1980 Xs650 special 2 issues running right

Holloway321

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So I have a 1980 xs650 special 2 that I'm trying to get roadworthy and I'm having issues with running. It will idle great but when I rev it out or ride it down the road it sputters and doesn't run right in the top end. It also tends to stall easy right off the bottom as you leave a stop sign. I put a new battery in it a while ago but it doesn't take much starting for it to loose charge. I'm wondering if this is a charging issue.
 
Sounds like a fuel mixture issue to me.
Is the bike stock, stock air filter?
was it running correct before and now its doing this or this is your first attempt to get it running right?
Clean carbs recently? If so, detail what you did and any parts changes.
 
Sounds like a fuel mixture issue to me.
Is the bike stock, stock air filter?
was it running correct before and now its doing this or this is your first attempt to get it running right?
Clean carbs recently? If so, detail what you did and any parts changes.
We've been working on it at random for a few years now and it's never been fully right. It was my grandpa's and he gave it to my dad and then my dad gave it to me. It ran great until my dad parked it so it hasn't really been on the road since the early 2000s. We have cleaned the carbs and synced them. It's a stock air filter. I don't have cheap pods on there. The only mod that's been done is mufflers. I know my dad put a stator in it at one point. Like I said above I have put a battery in it. I'm trying to build a street tracker but I want to get it running right before I spend the money to finish it cosmetically.
 
The mentor I learned the most from had a saying.... "never underestimate the ignitions ability to fool you into blaming the carbs."
If you tore into a carb for a rough running engine without making sure your ignition was solid, you were likely to catch a boot in your ass.

Ignition depends on a good battery and charging system. You really should start there.
 
The mentor I learned the most from had a saying.... "never underestimate the ignitions ability to fool you into blaming the carbs."
If you tore into a carb for a rough running engine without making sure your ignition was solid, you were likely to catch a boot in your ass.

Ignition depends on a good battery and charging system. You really should start there.
Yeah me and my dad are leaning towards the ignition but it had sat so long so we just went ahead and did the carbs.
 
Alright so I just got the chance to get it out and do the voltage test and I got 14.5 ish at 3k rpm.
That's good. When was the last time the plugs were changed? How about the plug caps?
As others said above, there's a good possibility it's the carbs, but let's do all we can to verify ignition first.
You have a manual.... the Yamaha one? There's procedures in it for testing most of the TCI components.
I'd try replacing the plugs and caps for starters, then move on to testing.
 
That's good. When was the last time the plugs were changed? How about the plug caps?
As others said above, there's a good possibility it's the carbs, but let's do all we can to verify ignition first.
You have a manual.... the Yamaha one? There's procedures in it for testing most of the TCI components.
I'd try replacing the plugs and caps for starters, then move on to testing.
I replaced the plugs pretty recently. It was a few months ago.
 
That's good. When was the last time the plugs were changed? How about the plug caps?
As others said above, there's a good possibility it's the carbs, but let's do all we can to verify ignition first.
You have a manual.... the Yamaha one? There's procedures in it for testing most of the TCI components.
I'd try replacing the plugs and caps for starters, then move on to testing.
With me getting good good voltage to the battery and having good spark plugs do you think that it is still likely for it to be a charging issue or are you leaning towards carb problems?
 
With me getting good good voltage to the battery and having good spark plugs do you think that it is still likely for it to be a charging issue or are you leaning towards carb problems?
Just so we're all on the same page... there's carburation, ignition and charging... three separate systems.
You're getting about 14.5v when revved. That says charging is OK. We can eliminate charging.
Now we need to eliminate one of the remaining two. And of the two, ignition would be the easier to eliminate as a source of the problem.
So I'm leaning toward ignition for that reason... it's the easier.

You replaced the plugs. Any particular reason, or jus' because? The caps? Manual?
Another favorite saying from my old boss.... "The first place to look, is the last place you worked on."
Was it running good before? What have you done 'tween then and now? More answers... we need more answers man. :wink2:

Troubleshooting without touching and hearing can be pretty hard. Can you shoot a video of the misfiring and put it up here?
 
Just so we're all on the same page... there's carburation, ignition and charging... three separate systems.
You're getting about 14.5v when revved. That says charging is OK. We can eliminate charging.
Now we need to eliminate one of the remaining two. And of the two, ignition would be the easier to eliminate as a source of the problem.
So I'm leaning toward ignition for that reason... it's the easier.

