Thanks, that had crossed my mind too. I think I will give that a go.Diesel... $3 or so for 1/2 gallon at the pump...Heat the barrels, then pour some diesel in.
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Just Picked this Up Today!! 1971 Yamaha XS1B 650
- Thread starter JonW
- Start date
Kinda looks like a weld bead top left?????
No, no attempted weld beads yet! That's the evidence of my attempt at knocking off the remnants of the jagged metal from the spark plug with a flat edge. Superficial at this point.
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wasn't accusing you, a PO's shenanigans?
a PO's shenanigans?
I think I'd be tempted to take a punch and knock the center electrode and ceramic through into the cylinder, then try an easy out on the plug shell.
I hate easi-outs!
I knew one guy who snapped one years ago, then had to buy a diamond tipped drill to get rid of the easy out.
I'd punch out the ceramic then use a drill, die grinder, and finally a hand file to remove what remains.
Let's face it, it will be a miracle if the original thread survives.
You'll most likely end up with a helicoil insert.
I knew one guy who snapped one years ago, then had to buy a diamond tipped drill to get rid of the easy out.
I'd punch out the ceramic then use a drill, die grinder, and finally a hand file to remove what remains.
Let's face it, it will be a miracle if the original thread survives.
You'll most likely end up with a helicoil insert.
My first thought
Make a tool like a flat screwdriver of a flat bar .With the width slightly smaller than the spark plug metal. Outer Diameter .
Dremel tool grind away the center and then that same Dremel to cut slots in the broken spark plug metal.
Not hitting the threads.
Inserting the flatbar screwdriver and then try to get it to rotate
I soak things in Oil before and long times .. tilt the machine or motor so the plug is horizontal makes oil stay there
during the soaking process.
And some heat helps.
Make a tool like a flat screwdriver of a flat bar .With the width slightly smaller than the spark plug metal. Outer Diameter .
Dremel tool grind away the center and then that same Dremel to cut slots in the broken spark plug metal.
Not hitting the threads.
Inserting the flatbar screwdriver and then try to get it to rotate
I soak things in Oil before and long times .. tilt the machine or motor so the plug is horizontal makes oil stay there
during the soaking process.
And some heat helps.
https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-...rymNL0QP_2c3ZbPxIFRoCd3MQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
This works well if the threads get buggered.
This works well if the threads get buggered.
Pull the motor and the head.
If you started that way, you'd have the plug out by now.
The ceramic drives out EASILY from the combustion side out the top, once the crimp is off, your crimp went with the snapped off plug top.
If you started that way, you'd have the plug out by now.
The ceramic drives out EASILY from the combustion side out the top, once the crimp is off, your crimp went with the snapped off plug top.
Well, I went ahead and did that but for the time being, the plug shell is still in the head. I've tried my Easy Out and Craftsmen Extractor tools with lots of heat and lube and can't get it to budge as of yet. I feel like the goof that tried to get it out previously, which caused the jagged edges to dig into the aluminum is probably the barrier that is stopping it from turning. I am considering using my air impact wrench but leery of breaking the bit.
Yes, I'm definitely going to have to do that.
Pull the motor and the head.
If you started that way, you'd have the plug out by now.
The ceramic drives out EASILY from the combustion side out the top, once the crimp is off, your crimp went with the snapped off plug top.
True, but with other projects in the way and nowhere to put the engine, with no space left on my workbench, I really would like to get it out with the engine still in the frame. No worries if it comes to pulling it. This wasn't a planned project but of course, it is now thanks to my inability to control myself!
NEVER happens to me; walked out to the shed with a brake line part for the XJ11.
Three hours later I had sharpened and cleaned two chainsaws and did LONG overdue maintenance on the air compressor.
Never did get to the XJ...
chainsaws cuz dead ash everywhere needs to be cut. How the rest of the day disappeared.
SWMBO, not bad for 60 years old.
Three hours later I had sharpened and cleaned two chainsaws and did LONG overdue maintenance on the air compressor.
Never did get to the XJ...
chainsaws cuz dead ash everywhere needs to be cut. How the rest of the day disappeared.
SWMBO, not bad for 60 years old.
Cut through the plug body to threads, even a little head aluminum with a little Drexel on one cut, pinch the head/her to break it free. That fails, make a cut 180 degrees to have 2 halls. The kit mentioned in post 48 will open the hole to turn in a threaded sleave.True, but with other projects in the way and nowhere to put the engine, with no space left on my workbench, I really would like to get it out with the engine still in the frame. No worries if it comes to pulling it. This wasn't a planned project but of course, it is now thanks to my inability to control myself!
I drilled out the center of the plug today. My extractor just won't budge the remnants of the plug. It's definitely seized to the head. Another important reminder is to use anti-seize on plug threads or any time steel is threaded into aluminum! Anyhow, I got the hole opened up and will finish up with the spark plug rethreader kit listed earlier by teamWicked
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Look for a timesert kit with a tap like this one. Uses what's left of the existing threads to guide the tap. Much more user friendly.
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