Worth it to change fork seals?

[ryamatt]

I bought new fork seals for my 34mm front end, but the old ones are such a %$tch to get out, I was wondering just how necessary it is to change them. If they are in there so tight, they must still be sealing the forks just fine. (?)

The current forks I have weren't leaking, they were just sitting in a barn for 15 years so I figured for a few bucks I might as well put in new seals. The dust boots, washer and clip were not in very good condition and will also need to be replaced. I found a nicer set of forks this weekend that I will likely use instead, but it is the same situation - I have new seals on hand, but the old ones are such a pain to remove, is it worth it to put in new seals just for the sake of being "new"?

 

[jd750ace]

Pretty much guarantee they will start leaking when you start riding it. Change them up front. The fork oil is probably no better than pond water, and the springs are probably sacked out too. If you cut the corners now they'll show up later.

 

[Sgt Hollywood]

Simple answer, yes change them.

Seals have always been hit or miss removal wise for me. You never know it might be the easiest job you'll ever get. Could be the worse too...

 

[5twins]

I change them as needed. My 650 is running on one new seal, one that came in it. Same with one of my BMWs, one leaked so it was replaced, the other is still original and still sealing fine. You won't really know if your seals are any good until you start riding the bike. It's a simple matter to pull one fork leg at a time out of the trees and replace it's seal if need be.

 

[DogBunny]

the old ones are such a %$tch to get out

I struggled and struggled with fork seals, then I bit the bullet and bought a seal remover, about $10-15, available at any auto store. Buy a seal remover.

 

[gggGary]

This works fine, pops them right out. Clamping the tire spoon in a vice is a major leverage aid. Any old chunk of aluminum so the lower doesn't get dented.
warm the dust seal with a hair dryer makes it much easier to remove

dig under and pop out the retaining ring then the flat metal ring, that exposes the seal

This can be any piece of stiff steel but a tire iron is near perfect for the job. Note a chunk of aluminum to protect the fork tube from damage. You WILL damage the fork tube lip if you don't have some aluminum in there!

Won't hurt to heat up the tube a bit before trying to remove, the seal is usually stuck in there pretty darned tight.

The old seal gets destroyed during removal. pry, turn a bit, pry some more.

All out and pretty!

dust seal retaining ring flat steel ring then the seal.


Please don't ask how many seals I had done before I figured this out. I busted my cheap harbor fright seal remover.


Easy removal 101, just thought of and tried this today, duh, I've only removed about 50 seals in my shop.
Hit it with rust buster what ever, Pick a large socket say something over 1", flat side down hammer the socket around the seal a few times. then use any of the tools suggested around the forum or the one I show above. seal will come out MUCH easier because you have loosened the seal's grip on the fork tube.

 

[Bigfeet]

I hope I can remember that tip when I change mine. I usually do things the hard way thinking "I know I saw a easier way somewhere"

 

[Royboy]

Here is my quick and easy kit for seal removal. Disassemble fork legs. Drop the 3/4" x 12" hardwood dowel into the lower fork leg. Use small (6") prybar's "J" end to pry out the seal from below using the end of the dowel as a fulcrum. No dings, no dents, no sweat. I drive the new seal in with that short piece of PVC pipe.



roy

 

[Greg]

change them you dont want fork oil on your brakes all i used was a pry bar and a piece of wood to remove and a proper size socet to install was not hard at all

 

[weekendrider]

Hydraulics will work to remove them. Just remember to remove the keepers before you compress them. Right Tom?

 

[ryamatt]

I went all out and bought a seal remover from Princess Auto (the Canadian equivalent to Harbour Freight) for $5. I used a flat metal corner bracket from a shelf to protect the side of the fork while I yanked it out with the tool (similar idea to 5Twins' homemade metal piece).

It took a lot of leverage and only worked if I kept the tool stationary and pushed on the fork, since the fork is longer than the tool's handle, and provided more leverage. Now that I have the right tool, it wasn't that big of a deal.

Thanks for the help guys.