You replaced the plugs. Any particular reason, or jus' because? The caps? Manual?
Another favorite saying from my old boss.... "The first place to look, is the last place you worked on."
Was it running good before? What have you done 'tween then and now? More answers... we need more answers man. :wink2:

Troubleshooting without touching and hearing can be pretty hard. Can you shoot a video of the misfiring and put it up here?
Ok sorry let me explain everything better. This bike was my grandpa's, then my dad's, now it's mine. My dad parked it in the early 2000s and it hasn't been on the road since then. The past few years me and my dad have tinkered with the bike trying to get it running right. It's pretty much stock other than aftermarket mufflers. Stock airfilters. Stock motor. The things we have done to try to get it to run right are clean the carbs and a carb kit, synced the carbs the best we could, replaced the plugs, and changed the battery. The bike will start up and once it warms up there is no stumble when you rev it. It's only when I ride it down the road that it stumbles on the top end. I can't take a video because it doesn't do it without being ridden. I don't think we have a manual I'll have to check. We didn't replace the spark plug caps we didn't see an issue with those. If there's anything else that you need to know just ask me.
 
We're trying to verify that the ignition system (spark) is functioning properly before you go into the carbs again. Sounds like your plugs are OK, being almost new, but what about the spark plug caps? Are they the originals? They can go bad, or just come loose on the wire. Either could cause your bad running. Pull a cap off it's plug, grab the spark plug wire, and tug on the cap. If it comes off in your hand, you've found a loose and probably poor connection. The spark plug cap "screws" onto the plug wire. If you look into the end of the cap that fits on the wire, you'll see what looks like the threaded portion of a wood screw in there. That "screws" into the end of the plug wire. With a cap removed, measure the resistance through it. Yamaha used a rather oddball rating of 8K or 9K ohms. When a cap goes bad, that starts to climb (10K, 12K, etc.). Eventually it will start choking off the spark.

When you go to install the cap, cut about 1/4" to 3/8" off the end of the wire first to get to some fresh wire. Then strip maybe 1/8" to 3/16" off the insulation and fan the strands of the wire out in a radial pattern like so ......

Plug Wire End.jpg


Then you can "screw" the cap back on. I like to add a little silicone dielectric grease to the end of the wire and on the ends of the cap where the rubber boots fit to help waterproof the connection and cap ......

PlugCapGrease.jpg
 
It's only when I ride it down the road that it stumbles on the top end.
Define top end... 5k revs... 7500? I assume you also mean at full throttle? Try backing off the throttle "slightly" as soon as the stumble. Did it get any better?
Aftermarket carb kits are notorious for having the wrong bits.... especially the jets. Did you match the jets (by number) as you replaced 'em? If not, odds are you put the wrong jets in.
You said aftermarket pipes. That usually calls for upping the main and pilot jets a number or two.... so that could be the problem.
Did you keep the old jets?
 
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We're trying to verify that the ignition system (spark) is functioning properly before you go into the carbs again. Sounds like your plugs are OK, being almost new, but what about the spark plug caps? Are they the originals? They can go bad, or just come loose on the wire. Either could cause your bad running. Pull a cap off it's plug, grab the spark plug wire, and tug on the cap. If it comes off in your hand, you've found a loose and probably poor connection. The spark plug cap "screws" onto the plug wire. If you look into the end of the cap that fits on the wire, you'll see what looks like the threaded portion of a wood screw in there. That "screws" into the end of the plug wire. With a cap removed, measure the resistance through it. Yamaha used a rather oddball rating of 8K or 9K ohms. When a cap goes bad, that starts to climb (10K, 12K, etc.). Eventually it will start choking off the spark.

When you go to install the cap, cut about 1/4" to 3/8" off the end of the wire first to get to some fresh wire. Then strip maybe 1/8" to 3/16" off the insulation and fan the strands of the wire out in a radial pattern like so ......

View attachment 325329

Then you can "screw" the cap back on. I like to add a little silicone dielectric grease to the end of the wire and on the ends of the cap where the rubber boots fit to help waterproof the connection and cap ......

View attachment 325330
As far as I know they are stock caps and wires. I'll get to around to checking those things at some point this week.
 
Yamaha manuals.
 

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Define top end... 5k revs... 7500? I assume you also mean at full throttle? Try backing off the throttle "slightly" as soon as the stumble. Did it get any better?
Aftermarket carb kits are notorious for have the wrong bits.... especially the jets. Did you match the jets (by number) as you replaced 'em? If not, odds are you put the wrong jets in.
You said aftermarket pipes. That usually calls for upping the main and pilot jets a number or two.... so that could be the problem.
Did you keep the old jets?
It's been around a year ago that we did the carb kit but if I remember right we didn't change the jets we just cleaned it and put new gaskets. When I rode it down the road it pulled good through mid range and but once I got to full throttle it would sputter and run bad. Once I would drop back down in rpms it would smooth out. It also will blow smoke out when you rev it that smells like gas. The smoke goes away some once it's warmed up.
 
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