Open Barrel SPLICE video

DogBunny

Motorcychologist
Messages
4,109
Reaction score
6,438
Points
513
Location
Austin, Texas
There has been a lot of info on Open Barrel Connectors on this Forum, but I have never seen anything about Open Barrel SPLICES... so I created the following demonstration video:


I'm using the 63130-2 splice. If you buy 100 they should cost about $0.15 each shipped, which is a little pricey, but that seems to be the best price at this time.
If you are in a bind, and you just need a single splice, you can take an open barrel bullet or spade connector and "make" your own splice by cutting of the ends.
 
Last edited:
Thanks, yes, that is me.
Here is the $11 connector kit that I bought:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/113225319834
And here is the heat shrink solder splice kit:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/142898781070 -- thanks to whoever first posted it.
The heat shrink solder connectors are fine for a quick repair, but for new wiring on a new build or re-build, everything should really be open barrel.
 
Last edited:
I'm using the 63130-2 splice. If you buy 100 they should cost about $0.10 each which is a little pricey. I looked at some other vids, and most other people seem to be using crimps without the little metal "handle," like these, which are cheaper:
https://www.amazon.com/CONNECTIVITY-485043-1-TERMINAL-BARREL-SPLICE/dp/B00MMYFX5O
Okay, so I just ordered myself some new splices. Spent a lot of time looking at the tech drawings of all of the different offerings, and the only ones that will fit the same crimpers that we are using for our bullet and spade open barrel connectors is the 63130-2 splice. Going to edit my initial post accordingly.
I checked all of the different sellers, and the best price is from Mouser:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-AMP/63130-2-Cut-Strip?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvz8LftK4jerrXamft2U6PwJjfZXp1dMew=
100 splices cost me just under $15, shipped. A bit spendy, but that's the best you can do.
 
Okay, so I just ordered myself some new splices. Spent a lot of time looking at the tech drawings of all of the different offerings, and the only ones that will fit the same crimpers that we are using for our bullet and spade open barrel connectors is the 63130-2 splice. Going to edit my initial post accordingly.
I checked all of the different sellers, and the best price is from Mouser:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-AMP/63130-2-Cut-Strip?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvz8LftK4jerrXamft2U6PwJjfZXp1dMew=
100 splices cost me just under $15, shipped. A bit spendy, but that's the best you can do.
What crimper are you using and does it come with bullet connectors as can you get it as a kit
 
Here are the bullets:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/144067637546?hash=item218b19b12a:g:ZaoAAOSw2gxY0fz5
Found those with a very quick search -- shipping is s-l-o-w... If you search further, maybe on Amazon, you can find them from a U.S. seller. Depends on how long you want to search -- a lot of sellers do not call them "open Barrel," lots of chaff to winnow through.
Here's a crimper:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/282152283321?hash=item41b1962cb9:g:AhYAAOSwv2JXwp3f
Again, search around long enough and you should be able to find it from a U.S. seller. Search for SN-48B or SN48B, and look for ones with blue handles.
 
48981-0.jpg
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806983934296.html?
Found these the other day. These are different from the stock-type splices that I originally posted, but they have a huge advantage.
The stock splices crimp once -- you need one hand to insert the left wire, one hand to insert and hold the right wire, and your third hand to operate the crimp tool. With these, you hold and crimp one side at a time, much easier done with only two hands.
 
View attachment 345830
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806983934296.html?
Found these the other day. These are different from the stock-type splices that I originally posted, but they have a huge advantage.
The stock splices crimp once -- you need one hand to insert the left wire, one hand to insert and hold the right wire, and your third hand to operate the crimp tool. With these, you hold and crimp one side at a time, much easier done with only two hands.
I’m sorry but I don’t understand this. I there an advantage over butt splices? My go to is naked butt splices and heat shrink. I’m always up for learning another way. I have the dies for open barrel crimping. You’re crimping twice? Once on each end?
 
I’m sorry but I don’t understand this. I there an advantage over butt splices? My go to is naked butt splices and heat shrink. I’m always up for learning another way. I have the dies for open barrel crimping. You’re crimping twice? Once on each end?
download.jpg

I assume you mean that you are using the butt splice version of this. Open barrel connectors are vastly superior. They make a connection that looks exactly like factory. They make an incredibly reliable crimp, just like factory-crimped connectors -- zero chance of making a crimp that looks good but isn't. They crimp the wire in one place, and crimp the insulation in another place, taking the strain off of the connector, and preventing the insulation from sliding back. They make as low-profile a connection as is possible.

With the splice connector in my original post, the wires overlap in the connector (exactly like factory splices), and you crimp once, witch is usually unwieldy because you have to hold two wires and the tool. With the splice I just posted, the wires butt up to each other -- the connector is double-ended. You crimp one wire at a time into one side of the connector at a time.
 
With the splice I just posted, the wires butt up to each other -- the connector is double-ended. You crimp one wire at a time into one side of the connector at a time.
Okay, that’s where you had lost me. I’m with you now. I may give them a go.
Inexpensive butt splices have a seam in them. I have to be careful where the seam is when I crimp. Otherwise, I never had trouble with butt splices when proper tooling is applied.

Side note: A few years ago at the Vintage Yamaha Rally I was looking at over a dozen XS1100s with upgraded fuse boxes. Most were connected with flag terminals. Almost all of them improperly crimped. Wires could pull out with fingers quite easily.
 
Out of curiosity, what's a "flag" terminal?
1741892887616.jpeg


The wire goes in sideways. Flag terminal dies are required.

I know this because the location of the XS1100 fuse box lends itself to flag terminal being the best option with a blade fuse replacement box. I have never used a flag terminal on an airplane.
 
Back
Top