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Van Islander's TX650A - Quest for a Daily Rider
- Thread starter TX650A Van Islander
- Start date
I had 712s on the 76 I just sold today. I only put a few hundred miles on em but I thought they were a pretty decent tire. No complaints.
I think the stock sizes look a little better and the bigger tire seemed to be a little sluggish on the initial take off in a corner. Just my personal preference.
I think the stock sizes look a little better and the bigger tire seemed to be a little sluggish on the initial take off in a corner. Just my personal preference.
Grundoon
XS650 Member
Great thread Van Islander. It's been over a dozen years since I've been on this forum and what a great welcome back! Not to mention that we're practically neighbours. I'm in Nanaimo so those shots by the water were great to see. I'm doing a full tear down and polish on my '79 Special so I can pass an out of province safety and get collectors plates like you have. Frame and swingarm are coming back from the powder coater tomorrow. I've always had Avon Tires on mine as well. I'll probably stick with those.
Grundoon - another islander! Welcome and thanks for the compliment. We will have to get together one day. I'll have this bike back on the road in mid-July, so perhaps a ride to Nanaimo is in store. 
Grundoon
XS650 Member
Wonderful. Mine will be a little longer in the garage, in pieces unfortunately. However, my boat is running and the Chinook season opens mid July......
Update - the Shinko 712s are installed on the bike as of this past Saturday and have about 100 miles on them. I'm playing around with different air pressures (my Haynes book says 23 to 25 psi front and 28 to 30 psi rear; I'm curious to know what pressures you guys run. It seemed to me these road tires wanted more air pressure than that (I had dual sports tires before) but the bike doesn't seem to like it, especially the front tire.
The tire install went well. Getting the old crap tires off, especially the rear, was more difficult than installing the new ones. I used a big c-clamp to break the bead on the old tires.
My original wheels (I presume they're original) needed a bit of truing. I borrowed a stand (have a new one on order now just to have for the future) and ended up making a spoke wrench out of a piece of steel about 3/16" thick. Zip wheel and patient filing made for an exact fit on the spokes. Before I did this, I soaked the spoke nipples with WD-40 for at least 2 days. They all turned ok and I eventually got to about 1 mm runout. Excellent threads on spoke adjustment and wheel truing on the forum, thanks!
Here is the bike showing off it's new boots!
The tire install went well. Getting the old crap tires off, especially the rear, was more difficult than installing the new ones. I used a big c-clamp to break the bead on the old tires.
My original wheels (I presume they're original) needed a bit of truing. I borrowed a stand (have a new one on order now just to have for the future) and ended up making a spoke wrench out of a piece of steel about 3/16" thick. Zip wheel and patient filing made for an exact fit on the spokes. Before I did this, I soaked the spoke nipples with WD-40 for at least 2 days. They all turned ok and I eventually got to about 1 mm runout. Excellent threads on spoke adjustment and wheel truing on the forum, thanks!
Here is the bike showing off it's new boots!
Did you check the balance? Ive had several new tires installed and balanced but many of them come back with no weights.
Yes I did, and both required some weights. I took a photo of the weights in case I lose them, so I can reinstall new ones if necessary.
I only weigh 150# and usually start at 90% the max load stated pressure on the tire itself. I don't think the book reflects current-day tires. Then I typically adjust it down (if harsh ride or feels lacking grip) to the point were the handling presents a little more "movement" and then set it about mid-range of those two points: a compromise between harsh and "Squirmy". All that usually produces a result within 4-5psi under sidewall imprint depending on the tire. My front pressures are typically even to 2psi higher than rear if it's a match set.
Same here 5T, modern rubber requires more air. On track days, or off road, we usually run lower than recommended pressures. But for a 40+ year old road bike on new boots go with 5T's recommendations.
Thanks guys for your valued input. I weigh 200 lbs so all the more reason for the higher pressures. Will make some adjustments and go for a burn tonight. Maybe find another barn photo 
Your new tires look good, and I like your homemade spoke wrench!
Start watching eBay for a Rowe brand spoke wrench. It's a very nice little tool and I've yet to find a spoke it won't fit. But beware, there are lots of Chinese knock-offs out there. An original will have the "Rowe" name clearly stamped on it .....
I have one like that. Very solid construction.
Since I installed the Boyer Bransden ignition, I had not adjusted the carbs per the carb guide dead cylinder method. I did that this evening and it seems smooth in acceleration on the street but it is idling a bit low, and sometimes stalls when I come to a stop. I did adjust the timing (with timing light) a bit more retarded before doing these adjustments. I had thought I had set it at full throttle at about 38 degrees BTDC, but was it was right at the full advanced line. So I backed it off a bit and it fires a bit to the right of the F mark.
Perhaps the timing is too retarded?
When I followed the carb guide to the letter, it ended up idling about 900 rpm, a bit too low? Video attached. You can hear it miss just a bit. All of the rotor/stator is stock. Main jet and pilot jets are stock size for '74. The carbs are set up stock, with stock air filter system.
Before doing this I had checked each spark plug. The left was a bit rich and the right was ok. (By my rookie eye)
Perhaps the timing is too retarded?
When I followed the carb guide to the letter, it ended up idling about 900 rpm, a bit too low? Video attached. You can hear it miss just a bit. All of the rotor/stator is stock. Main jet and pilot jets are stock size for '74. The carbs are set up stock, with stock air filter system.
Before doing this I had checked each spark plug. The left was a bit rich and the right was ok. (By my rookie eye)
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Video says Private... can't see it.
Did you adjust the idle screw? Retarding timing lowers idle... needs to be adjusted back up with the idle screw.
Did you adjust the idle screw? Retarding timing lowers idle... needs to be adjusted back up with the idle screw.
I did adjust the idle screw. Need to fix the video. Sorry, I suck at this uploading etc.
That idle speed would be low for me. On my XS I think it idles around 1,100 and that sound pretty low (especially to the 1500 ish rpm of the water Buffalo).
Yes, you need to have the idle around 1100 to 1200 or the bike will randomly just up and stall sometimes.
It's OK to have the timing a little retarded, as long as you're still in the idle timing "range" .....
I have mine set over near the right slash mark, still in the "range" but at the more retarded end of it. Yes, this will cause the idle speed to drop but all you need do is turn it up a little to compensate.
It's OK to have the timing a little retarded, as long as you're still in the idle timing "range" .....
I have mine set over near the right slash mark, still in the "range" but at the more retarded end of it. Yes, this will cause the idle speed to drop but all you need do is turn it up a little to compensate.
