XS2 scrambler build

My strategy was pulling in the decomp lever and as soon as the kick start hits the bottom releasing it. As soon as I get my battery charge I can sit on the bike and give it some harder kicks. I don't feel too comfortable with jumper cables right below my crotch.
 
Update.

My air filters got here and I decided to check the carb bowls again and turns out there was a bit of dirt in the left side. I also got that T connecter I posted a video of and here is where I am at now. I will say it's crazy how quick it starts up for such an old bike.

I had to leave to get my second covid shot so if I am not too tired tonight I will try to adjust the idle and start it again.

 
I watched a video ( advert ) for a product called Shine Pro Rust marketed by Cloudydayday.USA it showed a product that removed rust by spraying on rub with brush if nessary then hose off. Anyone seen or heard of this product it looked good, but you know how these wonder adds go how much do you believe :thumbsdown:
I just thought if it is good it could help with the rusty parts on the XS2 :thumbsup:
 
Center stand tango.... I like that. It definitely needs some rubber feet or something. When I started mine it was all over the garage. No worries i chopped mine off. I'll probably regret it later, but the bike looks so much cleaner without it. But for a scrambler/ cafe bike they look the part.
 
This would be something to look into............I use a local product over here, (Aus), called, lanolin oil..........Fluid film is lanolin oil based and reading all the paraphernalia about it i would say it isn't any different to what i use.........

https://www.fluid-film.com/
 
This would be something to look into............I use a local product over here, (Aus), called, lanolin oil..........Fluid film is lanolin oil based and reading all the paraphernalia about it i would say it isn't any different to what i use.........

https://www.fluid-film.com/
We have a lanolin ( sheep's wool oil ) product as well her in New Zealand and yes it dose do a very good job of stopping rust and preventing it happening but the stuff I mentioned stripped the rust from steel, cleaned up alloy etc so it must be an acid based product I'm thinking.
 
I just got back home. I went out to start the bike and I noticed fuel was gushing out of my overflow tube. I opened up the carb and the float needle wasn't sticking. I put it back together and somehow it stopped leaking. I started the bike and it ran fine I even gave it a couple of revs. I turned it off and flipped the choke ( I don't remember if I had it on or off). When I tried starting it again it made a loud gunshot noise and my right side carb flew off the intake boot.

I opened up the carbs again and there was more dirt/ rust! I am running 2 corkscrew fuel filters and my tank has integrated one. Any Idea where it could the dirt could be coming from? I haven't cleaned them yet since I am way too tired and don't want to keep repeating the same thing.

I will also do some research on the rust removers since I got a lot of rust to remove ;)
 
I will also do some research on the rust removers since I got a lot of rust to remove ;)

i lve on the coast, 1 street back from the sea. using lanolin oil products regulary on existing rust and as a preventative..........it will protect from salt spray and can be used as a water disbursement and can be sprayed on electrical wiring, components and connections. Also use it as a de greaser and on paint as a cleaner polisher.

used on a bike like yours it will stop the rust from traveling and will give it a clean fresh look while retaining the original old look with a gloss
 
Sounds like an intake backfire. As far as the junk in the carb you found after, are you using new fuel line? There might also be some left over crud in the passages of the carb itself. I got the petcocks off my old tank sending them your direction tomorrow.
 
I did get the impression the ignition was a little late on your video but since it started easily I did not mention it
And the bang into the carburetor could be to early.-
But In any case a Strobe light check of the ignition timing is something I would do.
And cleaning at the points ( if you have points )
I newer start with lights on ... a habit since poor charging bikes .
But start up problems is nothing uncommon ... To get the fuel delivery to work again
 
I went to pull my flywheel cover off to check all the timing and the 2 bolts holding it on are stripped. That could be a sign of why it was parked. I have no idea how I am going to get them since they are super rusty.

With the carbs, I think my issue was the fuel line. Once I get them back on the bike I will get a video so you guys cans hear how it sounds now.
 
I went to pull my flywheel cover off to check all the timing and the 2 bolts holding it on are stripped. That could be a sign of why it was parked. I have no idea how I am going to get them since they are super rusty.

With the carbs, I think my issue was the fuel line. Once I get them back on the bike I will get a video so you guys cans hear how it sounds now.


If it is no 7

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Depending on the meaning of stripped .. There are a few methods
If it is the head that is destroyed
There are ways if it is the thread itself other
In this case taking off the whole cover and work from inside can be an option Trying not to destroy the aluminum.
Id try to put oil on it
One could try to drill but please wait with that.
Do you have an Impact Screwdriver in house. ?
 
Even a screwdriver with the handle end capped in metal. Shouldn't have to hit it too hard. Sometimes the impact (taps with a hammer on a screwdriver) let's the corrosion break. Also, the head of the screw sometimes looks like it needs a smaller driver. I stripped a bunch of screws over the years before I realized the smaller tip is too pointy and it doesn't engage well enough. But I find that the avg size screwdriver works on some very small screws. Just have to take your time and be easy with it.
 
Sorry for the late replies. Today has been pretty ruff

I have an impact gun and some adapters that let me put screws on it.
I tried getting one out today just with a screw driver and it fit almost perfectly and the screw still didn't come out.

Also, I think I have an air leak. I attempted to "repair" my intake boots with a ton of rtv silicone. Now when I start the bike my idle is super high and the bike almost centerstaned tangoed right into one of my dad's cars ;).

I looked for XS2 intake boots but could find some for 74 and newer. I found these and they look exactly like mine except they have the brass tube sticking out. Do you think they would work? It says they are for 78 to 80 something.
61shpAk9g3L._AC_SL1001_.jpg


I also tonight plan to order a seat and some new rear shocks for the bike. Those 2 should complete the look of the bike except for the tires which I still haven't chosen what to get.
 
Sorry for the late replies. Today has been pretty ruff

I have an impact gun and some adapters that let me put screws on it.
I tried getting one out today just with a screw driver and it fit almost perfectly and the screw still didn't come out.

Also, I think I have an air leak. I attempted to "repair" my intake boots with a ton of rtv silicone. Now when I start the bike my idle is super high and the bike almost centerstaned tangoed right into one of my dad's cars ;).

I looked for XS2 intake boots but could find some for 74 and newer. I found these and they look exactly like mine except they have the brass tube sticking out. Do you think they would work? It says they are for 78 to 80 something.
View attachment 194129

I also tonight plan to order a seat and some new rear shocks for the bike. Those 2 should complete the look of the bike except for the tires which I still haven't chosen what to get.
Those won’t fit your carburetors. You need manifolds for ‘70 to ‘73.
Keep your shirt on. It’s not time to get a seat or tires…yet. Let’s get it so everything works first.
 
Here's a video of it running. this is choking off. I guess earlier I still had some leftover carb cleaner in the bowl messing up the idle. Since it's running almost perfectly now.


You can kinda see in the video the left side carb is leaking gas. It's has a brand new float and needle so I am guessing my overflow tube might be cracked/ float level is off. I will try running it for longer as soon as I get my battery on there. Also, both exhausts were super hot.
 
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