weight reduction ?

I have a lot of parts laying around including internals.. Maybe I'll start weighing some things…

Yep…. It’s decided... I’m going to weigh some things and start a parts index with weights listed. Does anyone know if one of these already exists for the XS650? I don’t want to totally waste my time.

Now to do it in pounds and ounces or kilos? I guess since this is an international crowd I’ll list both. Save you guys from busting out your calculators.
 
I've done everything you can think of .. and it's still a heavy beast !! :yikes:. If you are going to run mags, you may want to invest in some magnesium after markets if you really want to cut down on the weight thing.....:thumbsup:

Or you could do this .... :bike:
XSR1a050702.jpg


http://www.650motorcycles.com/XSR1.html
 
XS650RR said:
I've done everything you can think of .. and it's still a heavy beast !! :yikes:. If you are going to run mags, you may want to invest in some magnesium after markets if you really want to cut down on the weight thing.....:thumbsup:

Or you could do this .... :bike:
XSR1a050702.jpg


http://www.650motorcycles.com/XSR1.html
Click to expand...

If someone retains the stock mags, I would say they need to rethink their weight loss program on an XS650. Those things are anchors and were even when new. I would try to get some 75-79 aluminum rimmed stock wheels. that would make a huge difference.

Beyond that, take a systematic approach. Meaning, disassemble the whole bike. Then weigh every part. Make a chart with the weights starting with the heaviest and then ending with the lightest. Reduce the weights of the biggest, heaviest stuff first which is where you will make the largest reductions with hopefully the least effort.

The point here is, don't put a bunch of effort into drilling a jillion holes in a small bracket to save half an ounce. Buy a digital scale that measures in grams and goes to maybe 6-8 lbs. It needs to be accurate for small assemblys that will be replaced or lightened. Weighing 3 different brands or styles of a part allows you to know which is lightest and what your efforts are buying you when you drill holes or thin out parts.

Keep records of part's weights before and after for future projects. Eliminating parts all together makes a big difference. An eliminated part costs nothing to remove, can't break and can't cause the failure of another part.

Here's a hint: the stock frame, mag wheels, forks, shocks, steel fenders and tank are the heavy hitters bigtime! Passenger pegs, exhaust, stock toolkit, stock bars with steel slugs welded in the ends, airbox and stock carbs are all heavy items that need to be eliminated or severely lightened. Don't even think about a carbon fender or Ti hardware untill you've taken 15 lbs off the frame.

The idea about using a used Ti header system is a good one and I'm currently building a new Bonneville with used Ti header materials. Works bitchin' but requires Ti weld rod which is $140.00 a pound. A lb will probably weld up 20 exhaust systems though!
 
Mule, that's a very methodical way of doing things and great advice about how to go about reducing weight on an XS650, or any motorcycle for that matter.. You wouldn't happen to have a large list of the stock weights of various XS650 parts would you? That would be a great start to the parts weight index. I would start it, but it's going to be damn cold in the Midwest for the next couple of days and it would take a lot of propane to keep the garage warm. Need to wait for it to warm up a little bit.
 
Mule,
Weve chatted back and forth before and I am going to be trying the Ti header. I was told you could tack Ti in open atmosphere as long as you do so with a Tig and have it completely bertical to allow the shielding gasses to flow around the tube. Once tacked have it Ti wleded by a professional. Any tips on that?

I also removed close to 20 lbs of brackets, center stand, stock XS kickstand, and "junk" from frame. I will be using a billet ZX6 kickstand to save a lil more weight.
 
Travis said:
Mule, that's a very methodical way of doing things and great advice about how to go about reducing weight on an XS650, or any motorcycle for that matter.. You wouldn't happen to have a large list of the stock weights of various XS650 parts would you? That would be a great start to the parts weight index. I would start it, but it's going to be damn cold in the Midwest for the next couple of days and it would take a lot of propane to keep the garage warm. Need to wait for it to warm up a little bit.
Click to expand...

Travis,
I'll probably be swapping out handlebars tomorrow, I'll tell you what the stockers weigh.
 
Travis said:
Mule, that’s a very methodical way of doing things and great advice about how to go about reducing weight on an XS650, or any motorcycle for that matter.. You wouldn’t happen to have a large list of the stock weights of various XS650 parts would you? That would be a great start to the parts weight index. I would start it, but it’s going to be damn cold in the Midwest for the next couple of days and it would take a lot of propane to keep the garage warm. Need to wait for it to warm up a little bit.
Click to expand...

Some parts just need to be held in your hands to reveal that there's a major amount of weight to be trimmed off.

I've built a lot of bikes and worked on XS650's in Yamaha shops during their entire build run. On the first custom one I did, more stock parts went into the dumpster than onto the bike, if that's any help with the weights?

There are 3 ways to build a 650 or any bike for that matter. First would be totally stock, restored to be original. Next would be lightly modified to fit the owner's level of courage or budget and lastly would be a "Take no prisoners" full on ground up project. The last one requires that you have time, budget and another bike to ride in the meantime so you don't get impatient and start cutting corners. It's usually best to start with number 2 or maybe even a few like that before you dive into the deep end of the pool.

