Not having a check valve on the breather wouldn't cause seal wear. In the stock configuration, there was no valve, just a hose.
Fuel lines don't have "vacuum leaks"
No, you don't absolutely need one, but many of us feel they are beneficial. Normally, with an open hose, pressure come out when the pistons force air down into the crankcase during their down stroke, but then some air gets sucked back in when the pistons go back up. With the one way check valve, air is only allowed to come out, not back in. This can create a slight vacuum in the crankcase and that's said to be beneficial for preventing oil leaks. It's also said that the engine can produce a bit more power like this but I can't say I've noticed that. The valves many of us use are available at many auto parts stores and don't cost much, only about $5 .....
The large intake side is a perfect fit in the breather hose, and the 90° configuration works perfectly to direct the outlet down onto the pod. I started out using a small K&N filter on the end of my hoses. It was always wet with oil. I never saw it actually drip any but it was very wet. These check valve seem to work much better. Like I said, I've never seen any oil coming out of them.
I can't believe I'm saying this. Fuel lines are lightly PRESSURIZED. NOT vacuum. The quantity of the fuel in the tank will determine the amount of pressure in the line.
Peanut is trying to spread his BUTTER again...................
No, you don't absolutely need one, but many of us feel they are beneficial. Normally, with an open hose, pressure come out when the pistons force air down into the crankcase during their down stroke, but then some air gets sucked back in when the pistons go back up. With the one way check valve, air is only allowed to come out, not back in. This can create a slight vacuum in the crankcase and that's said to be beneficial for preventing oil leaks. It's also said that the engine can produce a bit more power like this but I can't say I've noticed that. The valves many of us use are available at many auto parts stores and don't cost much, only about $5 .....
The large intake side is a perfect fit in the breather hose, and the 90° configuration works perfectly to direct the outlet down onto the pod. I started out using a small K&N filter on the end of my hoses. It was always wet with oil. I never saw it actually drip any but it was very wet. These check valve seem to work much better. Like I said, I've never seen any oil coming out of them.
I wasn't sure if the po had vacuum petcocks or gravity .
There shouldn’t be enough oil in the vapor mix escaping to cause much concern.If the crankcase nipple that you attache the breather and valve to is just open wouldn't oil just run down the side of my engine? Or does the valve allow pressure to be released?
However, the leak is not coming from my fuel line and filters its probably my manifold on the right carb boot. Sorry for the confusion.
Now you are getting there !However, the leak is not coming from my fuel line and filters its probably my manifold on the right carb boot. Sorry for the confusion.
Now you are getting there !
Upon reinstallation of the carbs into the manifolds I would discourage use of an oil lubricant. I would encourage to clean the manifolds. Even just a dab of soapy water can help the carbs fit into the manifolds properly .
Due to the lack now of the air box rear carbs support. It is more important for good and solid carb installation.
... Say if a guy did use light grease on the boots and then did not adequately tighten the clamps, Then while riding in an unfamiliar town which is riddled with speed bumps, excessive speed over those bumps could easily result in the carbs just falling out of the manifolds ? And there you would be wondering WTF ? (I cannot say who this may have happened to ?)
-RT
Now you are getting there !
Upon reinstallation of the carbs into the manifolds I would discourage use of an oil lubricant. I would encourage to clean the manifolds. Even just a dab of soapy water can help the carbs fit into the manifolds properly .
Due to the lack now of the air box rear carbs support. It is more important for good and solid carb installation.
... Say if a guy did use light grease on the boots and then did not adequately tighten the clamps, Then while riding in an unfamiliar town which is riddled with speed bumps, excessive speed over those bumps could easily result in the carbs just falling out of the manifolds ? And there you would be wondering WTF ? (I cannot say who this may have happened to ?)
-RT
Did the float test and it seems to be ok. The floats are new and I've tested the valve before. Seems good. Initially I thought that maybe my valve seal was leaking oil into my cylinder thats why my plug is wet? Any thoughts?IMO The right float valve is not working, get that fixed first. Fuel level in the line connected to the turned off petcock is meaningless. If the carbs are both working as they should the second petcock will be just fine on OR off. Make a float bowl fuel level checker connected to the float bowl drain, all will be revealed.
my valve seal was leaking oil into my cylinder thats why my plug is wet?
How would I tell the difference? Also wouldn't oil leaking in show white smoke burning. Could also be weak spark I suppose.Only if it's soaked with oil if it's gas then no.
If I have a pamco 277 ignition. I would not be able to switch the spark plug leads to see if the problem goes to the other side correct? Because the cylinders fire at separate times?Smell. rubbing on your fingers. Yes could be spark fer sher.