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Painting Tins. No really...
- Thread starter Jim
- Start date
Fantastic work as always!
Man! They never looked that nice from the factory! Great job!
Damn!....made me dizzy. Still bug-eyed from the paint job too
Beautiful Jim - just beautiful.
Pete
Pete
Very nice, you really do some good work. Thanks for sharing those pictures. To see results like that it has to inspire others to save these old bikes. I know it does for me.
I'm glad I'm on my epilepsy meds otherwise I might be flapping like a crappie
Damn Nice !!Well crap.... I'm almost scared to put these up here.... don't want folks thinkin' it's all about me.
So... yeah.... not sure who painted these.... weren't me... I jus' painted my thumb....
Pssssttt..... don't tell that Georgia dude. He might jus' blow another gasket...
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But eventually you might forget what color the caulking is
It's kinda' like driving a race car, you have to exeed your limit, then back off a tick. The good news is, unlike exceeding your limit on the race track which may result in a nasty encounter with the guardrail, exceeding your limit with paint just means sanding runs out.
Go for it! I find it very gratifying too! It's like most things; proper equipment and practice. Nowadays there's so much good info out there to avoid a lot of the "school of hard knocks". Learning to adjust the gun pattern and get the speed (pass) and distance right take a bit of time.
Runs: easier to scrape them first then sand some. I'm sure 46th knows that(way more than me). Base coats aren't a problem in that regard - it's the clear coat. Now too light a clear coat; that's a lot of sanding. Jim and 46th likely forgot such fixes - they don't make them to begin with.
No, I still haven't fixed my bubbles, but they haven't changed either
Yeah, scraping is the best 1st step. I like to take 1/2" 3M green fine line tape and put it on each end of a single edge razor blade leaving about a 3/8" gap in the middle. This localizes the "shave" and prevents gouging with the corners of the blade, and always keep the blade perpendicular to the run. Also, you can use this method for trash removal and if you ever get fisheyes, you can dab dots of clear then "shave" them prior to wet blocking. Can't speak for Jim, but I make mistakes on a daily basis. The difference between me and guys who are hobbyists, is that I have already figured out, or have been taught how to fix those mistakes.Go for it! I find it very gratifying too! It's like most things; proper equipment and practice. Nowadays there's so much good info out there to avoid a lot of the "school of hard knocks". Learning to adjust the gun pattern and get the speed (pass) and distance right take a bit of time.
Runs: easier to scrape them first then sand some. I'm sure 46th knows that(way more than me). Base coats aren't a problem in that regard - it's the clear coat. Now too light a clear coat; that's a lot of sanding. Jim and 46th likely forgot such fixes - they don't make them to begin with.
No, I still haven't fixed my bubbles, but they haven't changed either
Nope, Superman I ain't. I get my share of sags and runs. What I've always done (was taught) is put some masking tape on either side of the run to protect the good paint... and then drag a razor across the run. It's just the way I've always done it... never gave it much thought.
I had a run I needed to take out today, so I tried 46's method of putting the tape on the razor instead.
Holy crap that works much easier. This is officially my go to method now....
Even ol' dogs.....
Yup...definitely logged that trick in my memory bank. I thought I was such a rookie and painting hack, getting runs in my clearcoat, that I would never admit it to anyone. Now I know!
The blade scraper works even better if ya put a little "hook" on the edge - hone one side across a tool steel a bit: old woodworker trick.
I've got a "nib file", but I mess up with that more than I fix usually.
I've got a "nib file", but I mess up with that more than I fix usually.
Yeah, I haven't had a lot of success with the nib file. You know how when you get a really heavy run and no matter how hard you try, if you get it in just the right light, you can see a little waviness? Try this. Shave the run as flat as possible then with a small aluminum block (1x1' or so) sand it with 800 grit wet. Then take a wide chisel tipped black Sharpie and blacken out the area. Sand again with 1000 wet and you will see what you missed. Keep repeating with 1500, 2000 etc until it's gone. I'm not kidding, this works awesome. Practice on an old part to get the feel of it. Of course, if you want it to run it will be the best paint you ever laid out.
And here's the gratuitous mockup pic.
Paint's been curing for about a week now. Should be safe to wrap up and ship this week.
Paint's been curing for about a week now. Should be safe to wrap up and ship this week.
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