How-To: Permanent Magnet Alternator Swap (Also known as the Banshee Swap)

Hugh, do you need to mount the regulator out in the open for heat reasons, or can you mount it in an electrics box? I have always thought people were hiding them but recently I have been reading a few threads that suggest it will get too hot in a box?
 
Any reg/rec with cooling fins needs to be out in the open. It gets hot, if it didn't it wouldn't have cooling fins.
Leo
 
Hugh, do you need to mount the regulator out in the open for heat reasons, or can you mount it in an electrics box? I have always thought people were hiding them but recently I have been reading a few threads that suggest it will get too hot in a box?

The beauty of the PMA swap, and a Pamco setup, is there really is no need for an electrics box... But yeah, let that sucker stay cool. If you hide it in a box and burn it up, you'll be less than happy about it...
 
I use a heavy paper clip with one end slightly flattened. Slide the flattened end in from the open side where the small slot on the side of the opening is, and it presses down on the holding clip and the wire comes right out.
Leo
 
I use a heavy paper clip with one end slightly flattened. Slide the flattened end in from the open side where the small slot on the side of the opening is, and it presses down on the holding clip and the wire comes right out.
Leo

Ok I don't like electrical but I have all the componets to do the permanent magnent from Punkskaler. A guy with a lot of electrical know how wired the bike from scratch but I don't learn nothing by taking it back to him. I have a Boyer by the way. Old voltage reg has 7 wires. 3 white to stator, green to batt neg, red to batt pos, blue to ign switch, orange to stator. I am going to use the small Triple T battery which is about the size of a pack of smokes. The new V-Reg only has 3 yellow stator wires and a pos and neg wire. What becomes of the old blue wire from ign. switch to VR and the old orange wire from V- Reg to stator? I have no starter, kick only. Will this thing not have an on/off at ign anymore or is it just kick and go? Told ya I don't like electrical.
jefft
 
Your old reg/rec, it worked with the stock stator and rotor? If so, the blue from the ignition was the voltage sensing wire. It told the reg/rec what your battery voltage was. On your new reg/rec with the PMA it wont be used. It could be used for something you want powered just when the switch is on, like an accessory socket.
The orange wire was power to the brushes, the voltage on this wire was controlled by the reg/rec. It "turned on/off " the rotor. It won't be used on your new set up. once you remove the old reg/rec you can remove any wire in between or just leave it. No power will flow in it. You could just cut it off as close to the harness as you can and leave the rest.
You are using a battery, I would use a switch, key or toggle between the battery and the rest of the bike to keep the battery from going dead from the ignition or lights when the engine isn't running. If you use a cap you can just use an engine stop switch to "kill" the engine. Flip the switch "on" then kick and go.
I would leave your wiring intact, just add in the PMA wiring as needed. Three to three and hot to battery +, ground to battery -.
As I have told others, I have little experience with the PMA conversions, I understand them but no hands on experience.
Hugh has done this many times. If I have erred on any of this he can set us straight. Hugh?
Leo
 
I would leave your wiring intact, just add in the PMA wiring as needed. Three to three and hot to battery +, ground to battery -.
As I have told others, I have little experience with the PMA conversions, I understand them but no hands on experience.
Hugh has done this many times. If I have erred on any of this he can set us straight. Hugh?
Leo

That works perfectly...


See, thats where I fall short on these swaps. I don't keep a single bit of the stock wiring harness when I build a bike... I see no point in keeping 30+ year old wiring personally, so I rewire my bikes to suit my purpose... :thumbsup:
 
Well thanks for the answers. It sounds pretty simple like the initial instructions showed. XS Leo you say you would utilize a switch or toggle. I have an ignition switch. The blue wire ran to it. How can I run that wire to use as the on/off and still retain my ignition switch?
jefft
 
Yet another question about the PMA swap. I am reading a few posts about problems with the "triple i" battery not holding a charge. Is the condensor the best bet? Someone mentioned Lowbros had a condensor for this set up. The only condensor on that website I see is a Srarx condensor. Is that the one everyone is using? What works best? I won't be running with lights on in daytime as AZ. is not a lights on all the time state and I don't even ride after dark anymore.
jefft
 
Some one asked earlier how to remove the pins out of the sockets. I use quilting "T" pins. Available at Wal-mart in the crafts section in various sizes. I use them to back probe wires, when troubleshooting circuits, and to remove pins out of ECU and sensor sockets.

t-pins.jpg
 
Yet another question about the PMA swap. I am reading a few posts about problems with the "triple i" battery not holding a charge. Is the condensor the best bet? Someone mentioned Lowbros had a condensor for this set up. The only condensor on that website I see is a Srarx condensor. Is that the one everyone is using? What works best? I won't be running with lights on in daytime as AZ. is not a lights on all the time state and I don't even ride after dark anymore.
jefft

I HAD a tripple i. It sat for 6 months while I finished my build so I never gave it a chance. Voltage was down to 3 and did not want to spend cash for a charger or a new battery. So I ran to FRY's (Best Buy type store) and bought two 25V 10000uf capacitor for $10. Small and works like a charm. Just wire it like you would a battery.
 
Could you confirm what I think you said. It requires 2- 25 volt 10000uf capacitors?
Sorry I am new to capacitors.
jefft
 
Jeff I have a Boyer and I am about to fit two 35,000uf caps at 25 volts. They are dirt cheap on the internet. Good luck. Tony C

P.S. If you run avery small battery it will further stabilize your system.
 
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Thanks TonyC I haven't ever had any dealings with condensors before but do want to go batteryless. Do these condensors have terminals to or are they soldered in place connect to? How are they mounted? I may have to seek out some help on this one. Darned electrics.
jefft
 
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Jeff mine have screw terminals and I plan to suspend them in my battery box. Old British bikes had a spring in which the capacitor was mounted. Not a bad idea. Do an e-bay search for can type capacitors.
 
Sorry 25v 10000uf...... I bought 2 since they were cheap. The one I bought is the non screw type.
 
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