DPris
XS650 Member
Can you get to the sumo filter without heat?
-
Enjoy XS650.com? Consider making a donation to help support the site.
XS650.com receives a small share of sales from some links on this page, but direct donations have a much greater impact on keeping this site going.
How do you get to the sump filter without heat?
- Thread starter DPris
- Start date
Should be able to; remove 6 (10mm head) bolts around the perimeter of the plate and wack the plate, with a block of wood as a punch and then hit the block with a goodly sized hammer.
Welcome aboard....
Welcome aboard....
Last edited:
After all the bolts are removed, lay a piece of wood against the edge of the plate... parallel to the plate. Take your hammer and smack the crap out of the block of wood. Smack the front, the back... the sides. Eventually it'll give up.
DPris
XS650 Member
Is it possible to get to the sump strainer without the use of heat?
DPris
XS650 Member
I should explain. I'm a newbie to the TX650 . Just bought a 73 with a total engine rebuild and going through the break in period. I'm at 400m and am changing filters. See above question.
..... and when you re-install it, don't use any gasket sealer or you'll be beating on the thing next time too, lol. I just oil or lightly grease the gasket. This makes it cling to the sump plate to ease with the install, and it won't be stuck when you go to remove it next time. I usually get a few uses out of a gasket before it needs replacing, as long as I don't break it during the removal process. I just did an oil change on one of mine and the plate dropped right off as I loosened the bolts, gasket got re-used.
AndersJ
XS650 Addict
DPris
XS650 Member
Thanks for the tips. Back up and running.
I happened to use 3/4" plywood instead of pine
There was definitely some goop of some sort on the gasket. Came off in small pieces and had to WD/stone the plate to get the gasket pieces off.
All is good!
I happened to use 3/4" plywood instead of pine
There was definitely some goop of some sort on the gasket. Came off in small pieces and had to WD/stone the plate to get the gasket pieces off.
All is good!
DPris
XS650 Member
It was suggested I use heat.
I thought there had to be a better way and there was. See a lower thread and the problem was solved.
I thought there had to be a better way and there was. See a lower thread and the problem was solved.
Yep, there are many ways to skin this particular cat. and most of them even work. My personal drill is to cement the gasket to the plate,spray the upper surface of the gasket with a nonhardening sealer like Permatex Copper Spray a Gasket, and let it cure. No heat needed for removal. Give the plate a few light taps with a wood drift and it comes loose. My sump gasket has been through 7 yearly inspections and is still in fine condition. Survival of the gasket could be partly due to the thick material I used to make it.
Anyway, the worst that can happen is replacing a torn or skinned gasket--unless a PO or your own good self puts too much twist to the screws. Congrats on finding a way that works for you.
Anyway, the worst that can happen is replacing a torn or skinned gasket--unless a PO or your own good self puts too much twist to the screws. Congrats on finding a way that works for you.
This is not from experience (mine came off OK) but it seems like pounding sideways is the wrong way to go. You are working against the "stiction" of the surface in the wrong direction. (A bit like trying to drag a motorbike with brakes on. ). You need a downwards or separating force.
Two alternatives occur to me.
One is to use a short length of broom handle. As much as can be accommodated under the bike given the ground clearance. Longer gives more leverage. Insert into drain plug hole and lever off.
The other is use any pry area, and there is one.
This area (marked) does not correspond with the gasket surface.
It is almost impossible to see without a mirror, but it does correspond with a leverage point, a well-placed engine mounting bolt.
As I say, all theory, so "advice given "without prejudice".
Dave
Two alternatives occur to me.
One is to use a short length of broom handle. As much as can be accommodated under the bike given the ground clearance. Longer gives more leverage. Insert into drain plug hole and lever off.
The other is use any pry area, and there is one.
This area (marked) does not correspond with the gasket surface.
It is almost impossible to see without a mirror, but it does correspond with a leverage point, a well-placed engine mounting bolt.
As I say, all theory, so "advice given "without prejudice".
Dave
All these years of servicing my XS650s, and I never noticed that tab.Thanks!
