The caps that came with my Boyer have nice tight fitting rubber caps. I've been caught in a few hard rains with no problems.
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Miss November XS2 tribute
- Thread starter Raymond
- Start date
5T, you were spot on, I sent a mail to the BB tech support, their reply quoted in full below:
Thank you for your inquiry.
We have found the NGK LZFH spark plug caps are listed as a non-suppressed type, they will cause problems like the 'cutting out' experienced.
An electrical multi-meter with a resistance (Ohms) range can be used to check plug caps by measuring from each end. The meters internal battery must be in good condition for the measurement.
The spark plug caps for Digital/Power ignition systems must have 5000 ohm (5K) suppression resistors built in.
We recommend NGK LB05F spark plug caps for these ignitions, the 05 is the suppression code.
Our part No: PLUG00133. NGK Plug Cap, Plastic 5K, right angle, LB05F.
Price is £3.85 ea inc vat +p&p. They are available in red and black colours.
Kind Regards,
Boyer Bransden.
Very prompt and very clear. So I have refitted the caps I had before, but used the rubber boots from the LZFH. Happy bunny now I know why the bike stopped and that the problem is now sorted.
Thank you all for your help and suggestions.
Thank you for your inquiry.
We have found the NGK LZFH spark plug caps are listed as a non-suppressed type, they will cause problems like the 'cutting out' experienced.
An electrical multi-meter with a resistance (Ohms) range can be used to check plug caps by measuring from each end. The meters internal battery must be in good condition for the measurement.
The spark plug caps for Digital/Power ignition systems must have 5000 ohm (5K) suppression resistors built in.
We recommend NGK LB05F spark plug caps for these ignitions, the 05 is the suppression code.
Our part No: PLUG00133. NGK Plug Cap, Plastic 5K, right angle, LB05F.
Price is £3.85 ea inc vat +p&p. They are available in red and black colours.
Kind Regards,
Boyer Bransden.
Very prompt and very clear. So I have refitted the caps I had before, but used the rubber boots from the LZFH. Happy bunny now I know why the bike stopped and that the problem is now sorted.
Thank you all for your help and suggestions.
Yes, you can measure the resistance through the cap with a multi-meter. NGK plug caps are usually labeled on the side but it's just lightly printed on there and can wear off over time. If you're running plain non-resistor plugs now (NGK BP7ES), switch to the resistor type (BPR7ES).
Today, the 32,631 mile service. The mileage don't mean much but it's 1,500 miles since the last one.
Took the alternator cover off in order to move engine to TDC and noticed a pair of indents or notches on the edge of the rotor.
I don't remember these. Does this mean the rotor is breaking up?
I realise this may be a stoopid question . . .
Took the alternator cover off in order to move engine to TDC and noticed a pair of indents or notches on the edge of the rotor.
I don't remember these. Does this mean the rotor is breaking up?
I realise this may be a stoopid question . . .
This is a ‘79. I think you’re good if I read correctly.
Marty, Bob, thank you - looks like we're good and there's nowt to worry about. Goodness, that's a clean motor.
Mine still looks just as it did when I brought it home from the junkyard nearly 20 years ago. I'm finally doing something with it.
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. . . and the garage . . .
The notches are where the coil wires are soldered to the slip ring plate.
Thank you, Jim. Much clearer to see on a clean rotor than an old and dirty one. I was worried mine might be breaking up.
Got a few last service items to complete today, mostly checking fasteners for tightness:
Got a few last service items to complete today, mostly checking fasteners for tightness:
Service done and dusted. Noted that dipped beam has failed - couple of days ago. This must be fixed as I like to run with dipped beam on. Looked in the book to check the bulb size.
Yamaha factory manual says the bike has a sealed beam unit. Yikes - available on ebay from USA for cough, splutter.
Haynes manual says some XS have sealed beam, others have an H4 bulb. Oh well, better pull the headlamp out and see what we have. Phew, it's a bulb. Two H4 bulbs now on order, for less than a tenner. Gotta have a spare . . .
Yamaha factory manual says the bike has a sealed beam unit. Yikes - available on ebay from USA for cough, splutter.
Haynes manual says some XS have sealed beam, others have an H4 bulb. Oh well, better pull the headlamp out and see what we have. Phew, it's a bulb. Two H4 bulbs now on order, for less than a tenner. Gotta have a spare . . .
Every XS650 I've ever seen came with a Koito sealed beam. Many have been converted to H4 I'm sure. The sealed beam is very durable, but not particularly bright. Having an H4 with spare lamp is a fine idea.
