Oozing oil through the head gasket, re tighten the bolts?

[gggGary]

That little guy above the cam tensioner; a 1/4" drive 10mm socket a 1/4 U-joint connector, as long of a 1/4 extension as you have and a short drive handle will get that little rascal. I have had several leaks from that area on various engines, sneaky little leaks too, the oil wanders around the cam tensioner and often ends up looking like a base gasket leak.. Yes IMHO on any 6mm it's an educated hand thing, countless guys have snapped off sump bolts with torque wrenches and stripped a stud out of the RH exhaust valve cover.

 

[xjwmx]

I love that kind of response.....I let it serve me as well. Facilitates ongoing sharing of ideas.

If you've got one guy giving evidence and another guy giving contrary evidence, and a third guy says it's this way or that way, it doesn't matter what you say to him

 

[jurgenkoppen]

If you've got one guy giving evidence and another guy giving contrary evidence, and a third guy says it's this way or that way, it doesn't matter what you say to him

Because those who made up their mind already and know a.k.a: are certain off, are at times not open to new information....because the conclusions drawn with closure are not open to further inquiry...That is why I like the response you gave, it keeps things open.

 

[member3480]

I am doing a top end over for a guy who had it done last year and it now poured out oil from head. Things to look for if you do pull it apart is any marks or bumps that may have happened when someone used a screw driver to break top end apart A piece of glass is a great tool to see if its a flat or not. Also check your threads and run the bolts down threw them with some anti seize .Poor or week threads won't help and last don't get crazy if you are using some gasket sealer with the gaskets. This head had two bolts broken and plenty of marks on jugs and head that would not let it sit flush and the 10mm bolt in back just sitting in there No Threads. Do it once and take the time to look at everything . Regular gaskets will help but copper gaskets have NO MERCY. When I do race motors I use all new bolts because bolts stretch over time and some cannot be tightened to spec because they lost there strength. So if its hard to get to spec replace it don't tighten it more.
Good luck with your project

 

[hooser]

I always take a good file usually 1-2" and gently run over the gasket surface on the head and rocker top, the key is gently no pressure on the file, if will fine the imperfections, gouges etc. After you put the new gasket in and torque , warm the bike up to temp. Shut off and let cool over night torque the head again. do this 3 time, Do not over rev. the engine come up to temp gradually just let idle. Do not forget the bolts under the spark plugs. Tighten the 10mm ones 1st them the 8mm. Never had a leak by doing this.

 

[jurgenkoppen]

So far I did not take off the head, but followed above advice and retightened all nuts after loosening them first. Test drive , and I saw oil oozing out of the right side intake valve chamber bottom nut. I had done the valve clearance recently, and I know the rubber in there is not enough. So I used sealant, but it still comes through the nut hole. So I undid it, and sealed it as well with washers and sealant. We'll see if that was the culprit all along...hoping..

 

[Wingedwheel]

jurgenkoppen If it was coming out of a valve cover nut, I would tend to suspect the valve cover gasket? I think you can use the gaskets vs the rubber o-ring. Might make a difference.

 

[xjwmx]

We'll see if that was the culprit all along...hoping..

If I needed new o-rings there I might make due for awhile by almost filling the groove in the cover with Pematex Motoseal and let it dry to make more o-ring protrude. Best not to use silicone sealer on motocycles.

 

[jurgenkoppen]

So my topical valve cover nut sealant job did not fix it. I still have oil over the whole engine. I do have some gasket material kicking around. Should I cut some of that and leave out the o ring, or leave it in?

 

[Wingedwheel]

No need for it with a gasket.

 

[Bob Kelly III]

what's it going to hurt ? leave it in there... I did on mine and no leaks !
.....
if that Nut that you are taking about is one of the ones over the rubber coated washers you probably won't stop the leak that way....
you'll need to get soft brass washers at the hardware store and replace the rubber washers .....
you know to re torque the head again after several miles right ?
.....
Bob

 

[gggGary]

Clean that area with solvent then start motor and watch closely. A bit of talc or flour dusted on the area helps make the oil path clear. NEW valve cover o-rings seal and seal WELL (plug for Gary's o-rings LOL). DO not start reefing down on those 6mm valve cover studs they will strip out off the head....... There is also a seal and a gasket behind the cam covers, either can leak. that lonely little 6mm stud above the cam chain tensioner can show up over at the valve cover also.

 

[5twins]

The 3 hole covers can be fitted in 3 different positions. Sometimes they seal better one way than another, don't know why. You might try that. Also, sometimes flipping the o-ring over helps. That presents a fresh, unworn side out.

 

[gggGary]

The factory was sloppy with the clear coat, drips on the valve cover face are common keeping them from fitting tight to the engine.

 

[Bob Kelly III]

when I had my valve covers off I noticed that the ears where the bolts attach were slightly bent in a tiny amount...
I very carefully took a file and flattened the surface once again ( o-ring off) the will allow the O-ring to properly seat and prevent leaks
.... along with that I added a coat of gasket sealer on the flat surface ...simply because I didn't want any more leaks anywhere.
and there were none...
Bob......

 

[5twins]

Wait 'till you go to take them off again, lol. There will be swearing involved .....

 

[Wingedwheel]

Gasket sealer Bob?, You might be filing down the pry marks next time...

 

[Bob Kelly III]

Yah ! no doubt.... but it don't leak a drop ! !!!! LOL
.....
Bob.......

 

[jurgenkoppen]

Clean that area with solvent then start motor and watch closely. A bit of talc or flour dusted on the area helps make the oil path clear. NEW valve cover o-rings seal and seal WELL (plug for Gary's o-rings LOL). DO not start reefing down on those 6mm valve cover studs they will strip out off the head....... There is also a seal and a gasket behind the cam covers, either can leak. that lonely little 6mm stud above the cam chain tensioner can show up over at the valve cover also.

Hey Triple g Gary, thank you for that pointer. I did this, after re-torquing the head bolts to spec a second time. Cleaned the motor with solvent, and I used some sander dust , wood flour. And voila, the leak is still at the valve cover.I will fix it with gasket material. And there is a bit of an ooze coming out from the 2nd, lower stud sticking out in the bottom front center behind the oil pipelines. These 2 studs, bolts whatever their title, have copper washers, and I am about to look up what their function is,and what the torque requirement might be.

 

[5twins]

They are the bolts holding the front cam chain guide in place, M6 in size, about 7 ft/lbs of torque. That's the little bolts. The big nuts/bolts they go through, I don't know, you'll have to look that one up.