Look up Vintage connections for the sheathing. Try Sumo Rubber for the grommet. I saw the grommet someplace, but I’m not sure where.
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'75 650B Charging System Guidance Needed
- Thread starter REPETE
- Start date
REPETE
XS650 Addict
Thank you jetmechmarty -
I had looked at Sumo's website picture after picture - with no luck - prior to posting. I'll try again just in case that's where you saw them and I missed them. It did happen with the air box joint rubber at MikesXS. A case of website user navigation failure
I also looked at KDI Reproductions who are mostly all about the Yamaha Enduros. No luck there either.
As for the sheathing. I've probably got it on the shelf from one of my previous projects, but you're definitely right in that Vintage Connections a great source for electrical.
If you do happen to realize where you saw the grommets please post for me.
Thanks so much
I had looked at Sumo's website picture after picture - with no luck - prior to posting. I'll try again just in case that's where you saw them and I missed them. It did happen with the air box joint rubber at MikesXS. A case of website user navigation failure
I also looked at KDI Reproductions who are mostly all about the Yamaha Enduros. No luck there either.
As for the sheathing. I've probably got it on the shelf from one of my previous projects, but you're definitely right in that Vintage Connections a great source for electrical.
If you do happen to realize where you saw the grommets please post for me.
Thanks so much
I also found that grommet impossible to find, this is what I did. You have to read down about halfway in the post.
Post #220
http://www.xs650.com/threads/mailmans-xs2-the-rebuild-again.59075/page-11#post-681933
Post #220
http://www.xs650.com/threads/mailmans-xs2-the-rebuild-again.59075/page-11#post-681933
The dimensions of that grommet are here,
http://www.xs650.com/threads/mailmans-xs2-the-rebuild-again.59075/page-12#post-682099
http://www.xs650.com/threads/mailmans-xs2-the-rebuild-again.59075/page-12#post-682099
REPETE
XS650 Addict
ABSOLUTE PERFECTLY DETAILED ADVICE!
Thank you Mailman!
Not even I can screw this up!
Thank you Mailman!
Not even I can screw this up!
I did a similar grommet job on my motor.ABSOLUTE PERFECTLY DETAILED ADVICE!
Thank you Mailman!
Not even I can screw this up!
I did put a split in it however; so as not having to unpick the connectors in future.
REPETE
XS650 Addict
"I did a similar grommet job on my motor.
I did put a split in it however; so as not having to unpick the connectors in future." - Adamc
I'm going to have the entire stator and harness removed from the bike and will be removing (and replacing with new) the connector body being that I've got to remove it to replace the sheathing - which is hardened like a preformed hose in some spots. I'm not waiting for that to start cracking and while I'm going through the source electrical it only makes sense.
I did put a split in it however; so as not having to unpick the connectors in future." - Adamc
I'm going to have the entire stator and harness removed from the bike and will be removing (and replacing with new) the connector body being that I've got to remove it to replace the sheathing - which is hardened like a preformed hose in some spots. I'm not waiting for that to start cracking and while I'm going through the source electrical it only makes sense.
REPETE
XS650 Addict
Good Morning All -
I've been collecting the needed items needed to put the charging system back together as best possible.
Early on I had bought the the new regulator/rectifier.
Subsequently and with the guidance received here was able to determine that the rotor had gone bad.
That was sent off to Jim... more on that later.
Following Mailman's prompt, I went searching for a grommet to match the dimensions of the one he had used to seal the stator harness between the motor block and the side cover. That proved to be quite a challenge and the closest I came was a grommet with a 3/8" hole designed to be installed in a 5/8" hole in a 3/16" thick plate. All good but the overall outside diameter was 7/8".... Mailman recommended 1". The tiny bit that won't be sealed at two corners (remember that the original is flat sided against the backside of the cover) I'll be able to seal up with a dab of weather-stripping adhesive.
I also indicated that prior to reassembling I was going to replace the harness sleeve and the wire that goes to the neautral indicator switch as well as the rubber neutral switch cap. They're all hard as a rock.
I thought I had what I needed but ultimately I followed Jetmechmarty's suggestion and placed an order with Vintage Connections. I could've used any wire but it was important to me to replace it in kind with the proper color coding.
I'm expecting the Vintage Connections delivery today.
Now - back to the rotor.
As I had said, I took full advantage of Jim's somewhat new rotor rebuilding service. I had fully expected to be waiting weeks and to receive back a rebuilt rotor that still looked "old".
Well, Jim had the rotor back to me in a week's time!
Not only that, but the workmanship is amongst the best I've ever seen!
Take a look at this...
Fella's... it doesn't get any better than this!
Thank you Jim!!!
If anyone has a rotor issue you'd be doing yourself a disservice if you don't take advantage of Jim's services!
Hopefully I'll find sometime one evening this week to correct my harness and reassemble everything.
More to come.
I've been collecting the needed items needed to put the charging system back together as best possible.
Early on I had bought the the new regulator/rectifier.
Subsequently and with the guidance received here was able to determine that the rotor had gone bad.
That was sent off to Jim... more on that later.
Following Mailman's prompt, I went searching for a grommet to match the dimensions of the one he had used to seal the stator harness between the motor block and the side cover. That proved to be quite a challenge and the closest I came was a grommet with a 3/8" hole designed to be installed in a 5/8" hole in a 3/16" thick plate. All good but the overall outside diameter was 7/8".... Mailman recommended 1". The tiny bit that won't be sealed at two corners (remember that the original is flat sided against the backside of the cover) I'll be able to seal up with a dab of weather-stripping adhesive.
I also indicated that prior to reassembling I was going to replace the harness sleeve and the wire that goes to the neautral indicator switch as well as the rubber neutral switch cap. They're all hard as a rock.
