It's time to start a winter Project.

Kevin Werner

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Yes, that's pretty common. A new seal won't help if the bushing is shot. The original was only 8mm long. The replacement from Mike's is 10mm long (better) but you can even put a 12mm long one in. That's what I do now. You can get them from McMaster-Carr for about half of what Mike's asks .....


View attachment 223687

View attachment 223688

Here's a 12mm long bushing installed and as you can see, it sticks out a little .....

View attachment 223692

But, since the pushrod seal has four little "feet" on it that hold it away from the bushing, there's no clearance issues .....

View attachment 223693
I have been sidetracked with other progress. Today I removed the drive sprocket and am trying to figure out a neat was to remove the bushing.
 

Jim

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I have been sidetracked with other progress. Today I removed the drive sprocket and am trying to figure out a neat was to remove the bushing.
Clean all the oil and grime off it with solvent, wrap some good quality duct tape around the exposed part and pull on the tape while you rotate it.
 

Kevin Werner

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Clean all the oil and grime off it with solvent, wrap some good quality duct tape around the exposed part and pull on the tape while you rotate it.
I was unclear there, sorry. The clutch pushrod bushing is now my concern.
 

Jim

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Run a tap in far enough to cut 2 or 3 threads into the bush. Grab the tap and pull.
Edit: Doesn't need to be a metric tap... just one big enough to cut.
 

Jim

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Cut.....


1667775681135.png



Pull....


1667775736450.png
 

Mailman

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That looks like a much better method than the one they used to promote. Which was running a drill bit that was just slightly too large, in until it just catches and spins the bushing. I did that and was worried it would fall off inside the case while I was extracting the drill bit.
 

Jim

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That looks like a much better method than the one they used to promote. Which was running a drill bit that was just slightly too large, in until it just catches and spins the bushing. I did that and was worried it would fall off inside the case while I was extracting the drill bit.
We had some brass (oilite actually) bushings on a jet I used to work on... F111's, that got replaced pretty regular. That was the preferred way to do it. Usually about the second or third thread cut the bushing would start spinning. Just keep cutting and start pulling at the same time. Easy peasy.
 

5twins

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The bushing is split down it's side. Locate that split and drive a small screwdriver or awl into it next to the split, between the bushing and the hole it's in. This will collapse the bushing into itself, releasing it's hold, and you can then easily "pluck" it out with needle nose pliers. That's how the original in my pic got removed.
 

Kevin Werner

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On a humourous note, the seller did indicate there was always an oil drip from the left side. I believe he was a good and honest guy and a little over his head here. The previous, previous owner (PPO?) had black RTV'd a dennse foam patch against the leaking seal. That the RTV was firmly attached suggests vigorous cleaning to hide the failed seal. I laugh a little because perusing this sight I knew to look for this and I knew that I could deal with this problem
Thank you all.
16677806073475739797882949574837.jpg
 

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removing special seat mounts, cut side cover mounts and build77/78 side cover mounts,
Are you sure you need to do that? My 79 Special had an odd mix of plastic and steel sidecovers and it turned out the pre-79 covers fit the Special tabs nicely and fit the retaining hole at the bottom, too. They look much better than the plastic ones, in my view also.
It's possible the SpII may be differeent at the top, of course.
 

Kevin Werner

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Are you sure you need to do that? My 79 Special had an odd mix of plastic and steel sidecovers and it turned out the pre-79 covers fit the Special tabs nicely and fit the retaining hole at the bottom, too. They look much better than the plastic ones, in my view also.
It's possible the SpII may be differeent at the top, of course.
My Special II covers slope down and back along the top edge and the mounts on the frame follow that contour. I will figure a bottom latch at the stock location then fab the top mounts. Edited to add I looked at the 79Special in the Tech Section "Identification " thread and it clearly has the old style side cover mounts. The change came in 1980 it seems.
16678294063733558287668422120304.jpg
 
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Kevin Werner

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Kevin Werner

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My Special II covers slope down and back along the top edge and the mounts on the frame follow that contour. I will figure a bottom latch at the stock location then fab the top mounts. Edited to add I looked at the 79Special in the Tech Section "Identification " thread and it clearly has the old style side cover mounts. The change came in 1980 it seems.View attachment 229272
As a side note, the sharpie circle in that picture outlines a dent that happened in shipping from a member here. I took some steps outlined in this forum, laid the sidecover on a thick cardboard base and used a hardwood 3/4 inch x 2 x 10 piece of lumber to gently tap out the dent. The painter will have a little work, not much, to offer smooth final piece. I hope I am not scaring @Jim away here.
 

Kevin Werner

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I recieved most of my front end parts so started anew on fork tubes. I find the Maguires Diamond cut 2 or 205 (40-50% cut on a 0-100% {Maguires scale} scale for abrasive)auto body polishing compound gets a pretty good finish. As directed by others here I started with a fine Roloc disc then the compound . I smear the compound on the part and move slowly with a 6 inch buffing wheel a 3600 rpm (rinse/repeat). Each of the tubes will get one more coverage, the white compound on a clean buff wheel. The dampers got the Minton Mod drilling. New seals are here, tapered rollers ready to install. After assembly I can install hub and axle to do a forkbrace fitting.
20221112_161810.jpg
 
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