25 years in the barn

Thorny

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Hello, I am new to the group and am already greatful for the info you all give. So, this bike is a 1977 XS650D with around 24K on the odometer. I last rode it around 1996 when my first son was born. I cleaned the gas tank, rebuilt the petcocks, new fuel line, took apart and cleaned the starter, new starter relay, put in new points and condensor, rebuilt the carbs and it fired right up. I carfully rode it around the yard, just using the back drum brake because the front MC is all cruddied up. So, I want a good front brake. I figure rebuild the mc and the caliper, and replace the lines. There are two hoses to the caliper but I don't see why I could not just use one and eliminate the fitting on the forks. It does not swivel or pivot, so I think it is not needed. Any advice? Also, where to ge the rebuild kits? Also, any additional advice like servicing front forks and replacing the chain would be appreciated. I hope the pics aren't too much.
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Hello, I am new to the group and am already greatful for the info you all give. So, this bike is a 1977 XS650D with around 24K on the odometer. I last rode it around 1996 when my first son was born. I cleaned the gas tank, rebuilt the petcocks, new fuel line, took apart and cleaned the starter, new starter relay, put in new points and condensor, rebuilt the carbs and it fired right up. I carfully rode it around the yard, just using the back drum brake because the front MC is all cruddied up. So, I want a good front brake. I figure rebuild the mc and the caliper, and replace the lines. There are two hoses to the caliper but I don't see why I could not just use one and eliminate the fitting on the forks. It does not swivel or pivot, so I think it is not needed. Any advice? Also, where to ge the rebuild kits? Also, any additional advice like servicing front forks and replacing the chain would be appreciated. I hope the pics aren't too much.View attachment 249681View attachment 249682View attachment 249683s?
Im doing the exact same thing on my 80 Special right now. I resurrected it after sitting a couple decades too.

I bought upper and lower hoses, new caliper piston, seal kit, master cylinder kit and all from Mikes XS.

Cleaning and re-assembling as we speak in fact.

I've tried skipping replacement of hoses and master cylinder parts before and its always bit me in the butt. Best bite the bullet, clean it all and replace it all at once and be done with it for sure. There will always be hidden crud in the part you skip!

As to your original question...I see many folks putting one piece hoses on all the time, particularly braided stainless hoses. This works fine if youre not trying to stay original in appearance.
 
The splitter block was there so dual fronts could be fitted from the factory (Euro and Oceana bikes I think :umm: ). No reason you couldn't do away with it and run a single hose.
I initially ran the single hose on my bike.
Don't throw the splitter away though, I decided to run duals on the front and had to reinstall it.
 
bite the bullet, clean it all and replace it all at once and be done with it for sure.

As to your original question...I see many folks putting one piece hoses on all the time, particularly braided stainless hoses. This works fine if youre not trying to stay original in appearance.

Agreed, all new hoses, I’ve done it both ways, the one piece steel braid line on my ‘77 ( which I honestly think is the better way to go ) and the factory 2 piece rubber lines on my XS2 which I was trying to stay stock with.

Both bikes received new master cylinders, and the XS2 got a new caliper as well.

I’ve always felt stopping is kinda important. 😄
 
You might want to consider removing those pleated filters off the back of the carbs also. They have a known reputation for not playing nice with the CV carbs.

Oh... and welcome to the forum!!
 
You might want to consider removing those pleated filters off the back of the carbs also. They have a known reputation for not playing nice with the CV carbs.

Oh... and welcome to the forum!!
Thanks. I just put them on to have something. I don't have the old box filter. Is it because both carbs get the same air?
 
:agree:
One piece stainless.
That is a nice bike. I hope I have enough elbow grease to make mine like it. I am gonna go with one piece stainless, but keep the spliter block in that barn..somewhere.
77 forks are a one year deal @5twins has internal details 'round here somewhere.
But they aren't hard to rebuild.
I have a book but haven't got to that part yet. Running and stopping were first on the list. So do you need parts to rebuild the forks? And, should I do anything to the rear shocks? I assume 25 plus year old tires should be replaced too. This thing is gonna nickel and dime me but that is why I kept it, because you can fix most of it yourself.
 
