BS 34 carburetors

jpdevol

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Hmmm....the Ebay pic of that switch shows a 4 pin block connector. My factory '80 switch has 3 pins as so
20220907_152407.jpg
80_XS650G SCHEMATIC (2).PNG
 
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Jan_P

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Yes Sir there are different types
Perhaps only in Europe
Sometime 1980 or so the 4 pin came in
Complicating it Not follwing the main rule " Keep it simple " I Have 2 with broken internal plastic parts and one with weak springs I believe.
and can buy a lock for Boating -- over the counter -- simple ... at a third or fourth of the price
but it wont fit where the standard goes
Its not a good design
 

jpdevol

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If you can post the diagram for the Ebay switch, we can figure it out. Or, absent that, just ohm and record which Ebay wires are connected in various sw. positions.
 

Jan_P

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If you can post the diagram for the Ebay switch, we can figure it out. Or, absent that, just ohm and record which Ebay wires are connected in various sw. positions.

Thank you
I have sent an e - mail to the seller se what he says if anything since I have the old switches I can perhaps measure on them se which wires
connects where.
How does one get the connector clip out of the plastic part . Best way as mr 5T in post #100 ...is it a special tool
 

jpdevol

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There are special tools, but usually a very small flat-blade - the same width as connector tang - will work. I'll post a pic in a bit
 

5twins

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Yes, there is a locking tab on the crimp you need to depress .....

FemaleLockSpade.jpg


Yes, there are special tools, but you can make do without them .....


AddingWire.jpg


AddingWire2.jpg


AddingWire3.jpg


Once out, you will probably need to bend the lock tab back out so it locks back in the housing again. A small knife works well for this .....

AddingWire8.jpg


AddingWire9.jpg
 

Jan_P

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Got an answer can return it
But the moving of wires looks as an option need the lock

Looking into the 4 pin connector
left to right NEW Upper row Red -- Brown
lower Black With Blue stripe -- Black

OLD Upper row Blue --Blue with Red stripe
lower Red -- Brown

So the plan flipping Upper row down
and then figure the other 2 out. testing see what happens
 

650Skull

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650Skull

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I forgot i had this for the UK/Europe SE. I drew in the ignition circuit and added the Key to the diagram. The drawn black wire from the ignition should be Brown..........

I have resized it. if you want a full size diagram let me know
78SE UK 1 - R Power Ignition copy 3 a copyright resize 2500.jpg
 
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Jan_P

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Not working setback

I was able to move the cables ..used a small instrument screwdriver No problem
connected it took it for a testride without headlamp
Tweaked the ignition OK this is good

Tried to connect the light and could not get the rear light or Auxiliary light in front to work
All other worked
Turns out the internals ot the lock was not the same
Stock as per Mr Skull ON position R Br L- L/R

1662834258027.png


The installed one did not connect L - LR

So I went for servicing the stock old one cleaning and tightening up It was dirty inside with grease.
But mechanically looked OK
Installed it all lights working OK time for a test ride FORGET ABOUT IT Did not start at all
No sign of even cough or backfire No Signs of trying even.

Battery was on the low side perhaps went low whole i tested . Is on charging now
I Can have a short some where Need to measure.
I am getting Closer and Closer to bite the bullet and order a new harness
 

Jan_P

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Bus passenger with the Toolbox again
The no start up ..Was the kill switch wires that was squeezed so they shorted out against the handlebar. .Ignition fuse open
Soldered and shrink wrap
Serviced every connector inside the headlamp .Put the rubber grommet in place
Charged the battery and Wroomm Wroomm Wroomm Wroomm

Washed the bike ,and went for a ride 40 miles one way Perfect weather ..
Stumbled a little 2 .3 k rpm but OK .I can live with this for now. Felt stronger at high rpm Also

Parked the MC and when I came back after the sight seeing and Chocolate and other stuff out there riding.
Came back there was a puddle of something black under the Motorcycle. something like 3 x 4 feet

What the **** is that Oil .No it was petrol dripping down on the chain.And then onto the ground
Looked down in the tank and there was some left.
I did not know how much so I figured Ill try to ride home perhaps it is enough.
I knew of several filling stations on the way home
Started after some effort ran bad on the right cylinder .But got better and set off.
I figured Ill try to run home .Stopping it and might not get home tonight
8 - 10 mile from home started spluttering as it does when no gas left.