I thought I had what I needed but ultimately I followed Jetmechmarty's suggestion and placed an order with Vintage Connections. I could've used any wire but it was important to me to replace it in kind with the proper color coding.
I'm expecting the Vintage Connections delivery today.
Now - back to the rotor.
As I had said, I took full advantage of Jim's somewhat new rotor rebuilding service. I had fully expected to be waiting weeks and to receive back a rebuilt rotor that still looked "old".
Well, Jim had the rotor back to me in a week's time!
Not only that, but the workmanship is amongst the best I've ever seen!
Take a look at this...
Fella's... it doesn't get any better than this!
Thank you Jim!!!
If anyone has a rotor issue you'd be doing yourself a disservice if you don't take advantage of Jim's services!
Hopefully I'll find sometime one evening this week to correct my harness and reassemble everything.
More to come.
Last edited:
REPETE
XS650 Addict
Issue Resolved!
Rotor by Jim was perfect!
I followed through with replacing the stator harness sleeve and the neutral switch wire along with all new spade connectors. Also, early on before proper diagnosis I installed a new electronic regulator/rectifier.
I do shy away from wiring and soldering, but I got through it and am pleased with the outcome... not only that it works but the entire exercise turned out as well as anyone could expect.
Jim's work above in post #28
My humble wiring here....
Here's the charging results at 1k rpm idle....
Here's the charging performance at +/- 2k rpm and above....
Success & a big thank you to those guiding me.
Rotor by Jim was perfect!
I followed through with replacing the stator harness sleeve and the neutral switch wire along with all new spade connectors. Also, early on before proper diagnosis I installed a new electronic regulator/rectifier.
I do shy away from wiring and soldering, but I got through it and am pleased with the outcome... not only that it works but the entire exercise turned out as well as anyone could expect.
Jim's work above in post #28
My humble wiring here....
Here's the charging results at 1k rpm idle....
Here's the charging performance at +/- 2k rpm and above....
Success & a big thank you to those guiding me.
Job well done, congratulations! 
Idle volts is high too. I suspect the meter is off by a volt.
REPETE
XS650 Addict
Issue Resolution Apparently On Temporary Hiatus 
Hmm
Well, I do have a second (older) multi-meter I can use to verify my readings. It'll need to wait till an upcoming evening b/c I'm in Florida and it's just too friggin' hot to futz around with it midday!
If the second readings match I'm not sure what can be done other than trying to get the vendor I bought the regulator from to replace it.
Being that it's electronic there's no adjustment.
Soo.... more to come.
Hmm
Well, I do have a second (older) multi-meter I can use to verify my readings. It'll need to wait till an upcoming evening b/c I'm in Florida and it's just too friggin' hot to futz around with it midday!
If the second readings match I'm not sure what can be done other than trying to get the vendor I bought the regulator from to replace it.
Being that it's electronic there's no adjustment.
Soo.... more to come.
If I was a betting man, I'd put my money on the meter being a volt too high.
REPETE
XS650 Addict
Jim - you were correct about the rotor and I'll certainly be hoping you're correct about the meter.
More to come.
More to come.
Not to overthink things but could be interesting to get a reading across the battery key off engine and other things off.
With the same meter.
Then turn the key see what it goes down to.
I think the meter looks fine could have fooled me ..Can there be a battery inside the meter that is weak
I know that I have replaced in my meters
With the same meter.
Then turn the key see what it goes down to.
I think the meter looks fine could have fooled me ..Can there be a battery inside the meter that is weak
I know that I have replaced in my meters
Yes, I usually see mid 12's at idle (headlight off) and mid 14's when revved on both mine. If I turn the headlight on, that can knock almost a volt off at idle. It doesn't seem to have much of an effect when revved.
REPETE
XS650 Addict
Ran a couple of tests tonight
First though, I checked the batteries in the newer meter as Jan_P mentioned - the meter Jim thought might be off. They were fine.
Using two meters (new and old) I took readings at the battery with ignition off.
New meter: 13.04 V
Old meter: 13.08 V
Then I turned the key on - but nothing else - and experienced something I wasn't expecting, but could be perfectly normal
I watched in the digits on the meter counting down and was wondering if they'd ever stop. When the voltage drop activity leveled off I got the following readings:
New Meter 11.81 V
Old Meter 11.9 V
Then I started it and took readings which remained consistent with those reported yesterday. In fact, just a bit higher.
Both meters were reading mid 13's at low rpm and mid 15's at +/- 2k rpm.
I had hopes that the issue would be the meter but it isn't looking that way.
I'm thinking it may be the electronic regulator.
First though, I checked the batteries in the newer meter as Jan_P mentioned - the meter Jim thought might be off. They were fine.
Using two meters (new and old) I took readings at the battery with ignition off.
New meter: 13.04 V
Old meter: 13.08 V
Then I turned the key on - but nothing else - and experienced something I wasn't expecting, but could be perfectly normal
I watched in the digits on the meter counting down and was wondering if they'd ever stop. When the voltage drop activity leveled off I got the following readings:
New Meter 11.81 V
Old Meter 11.9 V
Then I started it and took readings which remained consistent with those reported yesterday. In fact, just a bit higher.
Both meters were reading mid 13's at low rpm and mid 15's at +/- 2k rpm.
I had hopes that the issue would be the meter but it isn't looking that way.
I'm thinking it may be the electronic regulator.
In my rotor thread, there's a video on how to test the rectifier. Towards the end of the video is a quick blurb on checking battery voltage (through the ignition switch) down at the regulator. Do that and tell us what the voltage reads?
We're looking to see how much of a voltage drop you're getting across the switch.
