81 XS650 running but have issues

[Jan_P]

Is it easy to replace?

Maybe the simplest on the whole bike
With a little grease on the outside of the seal I was able to press it in with my thumbs
Otherwise use a socket or pipe stump.
Be careful installing it on the Bike so the seal is not damaged.

There is a gasket and an O - ring to get into place

 

[Kyleshep49]

While i wait for a seal i kinda threw together a heat shield. I still need to cut out the heat shield stuff on each hole but this is kinda how it turned out. Anything to help protect my leg. I might make another one this was just a practice one

 

[Kyleshep49]

Used this on the inside

 

[Kyleshep49]

Cut out that material. Looks a little choppy but I’ll make another one later

 

[Kyleshep49]

Maybe the simplest on the whole bike
With a little grease on the outside of the seal I was able to press it in with my thumbs
Otherwise use a socket or pipe stump.
Be careful installing it on the Bike so the seal is not damaged.

There is a gasket and an O - ring to get into place

View attachment 211251

So what all do i need to order just the o ring? I asked mikes Xs for the part and showed them the picture, he sent me a link to just the o ring

 

[Jan_P]

So what all do i need to order just the o ring? I asked mikes Xs for the part and showed them the picture, he sent me a link to just the o ring

Difficult to know for me
It looks as if it is the seal since it is coming on the inside.
If it was me I would take it off ( 3 JIS screws please check so not loose first ) smear gasket cement on the gasket and on the O -ring assuming it is there and at the right place Doing a proper job tightening it back.
So far not ordering anything
Put it back and see if it leaks again and then replace the seal and perhaps a gasket and new O - ring
Swear and do it again -- but that is just me.

 

[Kyleshep49]

got all the parts for both sides ordered should be here by Friday. Seals, o-rings, gaskets. Got to clean the areas really good while i wait. I’ve never dumped so much money in a bike but this just feels worth it, such a bad ass bike

 

[Kyleshep49]

Anyone made one of these heat shield number plates. I kinda like them. Or is there somewhere that sells them?

 

[Kyleshep49]

So got the seal done for the cam. Had to make a gasket but went good. Oils good timing was set and it felt good sounded good in the driveway. Took it for a ride finally and about 2 miles out it started running like crap and died. Sat there trying to kick start it forever. No luck. Then i had a screw driver so i started messing with the timing and got it started again (retarded it more). Then headed back home and got a mile in and it died again. Sat there tryin to start it no luck. Messed with timing tried everything an eventually i got it. It seems to me that it’s something in the ignition either that rod has slipped again even tho i checked and it looked good, or it’s in the e advance ignition i have almost like it’s having a problem somehow when it gets hot. Idk just seems weird. I did just install new fuel air screws which the old ones were missing the o-ring and washer. I had cleaned out that hole too. Set them at 3.5 turns out seems to run good there. Just seems like it all goes to crap when it gets hot running it. Letting it cool down now then I’ll go in check stuff again. Gonna check valves and cam chain tensioner again. I forgot also it lost all compression at one point for a few kicks. Almost like a valve was stuck open or something. Kinda at a lost at the moment

 

[Jan_P]

If this is a new problem never been there before ..go back look at the wires that has been touched and moved .

This can be almost everything with the ignition falling out

First thing to do is checking fuel delivery no clogged filter or lose hoses petcock opening ? if stock try he PRI position

I have not worked with PMA but my guess ( A shot in he dark ) Is a faulty regulator or rectifier.
But can also be the ignition unit the seller perhaps can give info.
If the wiring is inspected and serviced with most attention to connectors and switches. No loose connectors
I would install a voltmeter on the bike across the battery .Inspect what it reads when machine stalls.

Another shot in the dark the no compression thing is a Clutch not adjusted or sticking a little if the valves are OK
adjusted. Wait a while on that.

