Poor battery charging, next steps?

You can still jumper +12 to the lower brush see what you get. The rectifier tests are easy
 
If it were me, I think I'd go ahead and swap that regulator out for a newer solid state one. At least that would rule it out as a culprit... and give a better charging system.
That's the next step if I can't get things right with a proper adjustable VR. I've got a handful of solid state VR115 regulators hanging around as we collect and restore AMC/Nash vehicles.
 
Update- installed a cheap Amazon voltmeter and got some real numbers while riding. With the headlight off, the readings are what I would describe as "normal"- I get up to 14.2V at 3000 rpm. But with the headlight on, I'm seeing a max of 12.6 or so at speed, it drops to 11 and change below 3000. I wish I had an ammeter (that's what I grew up with- Dad put one in every car). When the adjustable VR shows up I'll do some more data collecting and tweaking. I'd like to be able to run the stock headlight full time and not worry about draining the battery.
 
Update- installed a cheap Amazon voltmeter and got some real numbers while riding. With the headlight off, the readings are what I would describe as "normal"- I get up to 14.2V at 3000 rpm. But with the headlight on, I'm seeing a max of 12.6 or so at speed, it drops to 11 and change below 3000. I wish I had an ammeter (that's what I grew up with- Dad put one in every car). When the adjustable VR shows up I'll do some more data collecting and tweaking. I'd like to be able to run the stock headlight full time and not worry about draining the battery.
Is V meter looking at battery terminal voltage? At 12.6 there is zero charge. Generally 13.2 + is in charging range, depending. 14.2 sounds nice. I use AGM battery, never checked voltage. I would prefer on every bike a switched lighting system...ie be able to switch off lamps, as things were once. Actually three switches, tail. brake, head...depending on if I am being chased down by bandits, er cops. ;)
 
Update- installed a cheap Amazon voltmeter and got some real numbers while riding. With the headlight off, the readings are what I would describe as "normal"- I get up to 14.2V at 3000 rpm. But with the headlight on, I'm seeing a max of 12.6 or so at speed, it drops to 11 and change below 3000. I wish I had an ammeter (that's what I grew up with- Dad put one in every car). When the adjustable VR shows up I'll do some more data collecting and tweaking. I'd like to be able to run the stock headlight full time and not worry about draining the battery.

Is V meter looking at battery terminal voltage? At 12.6 there is zero charge. Generally 13.2 + is in charging range, depending. 14.2 sounds nice. I use AGM battery, never checked voltage. I would prefer on every bike a switched lighting system...ie be able to switch off lamps, as things were once. Actually three switches, tail. brake, head...depending on if I am being chased down by bandits, er cops. ;)
What is the chance you have dirty contacts in you lightswitch and/or ignition switch? When I first started chasing electrical gremlins on my '77 the good folks on this forum recommended I check those 40+ uear old items. Each did need cleaning and resulted in less loss through the switches.

That cheap digital voltmeter is good assurance that your charging system is working. My cheap digital is velcroed in place. It does go wonky when it gets wet (2day trailer ride through rain) but returns to normal after it dries out. YRMV

I just saw your post in Carb thread.
 
Last edited:
What is the chance you have dirty contacts in you lightswitch and/or ignition switch? When I first started chasing electrical gremlins on my '77 the good folks on this forum recommended I check those 40+ uear old items. Each did need cleaning and resulted in less loss through the switches.

That cheap digital voltmeter is good assurance that your charging system is working. My cheap digital is velcroed in place. It does go wonky when it gets wet (2day trailer ride through rain) but returns to normal after it dries out. YRMV

I just saw your post in Carb thread.
Now that it's spoken of, I had a main ignition with lose screws, and it fubared everything.
 
Now that it's spoken of, I had a main ignition with lose screws, and it fubared everything.
My '81 Red Bike is 42 years old, my '77 is 46 years old. Good chance I am the only one to ever look at those items on my bikes. Thanks to other forum members for pointing that out to me. This forum rocks.
 
Back
Top