Why is my new fork seal leaking?

The 35-1042 does indicate a seal 34 x 46 x 10.5 per AB. So the next potential issue, given your symptoms is OD to lower tube ID. You may have a 48 ID @ the seal landing requiring seal 35 x 48 x 11 (AB 55-108). Sounds impossible, but that's what I found on the CB750K1
Did your undersized seals fit snuggly inside your forks?
 
Yes, from your description, you have a serious problem that is rather unique. Not knowing the entire history of the bike, I'm suggesting verifying the correctness of all parts involved in keeping oil where it's supposed to be.
Well everything seems normal and the internals are the one year only 76 guts....and matching both sides. Scratching my head?
 
The seals should be tight enough in the bore that they need to be driven in.
Any rust spots/divots in the chrome tubes, are they straight? Guess one check would be to remove the snap rings and metal spacers.
Roll the bike to say a fast walk and grab the front brake hard. Do the seals raise up or pop out of the lower tube:yikes:?
Another possibility would be someone sanded damaged seal bores til they were oversize. or the lower got damaged/squeezed till the bores weren't round.
When forks are apart before the seals go in they should be checked that the chrome tubes aren't sloppy in the lower's bushings.
Over the years and many bikes through the shed of ill repute, I've seen almost all of the above one or more times.
 
Did your undersized seals fit snuggly inside your forks?
I had to use a seal driver to bed them, but it only took one tap of the hammer IIRC. Had to pry them out with a seal puller (they wedge cockeyed). Correct seals took much more force to install. I'm just suggesting measuring the lower tube ID to verify. The oil is being forced past the seal somehow
 
Perhaps oddly, inexpensive pyramid parts seals seem to work fine/great.
I use Tungsten Disulfide (WS2) on the dry rubber then some lithium soap grease packed between the lips when installing seals.
 
I had to use a seal driver to bed them, but it only took one tap of the hammer IIRC. Had to pry them out with a seal puller (they wedge cockeyed). Correct seals took much more force to install. I'm just suggesting measuring the lower tube ID to verify. The oil is being forced past the seal somehow

Will do all of the above, when I come down from this Pissy Mood.
 
While we don't often see straightened fork tubes in the US if that's been done thay aren't always round. the bent area now more of an oval.
 
After another looksie, puddling was a bit exagerated, oil was present with more on the brake side but not truly puddled. With a sharp pointer, I can spin the retainer ring, which I questioned once before.
Do you think I will be able to tell anything if I roll it like Gary said, hit the front brake and look for oil activity?

Doesn't it somewhat prove that the seals are secure in the lowers because the retaining ring has free movement? If the OD of the seals were too small, wouldn't they slowly ride up the tubes thus hitting and riding against the retaining rings therefore limiting their ability to spin?
 
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Any idea what size the fork side drain screw is?
I'm considering draining some more oil and would like to see if there is a screw in hollow tube like a jet, available that I can attach a line and catch can to, vs trying to contain the explosion.
 
Any idea what size the fork side drain screw is?
I'm considering draining some more oil and would like to see if there is a screw in hollow tube like a jet, available that I can attach a line and catch can to, vs trying to contain the explosion.
Should just be a JIS #2 iirc
 
In my case, my tubes are a little bent, which makes them leak a little even though the seals are new, they changed them twice before they knew it.
I only share my case.
 
Thanks guys, I got some jets and hooked them up to a small clear line, put the jets into the fork lowers, and let out some oil. I might try to make a better set up with a longer, hollowed out M4 bolt, sealed up with clear line and extract all oil, then with a syringe, put back 5 OZ thus, somewhat matching the factory spec without having take off the caps and fill the recommended way.
 
Thanks guys, I got some jets and hooked them up to a small clear line, put the jets into the fork lowers, and let out some oil. I might try to make a better set up with a longer, hollowed out M4 bolt, sealed up with clear line and extract all oil, then with a syringe, put back 5 OZ thus, somewhat matching the factory spec without having take off the caps and fill the recommended way.
That may not work as intended, as the air above the oil surface needs to be bled off. Just remove the caps like everyone else do.
 
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