Back to the weight thing, I could write a book but I'd rather be in the garage cutting weight on the bikes I'm actually working on. However, if you ask me about specific components I'll steer you in the right direction to save weight. Then it would be more managable.

As to specifics, the front end I did on the "Jason's Chassis" on my webpage uses TT500 triple clamps (bored to 38mm) and FZR600 fork legs. That took 12-13 lbs off in one shot! How's that for weight cutting?
 
mule said:
As to specifics, the front end I did on the "Jason's Chassis" on my webpage uses TT500 triple clamps (bored to 38mm) and FZR600 fork legs. That took 12-13 lbs off in one shot! How's that for weight cutting?
Click to expand...

I'd say that's pretty damn good!

Having another bike to ride when doing any work on any motorcycle is a must in my book. If there's not at least one complete running bike in the garage, what are you going to do on that gorgeous summer day when your buddies come over and want to go for a ride? I guess not having a back-up bike is good motivation to get your projects done quickly. But like you said, it’ll probably make you cut some corners.

I found this for the SR500: http://www.siue.edu/~rsutton/SR/weights.htm Must be incomplete or inaccurate though because my SR500 is missing a few parts and still weighs more than the total given. Unless that's just the difference between the dry weight and the wet weight (gas and oil) or me not weighing it accurately. :shrug:
 
Travis said:
I'd say that's pretty damn good!

Having another bike to ride when doing any work on any motorcycle is a must in my book. If there's not at least one complete running bike in the garage, what are you going to do on that gorgeous summer day when your buddies come over and want to go for a ride? I guess not having a back-up bike is good motivation to get your projects done quickly. But like you said, it'll probably make you cut some corners.

I found this for the SR500: http://www.siue.edu/~rsutton/SR/weights.htm Must be incomplete or inaccurate though because my SR500 is missing a few parts and still weighs more than the total given. Unless that's just the difference between the dry weight and the wet weight (gas and oil) or me not weighing it accurately. :shrug:
Click to expand...

That data is interesting, but like running a bike on a dyno, you need to always run on that dyno and strive for incremental increases in RWHP on YOUR bike.

With weight reductions, your bike, your scale, your effort are all that's important. I'm also talking at the basic garage mechanic's level. I'm not talking about race team stuff or exotic materials with unlimited budget.

In Alan Girdler's book, "Harley Racers", there is a picture of Mert Lawwill's early Iron XR, meaning cast iron heads and cyls! It has drum brakes and a steel primary cover. It weighed 309 lbs! If he can do that without exotic materials in 1968 with an anchor as a starting point, anybody can do that with an XS650 right now! Tonight! Get busy!
 
Install a Sportster aluminum hub with a light disc and caliper and you'll probably take 6 lbs off the rear wheel. But the holes sure look cool.
 
I'm sure Mule will chime in as he is the one who guided me thru this. For rotors he used a beull rotor. I kinda wanted to stick with the race look and EBC makes a wave rotor for Harley that I'll be using. So by that you should be able to tell I'm using a Harley rear hub as well (thanks Mule) but I had a hard time finding a used aluminum Sporty hub. From what I've read and asked the Harley guys, all Harley hubs were the same with the exception of the Sporty being RSD (right side drive). So my aluminum hub is off from a 2000 Touring Hatley. It's still a 40 Spoke hub. And I'll be using a Sprocket Specilaties sprocket. They offer them with "race hole lightning" and down to like 28 teeth, along with the "wave" rotor from EBC
 
73novaguy said:
I'm sure Mule will chime in as he is the one who guided me thru this. For rotors he used a beull rotor. I kinda wanted to stick with the race look and EBC makes a wave rotor for Harley that I'll be using. So by that you should be able to tell I'm using a Harley rear hub as well (thanks Mule) but I had a hard time finding a used aluminum Sporty hub. From what I've read and asked the Harley guys, all Harley hubs were the same with the exception of the Sporty being RSD (right side drive). So my aluminum hub is off from a 2000 Touring Hatley. It's still a 40 Spoke hub. And I'll be using a Sprocket Specilaties sprocket. They offer them with "race hole lightning" and down to like 28 teeth, along with the "wave" rotor from EBC
Click to expand...

We'll there you have it ! :)
 
Travis said:
So for the sprocket, you don't need any offset? A quick look on ebay shows a bunch of different rear hubs for harleys. Do I need to look for one with 4 mounting holes on one side and 5 on the other?
Click to expand...

Five holes on both sides and you will have to play with the front sprocket alignment. Tip: Almost nothing of this nature will be a straight "Bolt-on" Ever! Don't expect it or even hope for it. There is no X-Mas Bunny. You'll have to do a little figgerin', but it's not a big deal. Also when you order a sprocket, get a 520 and have the back side of the front sprocket machined to 520 thickness (.231"). This will get you on your way to chain alignment. Another thing I do is make another bearing spacer that goes behind the c/s sprocket. You can pick up anout .100" or more there and you could take a little off of the sprocket bolt up face(easily) from the hub if you do all your alignment work prior to getting your complete wheel laced up.
 

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