200 -- 400 yards to the filling station Steered in and started to fill up.
Gas pouring out on the left side massively as if the hose was not connected at all But it was ..
By some reason the stock petcock that should have off function did not have that .
And the float valve did not shut either Gas pouring out onto the ground.

Pushed the bike aside and managed to get the float valve to shut better not entirely but better

Could not get it to start .. I had a spark plug wrench there was spark but no firing up. Neither side Gas dripping
Had to give up for the night 8.30 pm ish. Pushed the bike to a better place for parking it industrial area
Took out the battery and took a bus home

Next day new battery and wiring schematic Voltmeter + Tools in the backpack Bus again
Afraid all tank Content had dripped down over the night.
Luckily not so the same 3 x 4 feet . Puddle
In with the new battery.. And started cylinder left and after a while Right came into life.
Went home

First thing was to empty the tank .And noticing the petcock did not close in any position.
So a guess is that some rubber inside there has cracked or so and there is Parts of that rubber in the carburetor now.

Battery was old from 2014 the brushes in the Alternator is short and the petcock needs to be fixed
And the carburetors cleaned .. Most likely the season is over As Mr Mailman put it
Does it ever end ..
Getting to old for this Pushing bikes in the night No need for exercise..The sofa
 

jpdevol

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Sorry to hear of yet more troubles for you and the old bike. I'm guessing that you are correct and that the rubber valve inside has deteriorated and the bits also stuck the float valve. Perhaps it even leaked enough to contaminate the crankcase oil via intakes - bears checking. I hope you find a new valve from cmsnl.com and get speedily back on the road. Wishing you better luck....
 

Jan_P

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Tried to get the petcock to close ---- to much work to little result
Had this on in the 80 ies
Will try it again for the time being not much left of the season It is Airtight closing
Unknown for what purpose the petcock originally.
The Boys in an Excavator shop i worked cose to -- gas welded the Hydraulic couplings to the pipe stumps.
And I made an aluminum plug front side with tight fit locked with Loctite
the back side has a rubber piece for sealing I will use some chemical
It worked then And hopefullt now also




1663757520026.jpeg
 

Jan_P

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Still stumbling 2 - 3000 rpm but less.
Decided to put on a stock petcock after all --would have been difficult to connect the home made solution
In between the carburetors without tearing down.
Had other petcocks laying here so found parts that worked.
New Electronic regulator keeping it spot on 14 V regardless if lights on or low rpm looks fine.
New battery
Have new brushes just arrived
Season is more or less over .. But could ride yesterday ..
Nervous passing the place it stalled last time.

When I short blip from idle it chokes as if it is getting to rich mixture before it revs up
Probably ill rejet to stock .. Se what happens and go from there
Not synced yet . Maybe ill check that first.
Or take Mr Skulls setup test that.
Or do the readup in tech section Not had time to do that ..Other reading to do first.
Have a second set carburetors that I perhaps can rebuild in the winter
 

Jan_P

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Low tech again but perhaps useful
I synchronized the carburetors and they were off.
Turned the adjusting screw the wrong way --- But back again ---And after a wile started misfiring
I had forgotten to set the petcock in PRI position
Now they are synchronized spot on
Not road tested ..worked with the flashlight in the mouth at the end
I read on the forum that there is a risk sucking the fluid in

I used engine Oil 20 W 50

Some years ago I made a clamp for petrol hoses when taking tanks off

Starting the bike with the hoses clamped .and then slowly open -- When the fluid start to move power off
And Adjust
And on it again .. Those pipes are from a Bicycle frame . and not carefully made Hacksaw and drilling quick fix

IMAG0130.jpg
IMAG0129.jpg
 
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