Is it because both carbs get the same air?
In the back of the carbs sits an oval opening. That's the sense air (for lack of a better term) that regulates the slide, and by extension the needle. It needs undisturbed air to "sense" correctly. Air through those pleats is anything but undisturbed.

Running and stopping were first on the list.
Not blowing a 25yr old tire 'round a curve ranks right up there too. ;)
Might wanna up the priority there.
 
They may well be cheap ass Chinese, but even the Chinese get it right once and a while. I've run these for about 4 yrs now. No complaints. I know other forum members are running 'em too.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/293800659036?hash=item4467e2485c:g:SewAAOSwe61fklRh&amdata=enc:AQAIAAAA8CWd0UFTyxj6ENsdB3S3l2wALSkmKDc505MechY4oeSem+K/jorM89naxOLQEJfcDf7a4E1fEYGk6bkV8zdb1yrquozy+OgMGWegC0+dH+uFYbngqwRg7saJ7dK1jxuy1fLmgmvDRPIN616arP2X52OWzWoxxxscSoJBi9ZqJF/cPEGULb9zU7Mbn5JKDh27BCPIabgXkhu3QSPdQ3mXPApAzYyA8ddrY9xA/B/7pQWnE9yFzY+E3yA+0ItwG5f/aCmmOcugm8V1/Rwln8rQS7ffZDqXRPGla8norQpVi9saZMckwKaQGzCJMg8mi7Hkvg==|tkp:BFBM0LyqysJi

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Re rebuild kits: Try to find K&L branded ones. They're good quality, even though you'll pay a little more. The rubber bits & bobs you get from Mikes XS are of dubious quality. In fact, a lot of Mikes stuff is dubious... though some bits are OK. Best to ask here first before ordering from them.
 
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They may well be cheap ass Chinese, but even the Chinese get it right once and a while. I've run these for about 4 yrs now. No complaints. I know other forum members are running 'em too.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/293800659036?hash=item4467e2485c:g:SewAAOSwe61fklRh&amdata=enc:AQAIAAAA8CWd0UFTyxj6ENsdB3S3l2wALSkmKDc505MechY4oeSem+K/jorM89naxOLQEJfcDf7a4E1fEYGk6bkV8zdb1yrquozy+OgMGWegC0+dH+uFYbngqwRg7saJ7dK1jxuy1fLmgmvDRPIN616arP2X52OWzWoxxxscSoJBi9ZqJF/cPEGULb9zU7Mbn5JKDh27BCPIabgXkhu3QSPdQ3mXPApAzYyA8ddrY9xA/B/7pQWnE9yFzY+E3yA+0ItwG5f/aCmmOcugm8V1/Rwln8rQS7ffZDqXRPGla8norQpVi9saZMckwKaQGzCJMg8mi7Hkvg==|tkp:BFBM0LyqysJi

View attachment 249698



Re rebuild kits: Try to find K&L branded ones. They're good quality, even though you'll pay a little more. The rubber bits you get from Mikes XS are of dubious quality. In fact, a lot of Mikes stuff is dubious... though some bits are OK. Best to ask here first before ordering from them.
Agreed Mikes is indeed dubious across the board...still pissed about that clutch actuator worm that went straight in the trash bin. :mad:

Oh and the "replacement" front turn signal...yeah, it looks the part sort of. Until you go to install it and realize its over a 1/4" longer stalk than the original one....you'll have lop eared signals if you use it. :mad::mad:
 
How do ya'all know this stuff isnt out of the same Chineseium bin that Mikes is out of?

I know many, many vendors sell the exact same crap from China all the time is why I ask....
K&L has been around a looong time - long before Mike started importing stuff via Taiwan (in fact IIRC Mike Lalonde used to work for K&L before he went off on his own). K&L's products have always been good quality; I can't remember anything that was substandard or unservicable off-hand.
 
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