jd750ace
Front Toward Enemy
I would eliminate he rigid line if it's practical to do so, but that's just my 2 pennies. Less joints, less leak points.
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YL82
Perpetual Restorationist
Thanks, J.D., I will if I can do so - I'm just not sure how the connections are made and which stock front brake parts can be removed and done away with...
On your 76 it has the junction on the lower tree. Does it have the brake light switch in it? My 75 did.
If your does you can install a banjo bolt brake light switch in place of the regular banjo bolt in the M/C.
There is a guy on here selling lines all made up that one end threads right into the caliper, no steel line or banjo bolt.
A banjo bolt won't work with the early two piston calipers.
You can buy adapters that have the right threads on one end to thread into the caliper, and have an AN3 fitting to thread the braided stainless steel line onto. Here's a pic of one.
Leo
If your does you can install a banjo bolt brake light switch in place of the regular banjo bolt in the M/C.
There is a guy on here selling lines all made up that one end threads right into the caliper, no steel line or banjo bolt.
A banjo bolt won't work with the early two piston calipers.
You can buy adapters that have the right threads on one end to thread into the caliper, and have an AN3 fitting to thread the braided stainless steel line onto. Here's a pic of one.
Leo
Attachments
YL82
Perpetual Restorationist
Thanks for the great information, Leo! I'll search for the seller of those lines on here.
I'm thinking that's Yes to your question. See image showing brown and yellow wires.
This is a tad
but right now, I'm deciding on how best (grease gun or air or 5twins method of clamping and air combo) to remove my caliper pistons for inspection (will likely replace since PO or his son abused/neglected this bike).
I assume the seals are under the pistons? I prefer to use air and c-clamp to grease.
On the one caliper half, I assume I just blow air where the 10mm bolt was and on the other remove the brake bleeder screw and blow air in there to move pistons?
I'm thinking that's Yes to your question. See image showing brown and yellow wires.
This is a tad
but right now, I'm deciding on how best (grease gun or air or 5twins method of clamping and air combo) to remove my caliper pistons for inspection (will likely replace since PO or his son abused/neglected this bike). I assume the seals are under the pistons? I prefer to use air and c-clamp to grease.
On the one caliper half, I assume I just blow air where the 10mm bolt was and on the other remove the brake bleeder screw and blow air in there to move pistons?
Attachments
your caliper is completely different to the single piston one I have on my 79 . Double the work 
If I had to remove the piston again I think I would remove the brake pads and use the brake lever and master cylinder to press the piston/s out or at least part way out with system pressure. It might get messy but it sure would be easier than rigging up something to attach an air line to
If I had to remove the piston again I think I would remove the brake pads and use the brake lever and master cylinder to press the piston/s out or at least part way out with system pressure. It might get messy but it sure would be easier than rigging up something to attach an air line to
YL82
Perpetual Restorationist
I appreciate the input peanut, my friend.
The PO or rather his son had installed some crappy ass MC on the bike, so I've removed that and will replace with a MikesXS Master Cylinder for a '76 (round type reservoir).
I have considerd the grease route....I've been looking for a M10 x 1.25 Grease Fitting and I've found numerous websites that sell them, but in bulk quantities. For small quantities, they want to charge $15-$20 extra on top of the $1.36 price for each metric grease fitting. Someone on here had drilled through a 10mm bolt, then tapped a grease fitting onto it - I'm looking into doing that, but may try air first...and count my fingers afterwards...
The PO or rather his son had installed some crappy ass MC on the bike, so I've removed that and will replace with a MikesXS Master Cylinder for a '76 (round type reservoir).
I have considerd the grease route....I've been looking for a M10 x 1.25 Grease Fitting and I've found numerous websites that sell them, but in bulk quantities. For small quantities, they want to charge $15-$20 extra on top of the $1.36 price for each metric grease fitting. Someone on here had drilled through a 10mm bolt, then tapped a grease fitting onto it - I'm looking into doing that, but may try air first...and count my fingers afterwards...
