Problems starting my TX650

[shade]

How long did the bike sit? I'm not sure how much experience you have and I don't have much myself so I find when I do things like spark test etc. it's good to do it a couple of times to make sure I haven'e messed it up. To me it sounded like it could be a carburetor problem because the bike sat for a few months and carbs may need cleaning? That being said, listen to the other guys on the thread they all helped me get my bike running, they know so much and are incredibly helpful.

 

[Cyclehead]

Chiming in late...if the bike sat for a while, I've seen points quit working after sitting. I have a Ford 8N tractor. I'd replace the points, get it running fine. Park it for a year. Next year the points refused to carry any current. They looked fine. Sandpaper and contact cleaner never helped. Replacing the points fixed it. Of course that was a creaky old 6V system.

 

[Ron]

This is my first XS. The carbs were just rebuilt and balanced. Electrical issues are always a bit of a pain to figure out. No matter with a car or a bike. The principals are usually the same.
The points look like they have been on the bike for some time so I have a new set on order. I checked both coils and they seem to be pooched as well.

 

[5twins]

Many replace their stock points set-up with electronic so good used stock coils should be easy to come by. I wouldn't buy new ones. Chances are, you'll be putting a Pamco on the bike in a year or two and the stock coils can't be used with that. It is rather odd that both your coils are bad though. What has you thinking that?

 

[Ron]

Just checked the coils again. Got a new meter. I measured across the primary and got a reading of 4.6 on both coils. What was interesting is that after trying to start the bike without any success I thought I would take another reading. This time I only got a reading of 2.4. Took some pics.
Still not getting any spark down at the plugs. The plugs are new as well.

 

[5twins]

Here's the test procedure from the manual. I think you need to unplug the coil wires from the harness before testing .....

Note that the secondary testing is not done through the plug cap as you did. That would add the cap's resistance to your reading. Also, it's orange to plug wire, not brown (R/W). I'd remove the plug wires from the coils. Then you could test the wire and cap resistance too. Plug caps can and do go bad. Their resistance starts climbing and if it gets high enough, it will choke off the spark. It will also give you the chance to make a fresh connection. Snip 1/4" off the plug wire so you're connecting into some fresh wire. You can do the same at the cap end.

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

... I think you need to unplug the coil wires from the harness before testing .....

Yes, otherwise your test will include all the other circuits in the harness, and give you lower readings...

 

[Ron]

Checked the primary and secondary again. Got good readings as seen in the pictures. Snipped the ends off the plug wires by 1/4 inch to give a cleaner connection before Checking the reading as well. Rechecked for spark and still no spark. Just recharging the battery before retrying.
As a side note ...,, I replaced the right hand switch earlier. Thinking that a wire got crossed I Checked all connections and made sure that all was secure. Everything was good and connected properly. I thoughy maybe something may be wrong with the run/off (kill) switch.
Also wondering what this little capacitor looking thing is witch is located under the gas tank between the coils. Picture of it is attached.
Just want to thank everyone so far for helping me trouble shoot this issue : )

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

You can do a 'finger flick' test of the ignition.

Wire everything back up, leave the plugs out, but still plugged into the plugcaps, bodies laying on the fins for grounding.

Rotate the engine to where the top/right point is closed.
Switch on the ignition.
Finger flick the top/right point open, let it snap closed.
(I use my fingernail to catch the corner of the point arm, and flick it open.)
Watch for sparks in the point gap and the right plug.

If no spark in the point gap during this, check wiring and connections to the point, good grounding of the points plate.
If spark in the point gap, but nothing at the plug, suspect coil, hi-tension components, plug.

Then, do the same for the lower/left point...

 

[Ron]

Alright......cool. I did the "finger flick test. I got spark at both the point gap and at the plugs. Both sides. : )

 

[Ron]

Just found what I believe is my problem. My points aren't opening and closing as I try to start the bike.

 

[5twins]

Your coils appear to be good. As long as they're getting 12V fed to their brown wires from the red or R/W harness wires, they should work. That only leaves the signal from the points telling them to fire. If the points aren't working, the coils aren't going to spark. You said earlier that when you turned the key on, one coil was getting hot. That would indicate it is getting the 12V to it's brown wire and that it's points set is making contact when closed. That cylinder should spark.

 

[Ron]

Have to set up and adjust the points.

 

[Ron]

Your correct the coils are good.
After noticing that the points aren't opening and closing I realized that they need to be set up.
Just have to figure out how ......

 

[Ron]

Thanks - TwoManyXS1bs - your finger flick helped me out imensely.
Now the question is .......
After installing new points...How do you set and adjust them.

 

[Ron]

Have to thank every one actually
I am learning a lot by going through this process. .......

 

[5twins]

The shop manual will explain the points and timing adjustments but here it is in a nutshell .....



The factory shop manual is on-line here for free. It is the '78 and newer version but the points and timing stuff is the same for your model .....

http://www.biker.net/

 

[Ron]

Thanks. First thing on the agenda for tomorrow.

 

[Ron]

Hey guys,
Just wondering ....... Does the timing have to be reset when changing the points ? I changed the points and recapped. But sure if I need to go through the motions of redoing the timing as well.

 

[5twins]

Sometimes yes, sometimes no. You just have to check it and see. The timing will change slightly depending on the points gap. Install new points and set the gap different than the old ones, the timing will be different.