Clutch push-rod seal

On an XS650, the neutral switch screws into the top of the engine case. The three screw plastic one is used on RD's and the smaller XS400.... NOT on the 650.

XS400 uses a wet alternator... runs in engine oil. The 650 DOES NOT... it runs dry.

A common leak is the sprocket nut being loose. Check that it's properly tightened before you order seals.

Sources for parts....
How's your bookmark finger?


https://www.cruzinimage.net/

https://www.partshark.com/oemparts/partsearch/suzuki?partsearch=13651-51010

https://www.mikesxs.net/

http://650central.com/

https://www.nospartsnow.com/yamaha/

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle

https://yamahaxs650.com/

https://www.diablocycle.com/

https://www.georgefixs.com/yamaha/

http://vintageconnections.com/

https://xs650direct.com/

Make sure you ask here before buying. We have combined many years of experience with these vendors and mostly know what's good and what's garbage.

MikesXS. Think of them as a last resort. Some of their stuff is OK, but way too much of it's Chinese junk. Ask before you order.

Google in-site search function.... site:xs650.com (space plus search criteria) For instance... site:xs650.com jim
 
The neutral switch is on top of the case under the carbs and the stator wires wouldn’t be leaking as there isn’t a seal for that as there is no oil in the alternator housing. The XS400 is completely different.
 
I am having trouble tipping it to the right side. I understand I have to before I take the cover off, correct? Otherwise oil will flow out like mad? I have no center stand, but perhaps I can at least get it upright or close
 
I just ordered this kit. But of course it only has one push-rod seal! So I asked him for a second one and if he could send me an invoice for the added part. If not, I wil understand of course. I am throwing a monkey wrench into his process! Although... I haven't taken the cover off yet! Cart before the horse I guess.
I agree with the honda guy, just take your time; I've never screwed up this installation. There is info on this procedure here in the tech section. Also, MikesXS has a tech section with a good installation article on this seal.
 
So, I took off the sprocket and cleaned both that seal and the push-rod seal with brake cleaner, came back a 1/2 hour later and both are still dry. When I took the cover off, the push-rod seal looked like some fresh oil over the grime that was there. But I am not 100% sure. That was my first impression. I will take another look later on, but perhaps it only leaks when hot, because this supposed leak was new after I test rode it according to the guy, only less than a mile. I do not think he was fibbing. Like I said, this guy seems honest as the day is long. So anyway, it wasn't max hot yet. What would you guys do, if it remains clean into tomorrow or when the seals arrive? Or actually, I'll cross that bridge when I come to it. But I just wonder if I should replace both as long as I am in there. Perhaps it will be more obvious later on.
edit: btw, I might just drain the oil if I have to extract a seal or two. That'd be more up my alley than trying to tip it again. That sucked a tad bit.
 
edit: btw, I might just drain the oil if I have to extract a seal or two. That'd be more up my alley than trying to tip it again. That sucked a tad bit.
Just stand it straight up. The oil level is below the level of those seals... no need to drain the oil.

came back a 1/2 hour later and both are still dry.
They won't leak just sitting there. You'll need to run the engine to find out if it still leaks.
 
I will remind you of what Jim said about checking the sprocket. Although there is a bent retainer washer on there they can be prone to loosening up. I’ve had one do it even after I torqued it to spec.
 
Ok, thx. It wasn't super tight. I used a channel lock to remove it. Didn't want to, but I don't have the socket. Is the torque spec supposed to be not super tight? And what is that socket size so I can get one this week?
 
I will remind you of what Jim said about checking the sprocket. Although there is a bent retainer washer on there they can be prone to loosening up. I’ve had one do it even after I torqued it to spec.

And pics would help us a lot. It's possible to tighten the sprocket with the tabbed washer out of position.... in which case it'll always leak. Let's see what's what.
Torque on that nut is nut buster tight.... something like 90-100 ft lbs. If it's not torqued to that, it'll likely leak.
 
And pics would help us a lot. It's possible to tighten the sprocket with the tabbed washer out of position.... in which case it'll always leak. Let's see what's what.
Torque on that nut is nut buster tight.... something like 90-100 ft lbs. If it's not torqued to that, it'll likely leak.
Maybe that what it was then. If so, I imagine now the seal has to be replaced, correct?
 
And pics would help us a lot. It's possible to tighten the sprocket with the tabbed washer out of position.... in which case it'll always leak. Let's see what's what.
Torque on that nut is nut buster tight.... something like 90-100 ft lbs. If it's not torqued to that, it'll likely leak.
What do you mean about the washer ot of position? I cannot envision how it would be wrong. Put it on flat, sprocket on, torque, bend.
 
Maybe that what it was then. If so, I imagine now the seal has to be replaced, correct?
No.
It's an odd setup. The seal fits inside the cases. The inside of the seal however, seals against a steel spacer. That's not where it usually leaks. The leak comes from between the inside of the steel spacer and the tranny output shaft. The only thing preventing a leak from there is how tight the sprocket (and nut) presses against that spacer.

As I said, it's an odd setup... one of Yamaha's design, that was poorly thought out.
 
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