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- Oakville, Ontario
Looks like there wasn't a cotter pin in there, but I had a small one that I stuck in and bent up.The brake stay just needs to be snugged up and the cotter pin replaced (if you have one) or reuse the old one if it's still serviceable.
That's pretty much all I've ever gone by.Bike traced well when i let the bars go going along the road so thats all i used to do.
Yes, within reason, as Jim says. And when you set the chain, tension, don't make it too tight. I don't think it should be called chain tension, it should be chain slack. It won't matter if you can move the chain up and down a fair bit - within reason - as long as it's not so slack it can jump off the sprocket. Too tight is bad for the chain, the sprockets and the gearbox.So if I'm getting this right, it seems I could do the alignment ride test before I worry at all about the chain tension (within reason)?
Yes, that's a good method.I also saw something about measuring from the swingarm pivot to the center of the rear axle on both sides and if the numbers are even then the alignment is good; I have everything off that's in the way of doing that so I can do that as well. Then, set the chain tension. Tighten axle and rear brake rod. (And Get that front sprocket washer flattened.) Then put everything else back on and test ride for alignment. That work?
I would.Also, there was some goo on the chain rollers already on the new chain I got. You think I should lube it anyway?
I'm assuming you have a socket for the axle nut then?Issue with that is that I have to take the muffler off (which is a real pain cuz it doesn't like coming off or going back on) to get at the axle for tension adjustment,