Kyleshep49
XS650 Addict
How can i tell if the oil is getting circulated properly also? The bike didn’t have anything in the air filter (side) i added it in. Wondering why the oil was coming out that side cover (not much very little)
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81 XS650 running but have issues
- Thread starter Kyleshep49
- Start date
There should be two pins in that side. One locks that aluminum part to the advance rod, the other locks it to the cam. Once that aluminum part is slid onto and locked into the two pins, there should be no way for them to fall out. I'd pull that aluminum part off and try the install again.
Take a close look at the head gasket, it may be the leak source. If you haven't done so, a head bolt re-torque is probably needed.
Take a close look at the head gasket, it may be the leak source. If you haven't done so, a head bolt re-torque is probably needed.
Kyleshep49
XS650 Addict
Ok great, letting the bike cool off and I’ll try these things later. I have a 2 year old so i work on my bike in 10 min increments whenever it’s even possible
Kyleshep49
XS650 Addict
Hey so got the pin back in the cam again and putting together i think i may have a defective part cause the slot on my plate thing goes all the way through so the pin could come out. Is there a fix i could do like aluminum tape? I’ll call mikes for correct part to if i need to
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Not sure what pins it is and whereto fix them
A pin can always be made from the shaft of a drill of the right diameter cutting of a piece
And there exists chemicals ( Loctite ) that have various strengths holding the pin in place
After grinding it to appropriate fitting .
I would not use the strongest locking chemicals . I would be surprised if not standard thread locking is enough
A pin can always be made from the shaft of a drill of the right diameter cutting of a piece
And there exists chemicals ( Loctite ) that have various strengths holding the pin in place
After grinding it to appropriate fitting .
I would not use the strongest locking chemicals . I would be surprised if not standard thread locking is enough
Kyleshep49
XS650 Addict
So according to the guys the part is correct that’s just how they are now. And they said the pin should stay in (it’s tapered) they said it’s possible the pin is to small if the wrong one was sent. But he said to maybe tap it in a little with a mallet
Well, that sounds like B.S. to me. I don't think the pins are tapered at all, I've never heard that before. I never encountered a taper on any I've installed, they fit in either way. All the stock components have the pin slot covered, or in the case of the advance unit backing plate, there's a pin pressed into it above that pin in the cam .....
I think you're going to continue having issues with that pin falling out unless you figure out a way to block it in somehow. It's going to have centrifugal force constantly working on it, trying to fling it out.
I think you're going to continue having issues with that pin falling out unless you figure out a way to block it in somehow. It's going to have centrifugal force constantly working on it, trying to fling it out.
Kyleshep49
XS650 Addict
Do you have any ideas of how to keep it in? I was thinking loctite, a little force or tap and then what? Is it stupid to use a couple winds of aluminum tape? Or will it get to hot inside there? I couldn’t really clamp it without making it heavy on a side and through it off. I don’t know i wish i could find an older style one that was sealed
Kyleshep49
XS650 Addict
So i needed up using a small strand of copper from a wire strand as i pounded the pin in. I also did one winding of aluminum tape around the cap as a sail safe. I’ll start with that and monitor it. Maybe i didn’t have that pin wedged in correctly the first time who knows. Now I’m going to get it back in time and see what happens. I did the head re torque also just now. I will add that one of the nuts too tight had a little spring back to it. Not sure if the threads are hitting the top of that nut. I might have to add a washer with the copper one
Kyleshep49
XS650 Addict
Fixed the advance rod slipping. Trying to get the timing now. At about 15 btdc it feels good sounds good. Noticed after it warmed up and i gave it a quick loop around my block it seemed to not want to idle as well. May have to turn up the idle, unless i need to mess with my fuel air screws. I also need to sync the carbs haven’t done that yet. I’m at just a base 3.25 turns each side. I’m also not 100% on the clutch plates and springs cause when i rode it and hit the gas hard it kinda reved up like i was spinning the back tire. Either i was, or my clutch was slipping i guess. Not really sure yet. I might just get a whole kit for the clutch just to be safe regardless. Also need to make a a good heat shield i burnt the shit outa my leg with these pipes.
Sounds good . it is a bit retarded ( late ) but very little I believe ..but I have is so also runs softer.
Throttle response looks better.
One can always search for the last ..little thing ..but it takes time and compromises must be made in real life
It can change with heat and after running a while there can be a need for fine tuning
Clutch slipping can need adjustment to fix
And be sure it is the right oil for wet clutches
Throttle response looks better.
One can always search for the last ..little thing ..but it takes time and compromises must be made in real life
It can change with heat and after running a while there can be a need for fine tuning
Clutch slipping can need adjustment to fix
And be sure it is the right oil for wet clutches
Kyleshep49
XS650 Addict
This is what i am running for oil. Is this good for my clutch? I had seen some guys running it on here i thought when i originally looked it up. I’m my Honda XL250R tracker i run a Honda oil that works really good, maybe i should go to that
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Well i am no expert and don't know what is available
Synthetic is something I don't like
I have as a rule to only use fluids that was available when the bike was designed .
That is for the risk of chemicals causing problems . Chemicals that not existed when the bike was designed
As recently been discussed ethanol in fuel
I run 20 W - 50 mineral and change rather often
And I suppose we have cooler climate here so you in Florida perhaps would go to thicker rather than thinner oil
Having said that I believe an adjustement can do the trick
Synthetic is something I don't like
I have as a rule to only use fluids that was available when the bike was designed .
That is for the risk of chemicals causing problems . Chemicals that not existed when the bike was designed
As recently been discussed ethanol in fuel
I run 20 W - 50 mineral and change rather often
And I suppose we have cooler climate here so you in Florida perhaps would go to thicker rather than thinner oil
Having said that I believe an adjustement can do the trick
Kyleshep49
XS650 Addict
Ok, i think I’ll drain this and grab some oil specific like i did on my Honda. I may run the same stuff as it works really good with my wet clutch, my Honda is a 82 so same time frame as my Yamaha so maybe it will work good
Valvoline VR1 20w50 works well for me.
As long as it doesn’t have friction inhibitors it’s normally OK and I’m talking about synthetic. It would sometimes be labeled as “gas saving” which can cause your clutch to slip.
Kyleshep49
XS650 Addict
Got oil leaking here. May have been my leak the whole time not sure, maybe it was trickling down the whole side
Kyleshep49
XS650 Addict
Is it easy to replace?
