1971 Build for Dad


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Ozark, MO
This post will document the completion of an XS1B restomod. To anyone new to this thread, I am finishing this bike as a tribute to my Dad who passed away from pancreatic cancer in late 2020. He had two bikes in progress - a 1980 that I recently “finished” and this 1971. Of the two, he was far more invested in the XS1B and I plan to take my time and finish this with the same attention to detail that he had already put into the project.

I am starting with a rebuilt engine in a freshly powder-coated frame with the major components of the chassis installed:


The first order of business was to get the bike from Dad’s shop into my own. Luckily, he had already rebuilt the wheels and they were more-or-less ready to be installed. I also had to install the side stand and center stand to keep it upright once on the ground:


I am going to have a pretty good-looking fleet once I get this finished! @MaxPete, I feel like I need to name them! Once on the ground, I ended up pushing it over to my house. When Dad retired Mom insisted that they be close for the grandkids and close turned out to be real close, about two blocks away. Think “Everybody Loves Raymond”…


After getting it home I stared at it for a good long while wondering where to begin… I found lots of parts for the rear brakes sitting around, so that’s where I started. Dad was an amazing machinist and homemade parts are always a key part of his projects. I have a limited knowledge of how to run a lathe and mill, but have learned the basics from Dad in the past couple of years and plan to continue practicing, so I made some clevis pins and barrels out of stainless steel for the brake linkage:




Looking at the project as a whole, this is not intended to be a traditional restoration by any means. That being said, I am going to do my best to keep the appearance of a stock bike. I discovered that the engine is an ’82 as I know he wanted an electric starter (and I do, too). I think the biggest challenge will be wiring this beast, which is not something that I have much experience with. I’m not sure Dad had even planned out the whole system. On his bench I found parts for points, a standard igniter, and a couple of GN250 igniters for the Gonzo mod (very cool project by the way). He also had purchased new switch blocks that are from later models and was in the middle of constructing a custom electronics bay that is going to rule out using the stock air boxes. So… I have some decisions to make. Any feedback on electrical components/systems would be appreciated. I plan to draw a custom wiring diagram before I begin, perhaps someone would be kind enough to review it for me?!

The other big tasks will be painting the tank and rebuilding the speedo/tach. The gauges are in need of some help in a bad way. @Mailman and @TwoManyXS1Bs, you did an AWESOME job with your gauges. It looks like quite the undertaking to do it right. In the meantime, I am going to chip away at other systems on the bike, plenty to do. Will keep you all posted!
Looks like you're missing the dust seals over the swingarm bushings. Not sure if your Dad made his own bushings to fit, but the seals also act as shims for side to side play.


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Looks like you're missing the dust seals over the swingarm bushings
Good catch! Glad that was discovered before I got too much further... I believe I know of the starter you are talking about.

Nice work with the stainless steel.
Thanks, I have to admit I turned one out of brass first for practice, so much more forgiving..
This is what I came up with as far as a wiring diagram. I started with jayel's 1974 TX650A diagram and deleted the components not on my bike, while adding in the electronic ignition and a couple more fuses. I am going to keep a stock electronic ignition as it is what I am most familiar with. Any feedback would be appreciated as I am a little out of my wheel house here. My experience with electronics is mostly with PCBs/microcontrollers and I just follow cookbook-like instructions.


My main concerns:
1) Are the fuses in a sensible position?
2) Are the electronic ignition components spliced in correctly?
3) Are there any ways to make this less complicated/more efficient?
4) Am I missing any necessary components (e.g. relays, light reserve, etc...)
4) Will anything catch on fire?

One quibble; the red/yel out of the iggy sw is now fused, the brown coming out is now fused and the red going in is (was) fused. The blue coming out to the taillight and indicator back-lighting is not fused. If the taillight (for instance) were to short out, it would blow the 20A main.... and you'd be walking. Of course, that wire is only used when you turn the key to the "Park" position iirc.... so it's kinda moot if you never go there. Still, might be worth adding a 5A or so there.... just to hedge your bets.
Just noticed.... your 10A on the brown needs to be moved. Where it's currently at, it's not protecting all of the components powered by the brown.... only those that go right at the splice. Left side of splice isn't fused as you show it.

I would think about utilizing one of the gonzo boxes. Known to work and much easier to replace if it fails. All the Yamaha TCI boxes are at or near there 40th birthday and are analog devices that depend on RC constants to function properly. 40 years is a very long life for capacitors.
Are you planning a custom wiring loom of a prefab ?

I think it's great you are able to finish your dad's projects. I lost my dad when I was very young and have been trying to locate one pf his race cars (H-Mod) for a number of years with no luck.

There is a rule for this. Fuses should be as close to the source as possible, as opposed to the load. That means closer to the battery or generator than the device or devices you're powering. This as an FYI.
That's true in it's purist form Marty. However, compromises need to be made... such as accessibility.... which is why the 4 fuse models were all located on to of the battery... easily accessible.
With ignition On you have constant power to the alternator field winding and the regulator is switching the Green ground wire. This is what you see with the XS Specials but not for a 71 alternator. I cannot remember if you are going to modify the brushes i.e. de-earth with Nylon screws so you can use the A Type regulator.
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I cannot remember if you are going to modify the brushes i.e. de-earth with Nylon screws so you can use the A Type regulator.
It's my understanding Paul that he's installing an 80+ TCI capable stator, so he can go either way with the regulator... A or B type without the nylon screw mod.
Another.... the 10A circled in red isn't needed because that line is already fused by the 10A circled in blue.

Here's another change I'd make.... as it's currently drawn, the brown wire powers multiple systems... including the ignition system. Any short along that line will blow the fuse and have you walking home. I'd run a dedicated, fused wire from the iggy sw direct to the kill sw. That way the iggy will always be powered unless the 20A main pops.

I'd run a dedicated, fused wire from the iggy sw direct to the kill sw. That way the iggy will always be powered unless the 20A main pops.

Second on that.

Something that might help with the planning for the wiring. Looking at the whole wiring diagram can get a bit overwhelming.
I look at the sub systems