Clutch assembly questions

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pumps

XS650 Junkie
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Today I bit the bullet and pulled off the right side cover and got my clutch apart. I've read a lot of posts about it and still have questions. From the condition of the heads of the spring screws I's say someone has been in the before. My Clymer manual shows 6 friction plates and 5 steel plates. One parts fiche diagram for the D, E, and F models shows 7 friction and 6 steel which is what is in the bike actually. Mikes shows the 6/5 being oem so I guess it's been changed on the bike. My friction plates are too thin according the the micrometer so I'm getting new ones.
I know about the 2-2-2 on the washers but am a little unclear as to order. Again the crankcase there is a smaller diameter washer then a larger one, correct?
Then between the driven gear and the needle thrust washer there should be one? Then another. Same size?
Under the nut should be a spring washer(as called on mikes site) to the outside and a washer closer in ?
My clutch springs are in spec so I think I will reuse them. Any tips? Gonna take my spring screws up to my pal Kent in KCs house and do the allen head mod. :thumbsup:
 
The 6/5 plate set-up was stock from '80 on. Yours is correct with 7/6. What do your friction plates measure? New or good is 3mm. I've rarely seen any worn out. I would replace the springs anyway. They can measure in spec and still be weak. Get them from 650 Central, not Mike's. 3M offers 3 choices of various stiffness. You'd probably want his softest, still stiffer than stock though, Veshrah brand I think.

Here's the washer sequence, it's hard to mix them up because their I.D.s are different .....

Clutch Hub Washers.jpg


MikesXS says to place the bearing directly against the inner basket with the 2 washers on top, claims the clutch works better this way. I've tried it both ways and didn't really notice any difference.
 
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The outer thick washer is missing. Only the bearing and a similar sized thin washer. Try the hardware store? Thickness the same as the inner thick one? Also should the outer washer under the nut be a lock washer? The friction plates, at least the two I used the micrometer on were all less than 3 mm. 2.93-2.95 ish.
650central is off line right now. I'll try him later.
 
The wear limit is 2.7mm so you're still good. I'd just do springs, plates are expensive. The washers are pretty important. They have to be the proper thickness to give the right spacing between the inner and outer baskets. The thick ones are 2mm, thin ones 1mm thick. Check the back of the inner basket, maybe the other washer is stuck to it with oil. The outer nut should have 2 washers under it, a plain flat one and a conical or "Belleville" style lock washer (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Belleville_washer). This is a domed type lock washer that gets pressed flat when you tighten the nut.
 
If you can't find your washer I have some spares, if you want one I can mail you one. I replaced mine with Mike's and I have a couple extra clutch pacs.
Does it work better with Mike's new bearing, not that I can notice. I guess the old bearing would need to be really bad to see an improvment.
 
I have to visit my local breaker for a couple small things so I'll see if he has a washer for me. I'm pretty sure he will. After looking again the thick washer is not stuck. Just not there.:wtf:
 
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Missing outer thick washer has shown itself. Must've rolled under the oil drain pan . Of course while I was fiddling around I pushed on the clutch rod from the left. The ball bearing popped out, rolled right down into the oil drain pan hole into a full pan of oil. Story of my life. :banghead:
 
Pumps is "gone fishin' ", lol. Nice you found that washer. I don't think the clutch would have been working correctly without it all this time. It had to be in there.
 
I am going to visit my friend the breaker and get a replacement clutch screw AND a ball bearing. ;)
 
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I think the Clymer is referring to the earlier clutch plates, they were thicker than yours. Your size is 3mm new so yours are barely worn at all.
 
On page 79 of my Clymer , step 12 , it refers to 2 of the friction plates not being the same as the others. That there are 4 fiber backed plates and 2 aluminum backed plates. 2 fiber backed plates are to be installed first (I assume with steel plates between?) followed by 2 aluminum backed plates. All my fiber backed plates look the same. No aluminum backed plates? Is this correct?
As I recall it came off with fiber, then steel,all the way through. :confused:
 
That also refers to the early model clutches, your plates are all the same and should alternate fiber, steel, fiber, steel, etc. all the way through. Start and finish with a fiber, that's why there's one more of them than the steel. Every fiber plate should be sandwiched in steel. The bottom of the basket acts like another steel plate to sandwich the 1st fiber plate and the pressure plate on top acts as the other steel plate for the last fiber one.
 
I recommend the factory one. You can usually find them on eBay for less than $20. Until then, you can refer to the one on Biker.net.
 
I agree with 5twins on the factory manual. There are a couple C model supplements on Ebay right now. A bunch of the Clymer's. I don't know what you may find at other places, like Amazon. Maybe some of the other book sellers, Barnses and Noble.
 
It would be nice to find a D model version because your forks are unique, a one year only item.
 

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