-
Enjoy XS650.com? Consider making a donation to help support the site.
XS650.com receives a small share of sales from some links on this page, but direct donations have a much greater impact on keeping this site going.
It's time to start a winter Project. The Red Bike
- Thread starter Kevin Werner
- Start date
https://www.mikesxs.net/yamaha-xs650-h-1-85-x-19-x-36-hole-front-rim-and-spoke-package.html
I want to match the rear rim I got from @halfmile.
Attachments
Last edited:
Disassembling forks... Am I better off leaving them in the triple clamps until the tubes are bare? I have caliper and tubes to drain.
Yes. Do you have the tools to remove the damper rods?
I was just trying to spend more of your money
https://www.mikesxs.net/19x1-85-36-spoke-excel-shouldered-aluminum-wheel-rim.html
or
http://www.buchananspokes.com/products/excel_shouldered_aluminum_rims.asp
https://www.mikesxs.net/19x1-85-36-spoke-excel-shouldered-aluminum-wheel-rim.html
or
http://www.buchananspokes.com/products/excel_shouldered_aluminum_rims.asp
Depends. I have a soft jaw vise I like to use for stuff like that. If you don't have one, leavin' 'em in the triple works. Mind you don't wrestle the bike over on it's side.
Last edited:
No I do not have the tools. I have extensions, I can go to next door neighbor and weld a hex tip to an old socket. I am new at this stuff but learning.
On the left is 17 mm. It fits on a 20 in 3/8 extension to hold the damper rod.
On the right is 8 mm from MikesXS. It fits the bolt on the bottom of the fork assembly.
Note:
The torque spec in the factory service manual for that bolt is incorrect. I believe 14.5 ft lbs is correct.
Excellent. Thanks. Somewhere I read find 17mm hex nuts and thread them onto rod.
Yes, the top of the '78 and later damper rods has what looks like a 12 point socket on it .....
It takes a 17mm hex of some sort. Now, if you have access to a welder, you can weld a 17mm nut to a bolt and make your own tool .....
But there's also a very nice little tool available made for VWs, and it's not too expensive .....
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003LIX22G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You have to hold the damper rod from spinning on both removal and install. For removal, Yamaha put thread sealer on the bottom bolt so it usually threads out hard the whole way. For install, you need to hold the damper rod so you can properly tighten and torque the bottom bolt.
It takes a 17mm hex of some sort. Now, if you have access to a welder, you can weld a 17mm nut to a bolt and make your own tool .....
But there's also a very nice little tool available made for VWs, and it's not too expensive .....
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003LIX22G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You have to hold the damper rod from spinning on both removal and install. For removal, Yamaha put thread sealer on the bottom bolt so it usually threads out hard the whole way. For install, you need to hold the damper rod so you can properly tighten and torque the bottom bolt.
Release the top triple clamp bolts BEFORE! trying to remove the fork caps, the clamping force makes it very hard to remove caps.
Yes, loosen the caps (you don't have to remove them) with the tubes still in the triple trees, then you can remove them. It should go without saying but I better say it because folks do it - DO NOT clamp the lowers in a vice around the round part, you'll squash it oval and ruin the lower. Clamp it on the caliper mounts, or do as I do and set up a spare triple tree assembly clamped in the vice to hold them .....
desmoman900
650 Society Director
Best of luck and take photos as you progress, please
Adventure in lacing a wheel. 9 on the outside 9 on the inside, left and right (top and bottom?). Get the tube valve hole right, what could go wrong.
Unlaced the hub and started polishing. 1/2 hour. Who would thunk they clear coated the hub too? Yes, I am a bonehead.
Last edited:
Maybe, but you ain't the first one.
I got the front hub flanges to a pretty decent polished state and decided the center would get paint. Warning- more dumb-assery ahead. So I got out the "Machinery Grey" (Who knows why I have a 3/4 full can) and shot the hub center. Fixated on the center I missed some overspray on the spoke flange. 1st dumb-assery move. Now, the paint is cured and I attack the overspray with, A buffing wheel to make really shiny machinery grey, B 400grit to leave too many scratches, and finally C steel wool. Notice two Dumb assery move there?
It gets better. The front engine mount always seems look, well, worn. This is a full fender build so it came off weeks ago and this week I cleaned it up, dusted it off and shot a coat of gloss black. I saw "fish eyes" immediately so Dumb-assery move waited 15 minutes and reshot the part. More fisheyes. Waited a day, sanded it down, wipe it down with acetone and re shot it. Better. I hope I have expended all the dumb-assery for the entire forum and you all can go on with projects and never make dumb mistakes. Pics soon. Still cleaning u0 the edges, then new polishing.
It gets better. The front engine mount always seems look, well, worn. This is a full fender build so it came off weeks ago and this week I cleaned it up, dusted it off and shot a coat of gloss black. I saw "fish eyes" immediately so Dumb-assery move waited 15 minutes and reshot the part. More fisheyes. Waited a day, sanded it down, wipe it down with acetone and re shot it. Better. I hope I have expended all the dumb-assery for the entire forum and you all can go on with projects and never make dumb mistakes. Pics soon. Still cleaning u0 the edges, then new polishing.
Last edited:
@mm1ut1 came over with an 8mm hex I needed to disassemble the forks (hint I really just needed a second set of hands) with out clamping them in a vice. Now I am ready to clean them up. Internally, hot soapy water and a rifle bore brush. Externally, Aircraft Stripper and maybe a die grinder with a fine roloc pad. I will have to revisit the "polishing" thread.