A third guess ..Is fuel related as first guess I have had a non opening petcock giving problems and shorted stock regulator
giving problems The regulator needed in that case a bit longer time to show out on the road at higher rev taking time .heating up but the fuel was quicker
it runs a while on what is in the bowls. A couple of miles and starts misfiring and dies.
In my case the petcock shutoff membrane was leaking so after a while petrol leaked down and I could start just to stall again after a short while.
But shorter time than is needed to heat up the regulator .. That was the rubber hose from the intake manifold coming loose not opening the petcock.
Fault finding on a hot motor / system is impossible more or less .And cooling down it might not manifest itself. That is why the voltmeter installation is a good thing.
And having it there in the future.

 

[Kyleshep49]

If this is a new problem never been there before ..go back look at the wires that has been touched and moved .

This can be almost everything with the ignition falling out

First thing to do is checking fuel delivery no clogged filter or lose hoses petcock opening ? if stock try he PRI position

I have not worked with PMA but my guess ( A shot in he dark ) Is a faulty regulator or rectifier.
But can also be the ignition unit the seller perhaps can give info.
If the wiring is inspected and serviced with most attention to connectors and switches. No loose connectors
I would install a voltmeter on the bike across the battery .Inspect what it reads when machine stalls.

Another shot in the dark the no compression thing is a Clutch not adjusted or sticking a little if the valves are OK
adjusted. Wait a while on that.

A third guess ..Is fuel related as first guess I have had a non opening petcock giving problems and shorted stock regulator
giving problems The regulator needed in that case a bit longer time to show out on the road at higher rev taking time .heating up but the fuel was quicker
it runs a while on what is in the bowls. A couple of miles and starts misfiring and dies.
In my case the petcock shutoff membrane was leaking so after a while petrol leaked down and I could start just to stall again after a short while.
But shorter time than is needed to heat up the regulator .. That was the rubber hose from the intake manifold coming loose not opening the petcock.
Fault finding on a hot motor / system is impossible more or less .And cooling down it might not manifest itself. That is why the voltmeter installation is a good thing.
And having it there in the future.

Ok this is all good info. A couple quick points on what i have;
New petcock without vacuum line those are capped at the intake
All new wiring from scratch, no battery or starter
New PMA/reg/rec with ignition gen 2 with e-advance (blue one)
Carbs are 34s with all new jets

Now i had just changed my oil cause my clutch seemed to want to slip a little and maybe that has something to do with the compression going out like you said maybe there is more going on down there. Running valvoline vr1 20 50 now.

Also before this ride i had just changed out my air/fuel screws with new ones, the old ones were missing rubber and washer. I had sprayed out the holes with carb cleaner (while all hooked up still).

I had noticed earlier before leaving on the ride that my fuel filter was empty and it died, had to jiggle it and turn it to reserve so figured i was just low on gas. But I’ll put a pic on here of how i run my line. Maybe it’s not feeding to 2 bowls well enough or having problems

I’m not great at checking electrical i may have to figure that out, i have a volts meter though. Just so weird that it will run so well then stop i keep thinking it’s something with fuel

 

[Raymond]

Could be fuel starvation. My XS has two fuel taps, one each side, and I run with both open. If you've just got one tap, and a link between the carbs, might run low after a couple of miles? FWIW.

 

[Kyleshep49]

Could be fuel starvation. My XS has two fuel taps, one each side, and I run with both open. If you've just got one tap, and a link between the carbs, might run low after a couple of miles? FWIW.

Only thing i feel like with that is if it were just the fuel bowls filling up that would only take a matter of seconds if the bike shut off. But i had to wait like 15-20 min to get it to start again. My bike i think always had one tap to split into two carbs. It’s a 81 model

 

[Jan_P]

Only thing i feel like with that is if it were just the fuel bowls filling up that would only take a matter of seconds if the bike shut off. But i had to wait like 15-20 min to get it to start again. My bike i think always had one tap to split into two carbs. It’s a 81 model

May well be right and most likely is right However it is many times simpler to test that than to find an electrical fault.
Possibly ending buying electronics at big bucks.. a pop
There is a filter inside the tank also that can be clogged
I would take off the tank One bolt and hold it over a jar or so and open se if it flows properly
I would then remove filter and other things downstream from the tank ( After inspection for rust and so coming out or inside the tank )

The float valves should manage to close . I would then test ride close to home so I can push it back and just with so much fuel in it so the test ride is possible
That because if the float valve don't do it there is no stopping ..

