need help identify electrical

The black box, from what i undertand is a Newtronic ignition module. The rear fender and the gas tank i think is from some Harley softail model. Alot has been done to this bike... The more i look at it the more strange things i see. Anyway, my plan is to build something around the engine which i really like. The frame is going to be a hardtail. it was when i started to look at the electrical i realised that something was strange. In the clymer there where no scheme that matched. Now i´m trying to figure out how i will make the electrical ignition system to work with all these old and "new" parts. All lights, turnsignl, horn etc i will wire up compleatly from scratch

Thanks again for all your help. Really nice forum :thumbsup:
 
There's a great thread started by INXS on some wiring diagrams that covers just about anything imaginable once you get to that stage.
Your bike is what appears to be a "bitsa"......bits of this and that. There's not much about it that says its a 1982 but a hell of a lot that screams 1981....lol. No matter, welcome aboard!
 
On wiring I like diagram #4 on the thread mentioned.
It shows a basic points system. In boxes are the later TCI and combo reg/rec. Starter upper right corner.
To hook your ignition in just hook it after the kill switch of that diagram.
As mentioned testing what you have before spending money is a good thing. You may find everything works and you won't need to spend anything.
In your repair manual there are test procedures that cover all of your charging system. Follow the procedures and you will find out what needs to be replaced.
You can get new 3 phase rectifiers for a few bucks on Ebay. OIder Chrysler regulators for less than $40. A bit of wiring and you hsave a great system.
You will find these upgrades discussed in the TECH section.
Leo
 
5twins said:
This should explain your coil needs .....

http://autocar-electrical.co.uk/newtronic-product-guide

Don't buy that reg-rec, it's expensive junk.
Click to expand...

Aha. Thanks. So any 12v coil with 4 ohm would work. Even a sportster coil. I guess i keep my regulator and rectifier for now. The recetifier kan be placed in a box but the regulator needs air to cool, right? About the condenser. Can i just throw that Peace away?
 
Or even the stock ones on 3ohm and up. Maybe even 5ohm? Sorry, just trying to learn as much as possible :)
 

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I'm not familiar with the Newtronics system but most electronic ignitions don't require condensers. You could check with them to be sure.

I wouldn't buy any of the coils you linked to. They're all Chinese and of questionable quality. I think you'd be better off with some brand name aftermarket coils or nice used O.E.M. Jap ones from some other bike. I wouldn't get original 650 coils, they're pretty weak. It appears that ignition system requires 2 single fire coils, not one dual fire.
 
Ok, so i did a little electrical work yesterday just to see that everything workes. The ignition system works. It fierd right up. The charging system works as well. But, it backfiers as hell! And when i twist the throttle and let i go it takes some time before the engine react and go back to idle. Before i took the bike apart this was no problem. What could cause this? i have the same carbs and exhaust as before.
 
IronFist Quote;
" The recetifier kan be placed in a box but the regulator needs air to cool, right? "

No, its the rectifier that needs a heat sink and it should be open to the air. Regulators (stock type , not PMA types) run cool without a heat sink.

Hanging idle..................probably air leaks around the carb intake area. Mixture screw needs to be tuned for best idle.
 
Thanks!

The mixture screw is set to 2.5 turns. I'm running pods and not stock exhaust (not open exhaust). The spark plugs where black. Do that indicate to rich mixture?
 
Looks like you have BS34 carbs. I recommend you take the carbs apart and remove the pilot and main jets, in order to identify what size jets you have. The PO may have larger jets that required, and that will make the mixture too rich. Also confirm the rubber plugs are in the carbs.
 
Your black plugs could be caused by starting using the choke. It will blacken the plugs real quick.
 
Ok. Yeah, i have only started it with the choke and as the bike is not ready to ride i only had it running in my garage. Could the backfiering have something to do that i feed gas directly to the carbs, not via a gastank. I turned down the mixture screw half a turn and the backfire almost disappeared..
 
Usually, backfiring goes away if you open the mix screws more. Backfiring is usually a lean indicator and opening the screws makes things richer.

The U.S. market BS34s like 3 to 3.5 turns out on the mix screws. I don't know what version of carbs you have. If they are the "world market" version with the adjustable slide needles and 130 air jets then they could very well require less turns out on the mix screws.
 
5twins. I turned the mixture screw out to 3 1/4. No backfire at all now and it responds really well on the throttle! Started with no problem without choke as well!
 

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