Yes, I convert mine to H4 units too. I put one in my '83 from another Yamaha, an XS850 triple. I scored a nice complete assembly (bucket, chrome ring, headlight) off eBay for about $25. Since an aftermarket H4 headlight alone costs around that, I thought this was a good deal, and it's genuine Yamaha. The chrome ring is the same part that's used on the 650 and it's nice to have an extra one of those.
Three things today.
A while ago, the engine braking seemed to go absent without leave. Just the once. Haven't noticed it again until this morning - approaching a junction, seemed like there was no engine braking. So I had to use the brake, and if anything the engine seemed to be pushing the bike on. On the way back home, experimented with closing the throttle and coasting down hills. I might be oversensitive but it felt like there was less retardation than I was expecting.
First thing I did at home was adjust and lubricate the throttle cable. Unhooked it from the handlebar block and put good ol' H-D gearbox oil down the cable. On reassembly, adjusted till there was just slight play at the grip before the throttles lift. And checked that they snap shut on releasing the grip. Seems to snap shut alright, there's quite a heavy return spring.
Are there other possible problems? Such as the slides sticking? Is that a thing that happens? Went out again this afternoon and the problem did not rear its head again.
Second thing, changed the rear brake fluid. Long overdue. Been meaning to do that since buying the bike but, ahem, the rear brake is never my top priority. The old fluid must have been really old, it was the colour of stewed tea:
Kept flushing it through till it was coming out as pale, fresh fluid. So that's a mixture of old and new - the old fluid was very dark.
Third thing, just occurred to me again today how much I am enjoying the six-fifty. A forty-three year old relic with an old fashioned, torquey engine. But have built up enough trust that I can jump on and go for a run any day and every day.
A practical classic? Maybe.
A while ago, the engine braking seemed to go absent without leave. Just the once. Haven't noticed it again until this morning - approaching a junction, seemed like there was no engine braking. So I had to use the brake, and if anything the engine seemed to be pushing the bike on. On the way back home, experimented with closing the throttle and coasting down hills. I might be oversensitive but it felt like there was less retardation than I was expecting.
First thing I did at home was adjust and lubricate the throttle cable. Unhooked it from the handlebar block and put good ol' H-D gearbox oil down the cable. On reassembly, adjusted till there was just slight play at the grip before the throttles lift. And checked that they snap shut on releasing the grip. Seems to snap shut alright, there's quite a heavy return spring.
Are there other possible problems? Such as the slides sticking? Is that a thing that happens? Went out again this afternoon and the problem did not rear its head again.
Second thing, changed the rear brake fluid. Long overdue. Been meaning to do that since buying the bike but, ahem, the rear brake is never my top priority. The old fluid must have been really old, it was the colour of stewed tea:
Kept flushing it through till it was coming out as pale, fresh fluid. So that's a mixture of old and new - the old fluid was very dark.
Third thing, just occurred to me again today how much I am enjoying the six-fifty. A forty-three year old relic with an old fashioned, torquey engine. But have built up enough trust that I can jump on and go for a run any day and every day.
A practical classic? Maybe.
I had the same thing with my XS2, it accelerated great but felt like it had no engine braking. It was my idle hanging up, not that it didn’t come back down to idle rpm, it just did it too slow. I decided I had an air leak at my butterfly shaft seals. Pulled my carbs apart and checked the seals ( which were not very old ) they were soft and pliable and showed no wear. I cleaned everything up and smeared dielectric grease in the seals and the butterfly shaft where the seals ride and reassembled my carbs. Took care of my hanging idle.
If @GLJ and @gggGary are any indication....
I did a 2200 mile trip on mine in 2002. I believe I'd be willing to jump on my XS650SK and ride it anywhere right now. I might first check my tire pressures.
Sticking slides? I try to remember to put an oz. or two of MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil) in my tank at every fill up. I can see the lubrication evidence when the airboxes come off.
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I think so. Back in the 80's I had a '78 XS that took me from Florida to New Mexico multiple times (as well as a Norton). Carried nothing but the factory tool kit under the seat and as I recall, a chain adjustment was all I ever had to do. Just as reliable as sunrise. The '80 I have now gives me the same feeling of just jump on it and go. These ol' bones of mine aren't up to those of my youth, but I've no doubt my bike could make the trip today if I asked her to. The muffler rattle might drive me up the wall though....
I used to do that too. Sounds like a habit I'll pick up again.
Never had a personal recommendation for MMO. Isn't it just snake oil? Or does it actually do some good, like lubricate the carbs?
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