It's time to start a winter Project. The Red Bike

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My gosh, theres a tool you dont see a lot of folks use (Speed Handle). Especially if they havent had a background in the aircraft world.
:doh::yikes:
In 1987 I was assigned a field rep job at Canadian Forces Base, Cold Lake Alberta. My 1976 BMW 2002 needed an engine rebuild. I went to the Sears Order store and ordered a 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 inch socket tool kit. That speed handle was part of the kit. Still have all the sockets (except the 4 10mm, 1/4 and 3/8 deep and standard). The motor got a lumpy cam, compression, head work, exhaust work, e-ignition and a lightened flywheel. Assembled on my apartment living room floor.
 
View attachment 245165
My gosh, theres a tool you dont see a lot of folks use (Speed Handle). Especially if they havent had a background in the aircraft world.

I have soooo many miles operating one of those! Removing entire upper wing panels off of F-117 Stealth Fighters with hundreds and hundreds of aluminum screws in them (with Torx bits no less).

Also been smacked in the face by more than one on lower side of an F-15 Eagle or two when removing panels with those stupid coin slot fasteners in them! The bit slips while youre applying torque upon removal or installation and wham...right in the face! :doh::yikes:
Falls under "If I had a nickel......"

"Hot Gun Line." Down at Eglin.... I once fought off 2 (count 'em) pissed off hornets with nothing more than a speed handle. Think rapier... without the flex. Killed 'em both, lost the bit and bit holder... and managed to ground 2 F-15's, 2 F-4's and an F-111 for a "lost tool" incident.
Ah... the good ol' days..... :sneaky: :rolleyes:
 
And it never ends... I did a preliminary set of the exhaust. The P-clamps that mount the head pipes to the frame need 1/4"- 3/8" spacers to keep the muffs outside the axle nut. Shouldered bolts are the hot ticket for pushing the clamp together. 12mm bolts and a washer or 2 make a cheap spacer.View attachment 245144View attachment 245146
With that spacer in (~1/4") the brake pedal will hit the pipe. I loosened all the joints, then removed the spacer and reassembled. Plenty of brake pedal clearance now.
 
And it never ends... I did a preliminary set of the exhaust. The P-clamps that mount the head pipes to the frame need 1/4"- 3/8" spacers to keep the muffs outside the axle nut. Shouldered bolts are the hot ticket for pushing the clamp together. 12mm bolts and a washer or 2 make a cheap spacer.View attachment 245144View attachment 245146

With that spacer in (~1/4") the brake pedal will hit the pipe. I loosened all the joints, then removed the spacer and reassembled. Plenty of brake pedal clearance now.
Maybe ya don't need that P-clamp on the header pipe; the muffler mount brkt to the passenger peg bolt may be sufficient?:shrug:
 
Maybe ya don't need that P-clamp on the header pipe; the muffler mount brkt to the passenger peg bolt may be sufficient?:shrug:
I don't disagree but I do want a solid mount for thinwall headers to long muffs. The P-clamp locks the front of the muffler in place so both muffler tips should be at the same level and distance apart from the rear wheel. I would hate to be the subject of a "crooked mufflers" thread like we've seen "crooked seats..."
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I can`t believe I missed that seat. That does it. I`m going to start a Crooked Seat thread. There seem`s to be a never ending supply of crooked seats on CL and FB lately.
 
A piece of aluminum stock and a hose clamp have been on the job for thousands of miles
KIMG3957.JPG
 
I don't like the idea of the whole exhaust system hanging from just two connection points, one at each end (the head and the muffler mount). The factory saw fit to put another attachment point in the middle and I like to utilize that using a P clamp. I "roll my own" from stainless strap .....

83P-ClampFab.jpg


83P-ClampFab2.jpg


And a little polishing when it's done makes it look nice .....

83P-ClampDone.jpg


83P-ClampDone2.jpg


I usually find the pipe and clamp need to be spaced away from the frame a little bit, and one thick washer normally does the trick.
 
The pipe doesn't have the upsweep I was hoping for but I won't know until it is on the ground. Next is front brake line routing. I left it outside the headlight bracket to avoid chaff.
It will be a fun day to do a Mother's wipe down to see the black, red and alloy shine in the sunlight. I should mount the front fender now that brake bleeding is complete
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I run my brake line down in between the headlight ears and behind the headlight bucket ......

MCFront.jpg


Then I route it over the front of the lower triple tree and bolt on a guide for it where the original splitter block was .....

LineGuide.jpg


LineGuide2.jpg


Then it runs down to the caliper, no guide needed at the fender mount like the original had .....

BrakeLine.jpg


Yes, the current 1.5" headpipes most places sell don't sweep up very much, not like the MAC set I put on my '78 many years back. They are just perfect, the mufflers run high enough to clear the rear axle but low enough to allow mounting bags. I may attempt to bend my new ones a little to get more up-sweep. But I've got to mod my pipe bender, put some pads on it so it doesn't dimple the pipe. I'll be sure to share the details when I get around to doing it.
 
I run my brake line down in between the headlight ears and behind the headlight bucket ......

View attachment 245281

Then I route it over the front of the lower triple tree and bolt on a guide for it where the original splitter block was .....

View attachment 245282

View attachment 245283

Then it runs down to the caliper, no guide needed at the fender mount like the original had .....

View attachment 245284

Yes, the current 1.5" headpipes most places sell don't sweep up very much, not like the MAC set I put on my '78 many years back. They are just perfect, the mufflers run high enough to clear the rear axle but low enough to allow mounting bags. I may attempt to bend my new ones a little to get more up-sweep. But I've got to mod my pipe bender, put some pads on it so it doesn't dimple the pipe. I'll be sure to share the details when I get around to doing it.
I did similar on my Tracker but my configuration is different on the Red Bike and I want to keep the brake line away from the "Red by @Jim" paint so inside the head light ears is out. I will carefully watch this as I lower the bike and might reconsider.
 
I am seeing progress. My speedo mount is roughed out and seems to fit. Digital tach and voltmeter. I may do another someday with the speedo closer to center and the digital displays stacked. The taillight bracket came out compact. The license plate carrier needs drilling
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and corners finished.
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