What cylinder kit to use

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kazoom

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Hi all
I am thinking of rebuilding my engine and considering the cost of man hours here in denmark for a cylinder honning i am looking at the big fin cylinder kit from both mikes and heiden they seem to differ in engine fit as mikes states its for the 447 and the heiden is for 533 my engine number is 447-501701 does that mean i have a 447 ? also my cam chain tensioner looks different than the one on their pic (looks to be the same pic on both sites) i have the 6 bolt setup.

Just hate to order the wrong stuff (my box of things i didnt really need is full) so any help would be appriciated.

Best regards
 

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Your bike is a 75 XS650B model. It's a European model so it has the 533 engine.
The first bikes had the 256 engine. it had longer rods with shorter pistons than the 447 engine. In Europe they used a 533 engine that I think had even longer rods with shorter pistons.
To be sure just what you have the rods have the 256, 447 or 533 printed on them. Once you pull the top end off your engine you will see the numbers on the rods. Once you find out the number, order parts accordingly.
The big fin 750 kits will have the right pistons for your engine as long as you order the kit that has the same numbers as your rods.
When ever your not sure of the parts you need, tear what ever it is down, insect what you have then order just what you need.
Leo
 
Hi leo
I was thinking of the 650 version with the big fins.
Will inspect the the numbers when i open it up
What threw me off was that both sites uses the same photo wich i think is the us 447 version it has a different cam chain tensioner setup than the european 533. Heiden tuning states they have the 533 version but the picture looks like a 447 with a single hole for the cam tensioner. The 533 is square and uses 6 bolts. Or am i messeing things up.

As always leo thanks for your response
Best regards
 
The big fin cylinders delete the cam chain tensioner housing. It has just the hole for the tensioner adjuster. The parts the adjuster threads into and bolts to the cylinders is made as part of the cylinder.
You just unscrew the tensioner from the housing on your cylinders and thread it into the big fin cylinders. No separate housing. This eliminates one possible point for oil to leak.
This applies to the 650 and 750 version.
If you can get the cash do the 750 kit. It gives you a bit more hp, but on my 75 it lessened the vibes at the higher rpms, like above 3500-4000. One the stock engine the vibes increase dramatically at this rpms range, with the 750 it doesn't. it stays the same all through the rpm range.
This makes highway speeds much easier on the rider.
Leo
 
Hi so i opened up the engine and to all surprise it looks like some po did a top end rebuild at some point, my guess is that the seal was defekt or something, it looks like oil was comming from the cam chain tunnel to the cylinder, there was an oily surface between those two.
i have posted some pics cause i have never opened up an engine before so if you see anything suspect please let me know. there was a lot of carbon on the valves especially the exhaust valves i have read in some threads that paint stripper is the thing for removing it, what kind is it.

Best regards simon
 

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Head gaskets often go bad as yours does. I might pull the jugs and measure the bores and pistons to determine clearances and measure ring gaps.
Your this close, might as well be sure.
A bad head gasket lets oil get pulled into the combustion chamber on the intake stroke. This oil gets burned but leaves extra carbon build up on the exhaust valves and piston tops.
I would do the measurements I mentioned, replace worn parts.
You have the valves out of the head, so checking the valve stem to guide clearance will be easy. Again just to be sure.
Once all the measuring is done lapping the valves and reassembling with new valve stem seals is the next step.
Once the heads ready you can reassemble the cylinders, new base gasket. The cam chain looks ok from here, replacement is often done now. If you find it to worn after you reassemble the engine it takes another tear down to replace. Same with the front cam chain guide.
A few things you might consider is a clean up of the ports in the head. Just clean up the casting marks a smooth things up a bit. Elephant foot valve adjusters is a good mod.
Leo
 
So back from a small vacation with my sons football team, ready to dig into my engine,
leo thanks as always for a reply, i will follow your excellent advice.

Best regards simon.
 
casting flaws or a bit of roughness in the intake tracts actually help with fuel/air mixing (atomization) leave them but smooth the exhaust ports
 
If i lift the cylinder block to change the lower gasket will i need a tool to compress the cylinder rings, or will it just slide on an off.
I have tried all kinds of different stuff to remove the carbon build up on the valves but that shit wont let go, any recomendations or do i have to change them.

Best regards simon
 
Simon, I remove carbon on valves using a wire wheelmon a bench grinder - it comes straight off. Other ways are bead blast them or place them in a caustic solution.
 
Yes, wire wheel the valves clean. They're very hard steel so it won't hurt them. I use a knotted wire wheel (very stiff) in my 4 1/2" grinder. Some "before" and "after" shots .....

ExValveFronts.jpg


ExValveBacks.jpg


It appears your motor has been bored to 2nd oversize. That's what the "50" on the piston top would indicate. For carbon removal on the pistons, combustion chambers, and exhaust ports, paint stripper will do the job. Nothing special, just any paint stripper you'll find at the local hardware store in the paint department. "Paint" it on, let it sit and do it's thing for 10 or 15 minutes, and wipe it off. It may take a couple applications to get all the carbon off.
 
Niice to know about the Mike's big bore having that cam chain adjustment housing built into jugs (
Leo). I have.considered buying one and never noticed that. Jeffrey
 
There's no need for a ring compressor on these motors. The bottoms of the bores are beveled so it's easy to work the piston w/rings installed into the bore just using your fingers to compress them. Install both pistons into the bore bottoms, let them hang out just enough so the pins can stick out the sides, and lower the cylinder down onto the rods .....

JugBlocks3.jpg


Push the pins into the rods, install the circlips (new ones), and you're good to go.
 
Slipping the pistons back up in the bores isn't hard to do. There is a beveled edge on the bottom of the sleeve. When your ready to put it back together slip the base gasket down on the engine. Now roll the engine over so the studs are horizontal.
Install clips for the piston pin on the side of the piston that is toward the inside of the engine.
Now slip the pistons into the cylinders. With the bevel you can use a tool such as a credit card to push the rings in enough to let the rings to slide into the cylinders. Once both pistons are in their bores leave them out just below the oil rings. Now slide the cylinders on the studs. Letting the studs support the weight. Slide the cylinders on enough so you can turn the crank to gets the rods out as far as you can. Now slide the cylinders along the studs so the rods line up with the piston pins holes. Slide in the pins. Put in the outer clips. Slide the cylinders down to the cases.
Just remember to put the base gasket and the O-rings around the sleeves before you put the cylinders on. And guide the cam chain out through the cylinders. Now roll back upright and finish the assembly.
I think RG has pics of how to do this.
Leo
 
kazoom said:
Hi all
I am thinking of rebuilding my engine and considering the cost of man hours here in denmark for a cylinder honning i am looking at the big fin cylinder kit from both mikes and heiden they seem to differ in engine fit as mikes states its for the 447 and the heiden is for 533 my engine number is 447-501701 does that mean i have a 447 ? also my cam chain tensioner looks different than the one on their pic (looks to be the same pic on both sites) i have the 6 bolt setup.

Just hate to order the wrong stuff (my box of things i didnt really need is full) so any help would be appriciated.

Best regards
Click to expand...
.... hi if you have some cash or can scrape enough cash buy the 750 hieden kit it seems a good deal and well worth doing ,,benefits heaps of grunt regards oldbiker
 

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