Depending on the time it was built. Early 78 engine # 2FO-000101- 2FO-006501, had just a single fuse. Later had the 4 fuse box.
If it has the single fuse it will be in a holder on the right side of the battery box.
The rectifier, note spelling is mounted on the bottom of the battery box.
The regulator is mounted on the left side of the battery box.
I'll post some pics.
Ok to get spark, check at the points, follow the wires from the points up toward the coils. These wires and wires from the coils as well as wires from the condensers all plug together, Be sure the wire from the upper/right points plugs into the right coil, The wire from the lower/left points to the left coil.
The condensers are mounted between the two halves of the top engine mount.
On the coils one wire goes to the points, another wire plugs into a red/white wire of the harness.
Unplug these wire from the red/white wire. Build a set of jumper wires that you can hook to these wires. Hook them through a switch to the positive of a fully charged battery. Hook the negative of the battery to a good frame ground. For this test one of the top engine mount bolts will work fine.
Pull the plugs Hook them back in the plug wires. Hold them against the block. Another thing you can do is build a plug holder. Get some solid copper wire, like house wiring. A couple feet is plenty. Scraps from a building site works well. Strip out the bare ground wire. Wrap one end around one plug so the plug can screw in/out of the wire, do the same on the other end. Slide this wire along the top of the engine so it stick out both sides. Put one plug in each end. AS the bare wire touches the engine it provides ground for the plugs. Now turn the switch on, kick the engine over with the kick start and watch the plugs. If the points and such are in good shape you should get a nice blue spark on the plugs, if not look at the points. They may be dirty.
Points are cheap so you might as well replace them. Your repair manual tells how to gap and time the points.
If you get good spark. Turn off the switch. Don't want to burn those new points.
Pour about a tablespoon or two of fresh gas in each plug hole. Install plugs in engine, Turn on the switch and kick the engine over. It should fire up and run a bit, till the gas you poured in burns up.
If it runs a bit then putting the tank on, watch the jumper wires to the coil. Hook up fuel lines, Put fuel in tank, turn on petcock, wait a few minutes watching for fuel leak at petcock and carbs. If no leak try starting.
If things leak fix them before you try to start.
I might use the carb guide at
www.amckayltd.com/carbguide.pdf to tear down, clean, inspect reassemble and adjust the carbs. DON"T buy carb kits, they usually come with a bunch of parts you can't use Float bowl gaskets are often all they need along with a good cleaning.
The inspection will tell you what else you need. Then buy just what you need.
Me I would strip out that wiring and start from scratch. Reuse most of that wire, just delete a lot you don't need. I'll post the diagram I like. It has the basic points set up, with the separate regulator and rectifier like yours and in boxes it has the later TCI and combo reg/rec. You can just swap around the boxes to match what you have.
The E-start is in the upper right corner.
On those tires they may look ok but how old are they? To tell how old a tire is, find the DOT number on the tire, the last numbers are in an oval. These numbers are the date of manufacture. The first two are the week of the year, the last two are the year.
Like a 2407 means the 24th week of 2007.
If there are only three numbers in the oval, they are very old tires. The first two are the week the last one is the year. As in 199X some thing. They started the four numbers in 2000.
Tire manufacturers recommend not to run tires over 6 years old. Tires age, they get hard, the plies start to come apart, the tread loosens and can come off.
All things not fun.
In the pics the regulator is the steel box thing with a green tube along the edge, the rectifier is the square thing.
Leo
A bare bones diagram would be awesome.Then,If she's not a knocker and everything is ok... I'll wire in the other components as I go and make it a charging system.