Can have a wise clamp or so in the back pocket to put over the hose.

After that should it still stall .That part is taken out of the Equation. So to speak

As a side note .I always do it that way the .. Simplest Cheapest first unless I have clear solid information of what it is.

An intermittent electrical fault can be tricky. How many fuses is on the motorcycle Sitting Tight ? .Right Size ?
Kill Switch inspected ?
Battery connections solid ? if battery is used.

 

[Kyleshep49]

May well be right and most likely is right However it is many times simpler to test that than to find an electrical fault.
Possibly ending buying electronics at big bucks.. a pop
There is a filter inside the tank also that can be clogged
I would take off the tank One bolt and hold it over a jar or so and open se if it flows properly
I would then remove filter and other things downstream from the tank ( After inspection for rust and so coming out or inside the tank )

The float valves should manage to close . I would then test ride close to home so I can push it back and just with so much fuel in it so the test ride is possible
That because if the float valve don't do it there is no stopping ..

Can have a wise clamp or so in the back pocket to put over the hose.

After that should it still stall .That part is taken out of the Equation. So to speak

As a side note .I always do it that way the .. Simplest Cheapest first unless I have clear solid information of what it is.

An intermittent electrical fault can be tricky. How many fuses is on the motorcycle Sitting Tight ? .Right Size ?
Kill Switch inspected ?
Battery connections solid ? if battery is used.

So mikes is sending a new ignition trigger plate out today to see if that’s a fix for it. If not they said i may need to send everything back for new. I’m gonna start testing all that other electrical while i wait to cross those off

 

[Adamc]

Only thing i feel like with that is if it were just the fuel bowls filling up that would only take a matter of seconds if the bike shut off. But i had to wait like 15-20 min to get it to start again. My bike i think always had one tap to split into two carbs. It’s a 81 model

My bike runs from one petcock. I also had problems with the bike staring fine then cutting out and dying. Then difficult to restart, but after 10mins would fire up again run for a bit the die. It was fuel starvation traced to a bent carb float pin interrupting the fuel flow to the bowls. Also check the float heights; they are easily altered when cleaning or fiddling in the bowls.

 

[Kyleshep49]

My bike runs from one petcock. I also had problems with the bike staring fine then cutting out and dying. Then difficult to restart, but after 10mins would fire up again run for a bit the die. It was fuel starvation traced to a bent carb float pin interrupting the fuel flow to the bowls. Also check the float heights; they are easily altered when cleaning or fiddling in the bowls.

Ok, yeah deep down i feel like it’s in my carb too. But it’s so confusing. I’ll at least get the new ignition switched out and I’ll take my carbs apart and check everything again. You think when i cleaned out the air/fuel screw area with the carbs still on maybe i washed something inside somewhere?

 

[Adamc]

Hard to say what’s wrong. General rule here is check ignition system first; then fuel delivery. Carbs on these are sensitive to adjustment and crap gathered inside them. No harm in taking them apart again and thoroughly checking through. It’s good practice and it gets easier each time. Mine were off and on again 6 times in a day before I was happy. Make sure all the parts are installed in the right order in the right place.

 

[Kyleshep49]

So a coworker of mine who work on engines told me to try this… and tell me if this is stupid or a smart thing to try… he said to start it on hold it at around 2200 rpm’s or somewhere in there and just hold it there let it get hot and see if the fuel runs out. He seems to think based on what i told him that i may need the vacuum petcock to prevent any vapor lock and said it’s probably a fuel delivery issue. What do you guys think?

 

[Jan_P]

So a coworker of mine who work on engines told me to try this… and tell me if this is stupid or a smart thing to try… he said to start it on hold it at around 2200 rpm’s or somewhere in there and just hold it there let it get hot and see if the fuel runs out. He seems to think based on what i told him that i may need the vacuum petcock to prevent any vapor lock and said it’s probably a fuel delivery issue. What do you guys think?

Say for reasoning it stalls .How do you know it is not the electronics or wiring shorting out because it also gets hot.
Looking in a filter ?? Or taking down the bowls afterwards ??