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I'll toss in here that I opened a 70 speedo whose pointer was spinning wildly and scraping the back of the bezel. Since you can't "uncrimp" an early gauge I found a coping saw did a quick, clean, VERY thin cut of the plastic housing. Will be simple to glue back together with a bit of black bumper epoxy, my surgery should be basically invisible.
@TwoManyXS1Bs
Missing a round toit, mechanism not repaired yet.
Big thanks to Rustie for sharing his procedures. Last week I had the same faceplate screw loosen up and fall out in my '82 speedo.
I cut the PVC casing with a coping saw as Gary suggested; this made a nice clean cut that was less than one mm wide, so I didn't have to reset this gap. That is, I just glued the two pieces back together directly, making sure to scuff all surfaces well with 200 grit sandpaper.
I used JB Weld quick set Plastic Bonder that seemed to bond tightly to the scuffed surface; I tested the bond after an hour by trying to lift the glue with a utility knife. My only complaint is that it was a bit more runny than I preferred.
Kept the gauge attached to the lower portion and just vacuumed the plastic particles out with a strong shop vac.
Having a newly-cleaned bezel glass was almost worth all this work!
I reused the forward portion of the oem foam rubber damper internally for stability (the exposed portion had withered), then added a properly sized O-ring to finish off the installation.
If you decide cutting the housing is your way in, (I vote for unfolding the bezel flange)
A coping saw makes an easy job of it, will create a lot less plastic dust, not good for fine gears n such, and the slot will be MUCH thinner.
I'd also think about making a fence on the inside of the slot using a strip of gorilla tape to reduce the chances of glue getting in where it shouldn't.
I would also suggest plastic bumper epoxy as the glue.
An early speedo I opened with a coping saw before I found the (70-71 only) bezel can be unscrewed.
