price tag on rebuilding carbs$$$

Jasonbobb

XS650 Addict
Messages
172
Reaction score
0
Points
16
Location
Michigan
So I'm looking at Mikes xs and I'm relizing that it can get real exspensive to rebuild my bs 34's. I got the basic stuff comming but if I have a bad diaphram ro something,, WOW$$$$. Is there another source for parts,, I've been searching adn haven't found one.
 
I just found out about JBM diaphragms. I couldn't afford sending my carbs away to be rebuilt. It's actually pretty cool rebuilding them yourself. I did the pinesol soak after disassembly. Figured out what I needed after and you save a bunch of dough. Get to know your carbs as well.
 
I've been working on brining an basket case back to life. It's been uphill the whole way. Finally get to start it up, put a little gas to it and the gas T between the carbs is leaking. They just generally need to be cleaned and some ne o rings and gaskets.
 
Usually more labor than parts. Throttle shaft seals, float valves or at least the o-rings and a polish of the seats, remove the idle mixture plugs check brass floats for leaks, set float heights. I always like to do the washer under the taper jet mod on BS34s. Good luck!
 
I've been working on brining an basket case back to life. It's been uphill the whole way. Finally get to start it up, put a little gas to it and the gas T between the carbs is leaking. They just generally need to be cleaned and some ne o rings and gaskets.

I hear ya on the basket case. I bought a basket case P.O said it was a runner. Turns out it was locked up. I new it was when I took it home. Not a lot of 650's round these parts. Took it home anyway.
 
On rebuilding carbs I like to tear them down clean and inspect the parts before I order anything. Rebuild kits often don't have the right parts in them. for our bikes. The BS34 carb was used on many bikes but with many different internal parts. The kits don't have all the parts used on all the different bikes.
Once you tear down, clean, inspect you will know just what you need and can buy just those parts. This can save a lot of frustration on reordering parts.
Often just tearing down and cleaning are all that is needed. The gaskets are very robust and can be reused several times. Other things like o-rings can be gotten seperate from a kit.
Read the carb guide, www.amckayltd.com/carbguide.pdf Print it out so you can have it near to hand when working with your carbs.
On cost it can be as little as a few cans of spray carb cleaner, or as much as it takes.
The diaphrams in your link are JBM Industries diaphrams. So feel free to order them.
Leo
 
Last edited:
Usually more labor than parts. Throttle shaft seals, float valves or at least the o-rings and a polish of the seats, remove the idle mixture plugs check brass floats for leaks, set float heights. I always like to do the washer under the taper jet mod on BS34s. Good luck!

I have BS38's. What seat polishing are you referring to gggGary?
 
What seat polishing are you referring to"
Well the older I get and the more of these I do, the more likely I am to buy new float valves but.......... Chuck a Q-tip in your drill, put some chrome polish on it and polish the seat in the float valve body. rinse well with carb cleaner. Buff the end of the needle also, make sure the spring is free and still has decent tension, I have seen weak springs in the needles a few times. Always; all new fuel lines and clamps.
On the BS34's carefully remove the float valve bodies replace o-rings, clean the screens.
 
Thanks for the tip on the float valve spring. The carb i'm working on now (one at a time) The valve spring is seized up. You just replace them, right? Is there any way to get them to spring again?
 
Put a little sea foam in a bottle cap, put the spring end in the puddle.
I don't completely submerge them, just enough to cover bout 1/2 way up the needle.
Let it soak for a day.
I think they get jammed or slow to respond because of varnish build up in the hole.
 
I used some Fluid Film. Soaked it in a bottle cap. It freed up a bit. Fluid Film is good stuff. Used it to free up my locked up motor.
 
I think WER was referring to the BS34 float needles. They have a rubber tip so you try to keep that away from harsh solvents. Your BS38 float needles are all metal so you can soak the whole thing. A soak in carb cleaner should un-gum that stuck pin, flushed afterward with something mild like WD40 or kerosine.
 
spent most of last night on here with you guys and on Youtube, Found some great vids,, thought I would share. He must be on here casue he gives this site and the carb guide big props. Thanks so much for the input and Knowledge. Sometimes when you have a great site like this at your finger tips with years of experience and knowledge in it, it almost feels like cheating on a test,,LOL,, Thanks again.


This guy did several videos that are great,, Very hands on and to the point.
 
Oh,, started to tear down my carbs and check things out, Float bowl height is fine,, things seems really clean, Some play in my throttle shaft seals in both carbs,, really not sure how much is ok. Got a small kit comming like, Float needles, bowl gaskets.
 
Jasonbobb,
Look closely for any scraping of the butterfly valves on the inner throat. This would indicate excessive
wear of the throttle shaft bores. New seals are a temporary fix.
 
The scraping of the butterflies can be wear on the throttle shaft and bores or some one had them apart and didn't align the butterflies properly. This lets the butterflies rub and you will see scraping.
Leo
 
Back
Top