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azpunkr

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I have a 73xs650 that I just rewired.all the wiring works great but after I put my left case cover back on and hooked up my shift linkage, I went to start her and I have no back pressure on the kick lever. Also it will not go into neutral or into gear. I don't know what the hell I did but I didn't mess with the clutch push rod or anything like that so I'm freaking out. Can anyone help???
 
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The kick start uses the clutch to turn the engine. After you installed the left cover did you properly adjust the clutch? Your repair manual has a good "How To" on clutch adjustment.
This will get your kick start to work and probably fix the shifting.
Leo
 
Well Leo, I lubed the hell out of my clutch cable, took the oft case cover back off and pulled the worm gear and cleaned and lubed it. Put the cover back on and started the clutch adjustment at the handlebars then went to the adjustment at the case and for the life of me I couldn't get the lock nut loose. So I figure since I never removed anything besides the cover in the first place when I rewired it that it should be ok where it's set at since I never had any problems before I had to rewrite it. I can get it into gear and neutral now but not every time. I managed to start her up then let her get warm so I could check the oil before I took her out for a test ride and started adjusting the carbs a lil. Well she cut out and when I went to kick her almost right after she died, once more I got no response in the kick lever and it's just in and out of gear. Is it possible I maybe did something with the shift rod that the worm gear in acts with. This is killing me man since this was never a problem in the first place. What you think?
 
Well Leo, I lubed the hell out of my clutch cable, took the oft case cover back off and pulled the worm gear and cleaned and lubed it. Put the cover back on and started the clutch adjustment at the handlebars then went to the adjustment at the case and for the life of me I couldn't get the lock nut loose.

When you pull the clutch lever, do you get resistance (Like you're actuating the clutch plates) or is it like pulling "air" (for lack of a better word)?

I can get it into gear and neutral now but not every time.
From the sounds of it, you still need to adjust the clutch and you can only really do it at the worm gear so that it's getting contact on the push-rod...so getting the lock nut loose is going to be necessary. Try a little liquid wrench to loosen it up (if it's rusted).

Also, perhaps you lost the ball bearing that's in the worm gear it's only held in with grease (which presses on the clutch push-rod once the cover is back on). This would essentially not allow you to properly activate the clutch and wouldn't put enough pressure on the push-rod to push out the clutch plates.

However, this wouldn't explain how your kicker isn't getting pressure (meaning it's acting like the clutch is pulled in).

Is it possible I maybe did something with the shift rod that the worm gear in acts with.
Maybe the rod is jammed in, so as to lock the clutch plates open? I've never had this happen...but might be a possibility? With the left-side cover off...can you pull the push-rod out easily enough? Does it slide in without resistance?
 
If you have removed the clutch push rod for any reason odds are high you reinstalled it backwards, the end with a reduced diameter faces out. Or if you did not reuse the gasket on the LH cover that will change the clutch setting. A deep socket on an impact wrench is a good way to loosen the lock nut.....

http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=30871
 
I never removed the clutch push rod and yes it moves in and out pretty easily. It's also in the correct way with the beveled end out. I do get resistance when I pull the clutch and the ball bearing is still in the worm gear. I can see the worm gear hitting the clutch push rod when I pull the clutch but it doesn't seem like it's being pushed in as far as it should. I'm not sure on the exact distance it's really supposed to go but I can see the worm gear hitting the push rod and moving it in. I'm gonna try removing the worm gear to try to get the lock nut loose. I'm afraid of snapping it off somehow by cranking on it with my wrench, impact, ect. I tried soaking it in wd40 and other stuff in my Arsenal last night and hitting it with a torch to break it free but no luck. If I can't get it loose with it off the cover I guess the next option is buying a new one. Right? But since I didn't mess with any adjustments when I took the cover off the first time, would it need the adjustment anyways?. Do you have to adjust it every time you take the case over off? I just don't understand what the hell happened since I didn't even mess with any of it when I did the re-wire. Just another kick in the nuts I guess.
 
I was like you worried about using the impact wrench on that nut. But have loosened at least several with the cover still on the bike and no problems. I now loosen the nut that way before I remove the LH cover whenever I'm going in there. A quick burst on the trigger and it's off. Much better than trying to hold the arm in a vice!
 
What often works is a drywall screw gun. It has some impacting power, but not the high power of a regular impact. Many times, it's enough. The screw and lock nut are just raw steel and it's very common to find them rusted together. Before re-assembly, anti-seize the heck out of the screw threads and nut. When locking the nut down after adjustment, it doesn't need to be super tight, just a little past snug.

It's common to need a re-adjustment at the worm after taking stuff apart.
 
Ahh crap. I'm sitting here reading your replies and it just popped in my head that I have a impact screwdriver just for shit like this. Damn I'm such an idiot. Watch, I bet the first whack with the hammer it will brake loose. Just for shits and giggles if I digest it loose, adjust the clutch and I'm still not getting it into gear, what's next? Take the right cover off and start an inspection? I'm really hoping it doesn't come to that but I guess now would be just a good a time as ever since i haven't been in there yet. Oh, a real quick ? That's off this subject. The bolt that holds your oil filter on that allows oil flow through it, is there a certain amount your supposed to thread the screw that is in the center of it or do you just run it all the way in?

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That's the by-pass valve in the center of the filter bolt. Set it about flush with the top of the bolt, not screwed in all the way tight. I know, you're thinking that's loose and will maybe fall out? It can't, the cover rests near against it once installed.
 
Don't whack that adjuster nut with a hammer type impact driver. You'll risk cracking the nylon worm screw body. Remove the steel worm screw first, clamp it securely in soft jaws, then use a pneumatic driver on that nut. Avoid damaging the worm threads, inspect them after the nut is loose...
 
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