Help with Mikes xs reg/rec and simple wiring harness!

[dean martin]

Does anyone know if we need to unground the brushes. Heard if before 1980 you do not unground.

 

[XSLeo]

Mike's reg/rec is a direct fit type of thing. The wiring up part has been a bit of work, but no you should not need to unground the brushes. When doing the Chrysler reg mod, depending on which reg you use you need to unground the brushes on the 70-79 bikes. On the 80 and up the brushes are already ungrounded.

 

[dean martin]

Thanks Leo.d Testing tonight!

 

[calgarychopper]

I managed to finish fabricating my wiring harness this weekend.

Started up right away (didn't fry any wires) but I have a major oil leak coming from the clutch pushrod seal.Seems I cut the outer rubber that is bonded to the steel housing.

Luckily I had ordered two seals, but I managed to do the same thing to the second seal.After a few choice words I decided to silicone one of the seals back in.Tonight I should be able to run it again and check my charging system, set the timing and balance the carbs.

John

 

[dean martin]

Cool. Did you end up using the schematic I posted or did you do something different? I have everything wired except the battery. It was getting late and I was in no mood if anything started melting on me. Don't forget to post a pic!

 

[calgarychopper]

dean martin

Yes I looked at your schematic and was able to wire in the r/r according to your info.

I tried to post a pic in an earlier post but can't seem to figure it out.I'm as dumb as they get when it comes to computers.

I will try to get a little help and hopefully post some pics of my Yamaha and my Honda builds.

John

 

[dean martin]

I am with you. Will post once it is running. Just so I don't jinx myself.
Had a question on the ignition switch. It is 3 pole. I assume 1 is for ground and the other 2 can be used for everything else?!

 

[xjwmx]

No. One terminal is for main power in (red) and the other two are switched branches of that out. I seem to remember one branch goes to the tail light and the other goes to about everything else.

 

[dean martin]

Thanks! Had that screwed up. There are 2 close together and one by itself. Assume that is the power and the 2 close ones are everything else.

 

[XSLeo]

On your switch, some of the three position switches are off/ on/ on with lights, some are off/on/ start. The start position is for cranking the starter. Might want to check that.

 

[dean martin]

Is there any easy way to tell the difference?

 

[xjwmx]

There should be color coded wires coming out of the switch.

 

[dean martin]

This was an aftermarket ignition switch with 3 terminal screws. 1 marked G, 1 L and 1 P.

 

[xjwmx]

In that case put an ohm meter on the terminals and assign terminals that give you what you want.

 

[dean martin]

Why didn't I think of that. That's right, I don't. Thanks man.

 

[xjwmx]

Gotta make every possible mistake once, remember them, then you're a pro

 

[dean martin]

HELLLPPPPPPPP!!!!!! Finally went for it and Burn Baby Burn! The black wire from the reg/rec to the ignition started smoking the minute I turned the key to On. Any suggestions?

 

[dean martin]

UPDATE>Actually it was the black from the Alternator that started to fry!

 

[xjwmx]

Any suggestions?

Make sure you have a fuse right after the battery. I always wondered on your schematic what the wires labeled neutral switch on the alternator were doing there. Real different from mine.

 

[dean martin]

I read on other sites they were to the neutral switch and I donot have one so I capped it?! Any suggestions? John said he set it up like my schematic and it worked. I am obviously confused. Also do you mean to put a fuse between the battery and ignition switch?.