Opening up a speedo/tach

114mm pipe/tube cutter is around $200.00 here.........cheaper to get a second hand gauge
https://www.totaltools.com.au/11616-ridgid-48-116mm-quick-action-tube-cutter-31652

Yes those are expensive like gold
But they are very commonplace every pipe shop or steel builder construction site have them
Since 50 years or more
As well as Ridgid pipe bench
So I would try to take it to such a place . If I should try. a cutter.
On construction sites ---at least usually they would help out and cooperate.
Since next week they need borough a sheet metal tool I can have
Here the equivalent to a bag of Donuts would help.
But usually they don't want that for a small quick help
Would also be possible to cut it in a lathe i suppose.
 
You *could* cook-up some sort of Dremel router table, to make the cut uniform and straight...

DremelRouterTable.jpg
 
The pipe cutters would crush the housing before you made one round. Just minimal pressure on a schedule 10 pipe makes it deform, not to mention you would then have to hold against the gauge and turn the cutters (or vise versa). It wouldn't be pretty. I'd say hacksaw or cut off wheel is best if you're going to cut into it. I'd say his method is pretty solid as long as the epoxy holds.
 
The pipe cutters would crush the housing before you made one round. Just minimal pressure on a schedule 10 pipe makes it deform, not to mention you would then have to hold against the gauge and turn the cutters (or vise versa). It wouldn't be pretty. I'd say hacksaw or cut off wheel is best if you're going to cut into it. I'd say his method is pretty solid as long as the epoxy holds.
Hot wire?
 
Is a case, (pun), of being careful and methodical. All the instructions are in a link i posted early on

This was the first time I removed and reinstalled a bezel. Took pics of the second one as i did it.

I understand it is not everyone's way to do this or have the touch

Pic of the 2 side by side. left one has been removed and reinstalled. right one is factory, before i removed it.
3 a comparison of before and after.JPG
 
....I'l be that guy
_resampled%2FSetRatioSize1280846-RC42S_in_use_down.jpg
I’ve actually used one of those. This is roughly the same system we used at Amphibious Construction Battalion 2 (USN ACB2) to cut the pylons for the ELCAS modular elevated causeway/pier system. Also had one that beveled the cut at 45d with oxy/acct torches.
 
Did you replace the rubbers where the chrome cup attaches to the gauge. I ask because usually if they are good and tight,the rubber damper, you bought, is squashed a bit more. if they are a bit loose the gauge will vibrate more and it destroys out the gauge damper faster
 
Did you replace the rubbers where the chrome cup attaches to the gauge. I ask because usually if they are good and tight,the rubber damper, you bought, is squashed a bit more. if they are a bit loose the gauge will vibrate more and it destroys out the gauge damper faster
The bolt bushings? I replaced ALL the rubber insulators. The big ones were all but dissolved/melted. The bolt insulators were really hard.
45DA2F45-8975-4221-94EA-A2E7961FC5DB.jpeg
 
Nice job on that instrument. Tried that way on a Smiths magnetic clock once.
The Chronometric speedos are a little easier if you can unscrew the chrome top ring, but what’s inside is more complex.
DB07C154-A8A3-4FF2-8190-A668846F8EB6.jpeg
 
If the housing actually is PVC, it should be possible to weld it, using a hot air gun with temperature controller and a small nozzle. Good ventilation or a suitable mask is strongly recommended, as PVC may release nasty fumes
 
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