Ì am not sure why I mounted the tach instead of speedo. I'll have to mull over that whilst sipping a whiskey.I am seeing progress. My speedo mount is roughed out and seems to fit. Digital tach and voltmeter. I may do another someday with the speedo closer to center and the digital displays stacked. The taillight bracket came out compact. The license plate carrier needs drilling View attachment 246081View attachment 246082View attachment 246083and corners finished.View attachment 246080
Race bikes don't use a speedo??Ì am not sure why I mounted the tach instead of speedo. I'll have to mull over that whilst sipping a whiskey.
I rarely go beyond 5000 or 5500 rpm on my 750 cc XS. The tach is more fore idle speed setting, charging system checks and speedo calibration. Now where is that gear vs rpm vs road speed chart. I may actually add a digital tach to my tracker because the after market speedo vs phone GPS always seemed wonky.Race bikes don't use a speedo??
Hope I can do it in less than a year.Found a nice 81 Special 2. PO did some nice things with a very original 17k miles bike. I will have to resolve an oil puddle, jetting, frontbrake after doing a few basic tasks. Valves, time chain and timing once the carb (brand new VMs) are jetted well enough to run with out the enricher.View attachment 221555
Do I use a sealant on holes drilled in new paint?Tale and mark centerline. View attachment 246126
Mark Olathe holder holes , drill, fit.View attachment 246127
The pattern isn't perfect but will be hidden by the plate. Perfect amount of fender tip exposed showing stripe.
Debur the edges and put a little primer on the edges. I just use a q-tip dipped in primer.Do I use a sealant on holes drilled in new paint?
Debur... ? With this? Top and bottom (outer and inner) I presume. I hope that my mounts are so close to the fender frame mount that I avoid some silly resonance problems.Debur the edges and put a little primer on the edges. I just use a q-tip dipped in primer.
IMPORTANT: there's lots of vibration back there for some reason.... .... if you don't debur those holes, I can promise you a crack starts at (at least) one of 'em.
I have not put 12v to it yet. Advertised as 28 LED ATV/Dirtbike "Stop/Taillight. I searched for a "Lucas style" taillight but none filled the short front to back dimension needed to "show off" the stripe of the @Jim paint job. My hope is the brake light is plenty bright. Let me say here that this paint job captures my idea of a "Classic 60s/70s vertical twin". My mindset is Norton, AJS,Ariel etc. I briefly considered no Yamaha emblem on the tank but I think the chrome "Yamaha" adds to the overall effect.That’s a nice minimalist tail light.
Yes, that's a deburring bit. Cracks seek out sharp edges. The smoother you make the holes, the less chance of a crack finding a sharp edge to latch onto.Debur... ? With this? Top and bottom (outer and inner) I presume. I hope that my mounts are so close to the fender frame mount that I avoid some silly resonance problems.View attachment 246140
Using that countersink tool might leave you with a beveled blade edge; not good.Debur... ? With this? Top and bottom (outer and inner) I presume. I hope that my mounts are so close to the fender frame mount that I avoid some silly resonance problems.View attachment 246140
I am doing neoprene washers between the mounted (painted) parts and the fender washers on the backside with nylock nuts. Thanks for re enforcing my thinking. I want no possibility of contact, metal to painted that could spiderweb to a paint failure.You might also consider some rubber sheeting between the brackets and fender, and then use nylock nuts on the bolts so you can make them tight enough but not too tight.