I'm going to ask another question now, I thought the advance was set purely by aligning the crank mark to the F (I have mine set right at the first mark of the Firing area) and then that determined the advance position. Is that not the case? How is the degree of advance adjusted as I've followed YouTube videos and my Haynes and Yamaha manuals.

 

[Jim]

OK I'm going to ask another question now, I thought the advance was set purely by aligning the crank mark to the F (I have mine set right at the first mark of the Firing area) and then that determined the advance position. Is that not the case? How is the degree of advance adjusted as I've followed YouTube videos and my Haynes and Yamaha manuals.

The amount of advance is set relative to idle fire. In other words, the "amount" of advance is preset in both the mechanical (points) and electronic (TCI) system. Just rough numbers... but about 15° at idle and 40° at full advance. The "amount" of advance is not adjustable.

To reduce advance you need to retard idle ignition. If you set your points to fire at about 10° at idle, full advance will be brought back to about 35°.
Before you ask, running with lower timing at idle doesn't hurt a thing... you seldom run the bike at idle anyway. And as you've found out, less advance at idle makes for easier starts.

 

[mike in idaho]

I use a piece stiff wire bent in a V shape, inserted in the holes on the advance weights, to hold them out in the advanced position. Then I can static time to the full advance marks.

 

[DaveO]

Ive seen the video on Facebook.

@Dom I couldn't see your video very well on my phone. I always mark the timing mark with snopake (whiteout). But now, on my PC, it looks OK. At tickover maybe just a tad advanced.

As has been said here, the timing is set at 5 degrees and the mechanical advance takes care of the advancing. It is not adjustable. It is, though, a serviceable item (on the opposite side to your points). Check operation, check spring tension, clean and lubricate.

Hope this helps.

Dave

 

[Dom]

I've tried to adjust it today but have gone backwards! The problem I'm having is that the cam on the points has a small amount of slack making accurate adjustments awkward, added to that the crank flicking past the F mark and struggling to hold it there.

 

[DaveO]

Don't hold it there. Set the points roughly and hook up a bulb or a multimeter so that you can see when the points open. (Thats when the ignition fires - but you knew that ). Use a well-fitting ring on the end of the crank and turn the crank repeatedly past the 5 degree point. Move the points to adjust. Try again. Always approach the 5 degree mark going in the direction of the running engine? forwards? counterclockwise? That ensures that the cam chain is tight on the correct side.

I've not done it for years so that's just my 2 cents.

 

[gggGary]

The "amount" of advance is not adjustable.

Not QUITE true....
sloppy weights, springs can affect advance.
On high mile engines it's possible for the weight knobs that engage the disc on the rod to be worn out of shape.
There WAS a Yamaha SB to bend the tabs that stop weight rotation in to reduce total advance but they rescinded it when they found the hardened shell might crack/break off if bent.
A simple advance "limiter" is a thin shim glued inside the shell that stops the advance weights.

Bottom line there's no short cut around using a timing strobe gun to check your ignition timing advance action.

 

[jpdevol]

I've tried to adjust it today but have gone backwards! The problem I'm having is that the cam on the points has a small amount of slack making accurate adjustments awkward, added to that the crank flicking past the F mark and struggling to hold it there.

Have you adjusted the cam chain and verified ~1mm of movement in the tensioner rod? If so, then you just need to experiment to allow for the slack to get the desired opening time.

All those procedures are accomplished rotating the engine a bit, rather than completely static

 

[Dom]

All sorted after I threw my toys out of the pram guys!

I've got it safely inside of the F and advancing pretty much bang on to the advance line

 

[DaveO]

Thanks @gggGary