YL76, Try shopping locally for the grease zerks. You should be able to get them at most any parts store. I picked up a metric 10 pc assortment for not much at the tractor supply.
On your two piston caliper, they have a passage between the two halves. This makes taking the pistons out a bit harder. There is a thread around some where explaining how one guy cut a metal spacer to fit between the two halves, turned on half upside down and bolted it back together then used air in the brake line hole for one piston, the bleeder hole for the other piston.
The metal spacer sealed the passage.
Leo
On your two piston caliper, they have a passage between the two halves. This makes taking the pistons out a bit harder. There is a thread around some where explaining how one guy cut a metal spacer to fit between the two halves, turned on half upside down and bolted it back together then used air in the brake line hole for one piston, the bleeder hole for the other piston.
The metal spacer sealed the passage.
Leo
YL82
Perpetual Restorationist
I pass a TSC on the way home. I'll check out their Zerks.
I'll try the metal spacer method to block the passage before I go the grease route though...
Thanks, Leo!
I'll try the metal spacer method to block the passage before I go the grease route though...
Thanks, Leo!
YL82
Perpetual Restorationist
Looks like I can pick one up from MikesXS for $13.50.
Where would I find one of those other fittings (w/AN3 on one end) to connect SST line to caliper?
Most of the places that sell the braided stainless steel lines sell an assortment of adapters. J&P, Dennis Kirk, Drag Specialities. The caliper end needs to be 10x1.00.
Leo
Leo
YL82
Perpetual Restorationist
Thanks! I got it in my head from a post on the Forum that I needed M10 x 1.25 (fine pitch). M10 x 1.0 is much easier to find.
The piece of line I have for the early disc brakes measure the 10x1.00.
Measure yours.
Leo
Measure yours.
Leo
YL82
Perpetual Restorationist
Will do - when I get home from work. I'm clock watching....
Found this site:
http://www.russellperformance.com/mc/brake_hoses/adapt_fit.shtml
And they are on eBay.....
Found this site:
http://www.russellperformance.com/mc/brake_hoses/adapt_fit.shtml
And they are on eBay.....
actually you might not need to go to all this trouble.
If there is enough of each piston protruding then you could probably grip the piston in the jaws of a vice and turn the caliper round pulling gently at the same time the calipers will come out eventually unless they are seized with rust in which case they are fubar anyway.
I used a pair of 10" Stilsons to grip the exposed 3/8" edge of my piston and twist it out.
It doesn't matter if the edge of the piston gets damaged even if you are reusing it but I assume you will be renewing the pistons as well as their seals ?
If there is enough of each piston protruding then you could probably grip the piston in the jaws of a vice and turn the caliper round pulling gently at the same time the calipers will come out eventually unless they are seized with rust in which case they are fubar anyway.
I used a pair of 10" Stilsons to grip the exposed 3/8" edge of my piston and twist it out.
It doesn't matter if the edge of the piston gets damaged even if you are reusing it but I assume you will be renewing the pistons as well as their seals ?
YL82
Perpetual Restorationist
in that case try the vice or stilsons it could save you a lot of hassle
YL82
Perpetual Restorationist
in that case try the vice or stilsons it could save you a lot of hassle
I had to "google" Stilson Wrench.
I know it as a Pipe Wrench or Monkey Wrench.
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I use the tapered rubber tip on my blow gun, that's all. Pressed hard into the bleeder nipple hole or the brake line hole, it will deliver enough air pressure to blow the pistons out. I start with the caliper assembled and put air to the brake line hole (bleed nipple tightened shut). With the cross-over hole between the caliper halves, both pistons will get pressure. Usually, the less stuck one will come out. Then you need to isolate the halves so air pressure stays in either one only (the one with the still stuck piston, obviously). I do that with a small square of aluminum sheet metal placed over the cross-over hole and the halves bolted back together. Now you can blow air into that side only through the bleed nipple hole or the brake line hole (which ever is on that half with the stuck piston). I think you're over-thinking this. It's a simple procedure.
YL82
Perpetual Restorationist
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