Thank you. This has happened only when it is over 95F. Today at 90 it did not happen. I will smear it with red rubber grease.
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It's time to start a winter Project. The Red Bike
- Thread starter Kevin Werner
- Start date
There's a steel sleeve inside the rubber bush. This keeps the bolt from squashing it when you tighten it down. Remove the metal sleeve and apply red rubber grease to the hole in the rubber bush and the outside of the steel sleeve. Re-assemble and you should be good to go.
I dont wonder if that is the cause of a shudder in both my XS650s when braking. Shudder only occurs at lower speeds as I approach a stop. 60 down to 15 or so all is good, then a shudder 15 to 5 or so.?
That steal sleave was really tight, virtually no movement, and tough to remove. A quick clean-up and a dose of grease and it moves freely now. I did a quick deglaze of the pads on a belt sander while it was apart.
I agree. Quickest, cleanest method I've found anyway
Meanwhile, you may scrub them on a piece of garnet paper. That works for me.
More dumbassery on my part. There continues to be just a little oil under the carbs. Of course when on the side stand eventually it finds it's way down the side cover and onto the new headpipes. I checked several times before but a few days ago I checked and there was a drip hanging off the guide adjuster acorn nut. I know I checked that several time...
Hopefully a clean-up and new 20mm x3mm o-ring ($2.49 at Trilling Tru Value, in same location since 1850) does the job.
I did only the eight this time because I suspected a base gasket issue. I did all 700 miles ago in winter.
It's a pain to get at but always worth checking.
This is the way....
We used to use specifically manufactured red talcum powder in 12 oz plastic squeezable tubes for tracking fuel leaks on aircraft when I was in the Air Force.
There were times in confined areas like flap wells, wheel wells, etc...that you'd go home at night blowing pink boogers out of your nose from the dust in the air from talcuming everything over and over.
It was a very, very effective method for pinpointing exact leak exit points.
There happens to be an American o-ring that fits that tensioner cap nut perfectly, and it's cheap too, lol. You can get a lifetime supply for less than $5 .....
And it's nice to have extras on hand because I've found this o-ring goes flat and leaks rather quickly because it doesn't protrude very much from it's groove in the cap nut. I find I need to change this o-ring every few years.
And it's nice to have extras on hand because I've found this o-ring goes flat and leaks rather quickly because it doesn't protrude very much from it's groove in the cap nut. I find I need to change this o-ring every few years.
So... I probably lack the full skills needed to "Search" on this thread. I played with my jetting on the VM34 and got the Red Bike running pretty good. I ended up at 20 pilots and 190 mains. A couple of links posted to me on this thread helped me direct my moves but it seems I was misinterpretting results. I did still have too much dark on the plugs and assumed it was the pilot jet because I always wander back into town at a relaxed pace. This thread from 2012 showed up recently. I hadn't found it before. As I followed it (cooming home from the Smokies 2023 Rally) realized the error of my ways.
https://www.xs650.com/threads/mikuni-vm34s-tuning-help.19322/
I went to 180 mains and 25 pilots, synced and played the air mix and the bike is better than ever.
https://www.xs650.com/threads/mikuni-vm34s-tuning-help.19322/
I went to 180 mains and 25 pilots, synced and played the air mix and the bike is better than ever.
Forum skills? At least you're tech savvy enough to post photo's, that's far more than I can do.
Earlier in this thread I expressed how this bike felt "Livelier", "lighter" than my tracker. Any body who is curious, I can post yet another picture of either. But... in another thread "Tyre wear" ( must be someone from Saskatoon) as I responded and checked MY tires (Tyres) I realized that a 100/90 18 is a much bigger tyre(?) than a 3.50 18 and the difference between the two is noticeable to an old non rider (for 25 years) like me.
Yes, fatter tires steer and turn slower. My '78 Standard came to me with a 120 rear. After I wore it out, I went back to the more correct 110 and what a difference. It steered and turned so much easier and better.
Indeed. One time I picked up a couple of bargain Dunlops at an autojumble and fitted one to the front. Nothing wrong with it, perfectly good tyre, but it was just a size too tall/wide and as soon as it wore out I gave the second one away to a sidecarist, who needed that size.
I mean, I got used to it, the slower steering, just had to wrestle the bike into the corner more, but it was far from enjoyable.
