Real Estate Update

Sharing my lessons learned....I'll shut up after this one. Don't ask me how I learned this the hard way. Your builders I'm sure are aware of this, but they may not care if someone else is doing the insulation. Prior to installing the ceiling metal, install rigid pvc soffit baffles (not the cheap styrofoam ones). These stiff baffles won't fall apart when blowing in the insulation (or when trying to staple them into place).
 

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Sharing my lessons learned....I'll shut up after this one. Don't ask me how I learned this the hard way. Your builders I'm sure are aware of this, but they may not care if someone else is doing the insulation. Prior to installing the ceiling metal, install rigid pvc soffit baffles (not the cheap styrofoam ones). These stiff baffles won't fall apart when blowing in the insulation (or when trying to staple them into place).

Oh yes - those are definitely part of the spec. - and thanks for the thought.

Feel no obligation to shut-up either. I'm a big believer in more brains working on an issue rather than fewer.

Pete
 
Can us dummies chip in too?
Long ago when I did a 100x200 pole barn for my retail store. I used the pole barn panels, but at about 4' above the floor, I installed a wire "raceway" around the perimeter on a 2x6 purlin turned vertical. The " " because it was just made from a couple of stock pole barn siding trims, the wire was installed in PVC conduit inside the "raceway". 10' conduit so a double box every 5'. So easy to open the tin cover and add circuits and special use outlets. Even a compressed air outlet system.

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Can us dummies chip in too?
Long ago when I did a 100x200 pole barn for my retail store. I used the pole barn panels, but at about 4' above the floor, I installed a wire "raceway" around the perimeter on a 2x6 purlin turned vertical. The " " because it was just made from a couple of stock pole barn siding trims, the wire was installed in PVC conduit inside the "raceway". 10' conduit so a double box every 5'. So easy to open the tin cover and add circuits and special use outlets. Even a compressed air outlet system.

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Cool idea Gary - I like it!
 
That lack of a toilet might prove to be an issue after all! I guess you keep a slop jar in there.
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1 empty windshield washer fluid bottle
3/4 PVC pipe and one of my wifes old flower pots
And an old milk delivery case for the 5 year old
When I first installed it I just let it drain in a small hole I dug (grass didn't like it much)
Now dug down deep / crushed rock in the hole and ya got it (Iwant to find some how to be able to just push a small button which will then play the sound of a toilet flushing)
My wife approves / maybe not so much the we man using it but when a guys gotta go ...

I don't know how I managed to post the picture twice I guess I must stutter when I'm posting
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1 empty windshield washer fluid bottle
3/4 PVC pipe and one of my wifes old flower pots
And an old milk delivery case for the 5 year old
When I first installed it I just let it drain in a small hole I dug (grass didn't like it much)
Now dug down deep / crushed rock in the hole and ya got it (Iwant to find some how to be able to just push a small button which will then play the sound of a toilet flushing)
My wife approves / maybe not so much the we man using it but when a guys gotta go ...

I don't know how I managed to post the picture twice I guess I must stutter when I'm posting
View attachment 223585View attachment 223586View attachment 223587

Now THAT is a darned good idea Mikey!!

Pete
 
How did it come out? Could you post a couple of pictures @Grimly ?

Pete
Part of the walling. The uprights are 2x7 and 8' high. With an OSB panel either side of them the wall turns into a fairly solid construction which is well capable of supporting the ceiling / floor of the upstairs mezzanine space.
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With a coat of paint or two it really works well and I can put shelves anywhere.
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You may be able to see how I made the ceiling beams into inverted-T beams, which when covered over with 3/4" ply flooring with a screw every six inches, turns the whole floor structure into a very solid thing indeed, with no bounce.
 
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I'll likely do drywall, but I have been considering this PVC product:

https://trusscore.com/blog/superior-drywall-alternatives-for-your-garage-walls.html
I like the PVC panels and looked into it myself, gets pricey quick unfortunately depending on the size of install. Currogated metal panels look weird to me when top to bottom, although I’ve seen some cool mixes of drywall from ceiling to about 3’ from floor and then corrugated metal panels covering the bottom 3’, looks good and protects the most banged up area of the shop. Wood planks to me always look cool as hell and gives a vibe, but not a quick easy install. Not my garage but dig the look.
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Well, the next chapter in the Great Canadian Pole Barn saga has begun!

On Friday, the electricians showed up, followed by the in-floor heating guy and they worked together to dig two separate trenches (required by the Ontario Building Code I think) and by the end of the day, they had installed the gas line and the electrical line.

Digging at the end of the summer is VERY tough hereabouts as the soil is heavy clay and it has been hot and pretty dry for a while now so the stuff is like concrete. They were both using picks to dig up clods of earth. Anyhow, here are some photos - enjoy!

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That’s a big a$$ gas line Pete. How big of a heater are you installing? I want to do that here too before the show flies. Looking good! You’ll enjoy many hours out there this winter.
 
That’s a big a$$ gas line Pete. How big of a heater are you installing? I want to do that here too before the show flies. Looking good! You’ll enjoy many hours out there this winter.

The heater isn't very big really - but the gas pressure is extremely low for this type of service (like ounces / sq. inch) - and so to get sufficient flow rate, the lines are big. Also, because they are buried, they are armoured against some ding-dong with a shovel.

…..like me.

P
 
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Howdy gents!

Well, the Great Canadian Pole Barn project is coming together nicely now. The 220v / 100 A electrical service is fully installed and operational (I will complete the wiring of the interior and exterior myself), the 2" styrofoam insulation for the in-floor heating has been laid down and the working fluid tubing has been installed and stapled to the foam. The gas line is run out from the house and is poking up into the barn near where the little boiler will be installed. The tubing is now pressurized to 60 psi and will be monitored for leaks for a few days prior to the pouring the concrete floor cap.

We are just about ready for the steel mesh and concrete floor to be poured - and that is scheduled for Tuesday Sept. 13th. Here are the photos of the progress of yesterday and today:

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The electrical panel is now in-place and live.

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The styrofoam floor insulation was delivered this morning at about 9:30 AM...
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...and then it was laid-down over the carefully raked and leveled sand base and the heating tubing was laid out in equal-length circuits (three in all) and then the tubing was stapled down and pressurized to 60 psi to check for leaks....

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You can zoom in on the neat little three-circuit manifold where the tubes come up out of the floor...

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Note that there is styrofoam that extends vertically down below the bottom floor plate and up to a point above where the concrete will be laid - this helps retain heat within the interior of the barn.
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Cheers,

Pete
 
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Looking good! Where the pipes come out of the poured floor to the central manifold....when they did mine they put each heat tube through grey PVC 90 degree curves. That way the expansion/contraction of the concrete won't rub on the bare heat tubes where it exits the concrete, plus it added some protection against anything catching the tubes. Maybe it's no big deal, but thought I'd mention it as it caught my attention.
 
I though you guys operated on 110 volts, or is that just over the border in America? What about Alaska and Hawaii do they operate on 110 volts also

220 typically supplied to the house and circuits split into 110V. Larger appliances like stove, a/c run at 220v.
 
I though you guys operated on 110 volts, or is that just over the border in America? What about Alaska and Hawaii do they operate on 110 volts also

All of North America operates on 110-120v @ 60 Hz (you folks are at 50 Hz, I think) but for high power applications like welders and larger air conditioners, they wire it at 220v to hold the current down.

Electrical power is basically voltage X current - so higher voltage => lower amperage draw.

As for the 90 deg. elbows, yeah, I am going to mention that to the installer.

Pete
 
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