Yup - that is what one of the construction guys suggested and when you consider that it doesn't need taping and mudding nor does it need to be painted.....pretty attractive alternative.
P
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Real Estate Update
- Thread starter Downeaster
- Start date
Yup - that is what one of the construction guys suggested and when you consider that it doesn't need taping and mudding nor does it need to be painted.....pretty attractive alternative.
P
What if you were to install a 60 or 80 gal vertical compressor? You'd want to bolt that to the floor, correct? You won't want to be drilling holes in the floor after the fact. Best to mark where it goes right now. Coordinate with heat installation man.
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I used OSB for all the sidewalls this way I could mount pretty much anything I wanted anywhere I wanted to the walls just by using screws to anchor whatever to the wallsHokey dokey sportsfans: after a few days hiatus, the boys are back working on the pole barn.
This morning, the excavation folks arrived with their machine and began digging out the sod and topsoil down to a depth of about a foot or so. They will then lay-in about 5-6" of fine gravel/sand which was delivered by a tandem-axle dump truck earlier today. That material will be carefully leveled and tamped after the topsoil is removed.
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I am pretty happy that they aren't chewing up the lawn too badly - even though they've put a tandem axle dump truck going back and forth across it a few times. I guess we'll see how a concrete mixer truck works out....
Tomorrow, the in-floor heating chap will come and lay down 2" of styrofoam insulation on the gravel/sand surface and he will install the network of heating pipes (in three circuits or "zones") and he will also bring the natural gas service out from the house to the barn. Then he will install the boiler (it is about the size of a small coffee maker) and the circulating pump - all on a board screwed to the inside of the barn structure.. The electrician will come at the same time and put the service in from the house and he will install one duplex 110v receptacle, so that I will have some power and lights out there. I will complete the wiring myself later.
The excavation guys will come back later this week and lay a steel mesh down overtop of the heating pipes prior to placing a 4" concrete cap on the floor and power-troweling it to ensure a slight down grade out the front door for drainage. They will also pour an 8' x 8' concrete pad in front of the overhead door (so that when I pull up on my bike and had to get off to open the door, the sidstand doesn't sink into the ground) and they will make a 2' wide sidewalk along the front and down the side of the building toward the man-door and a 4' x 4' pad in front of the man-door.
After that - the construction guys will come back and put-in a steel ceiling and I'll have insulation blown-in up there to help with the heating bill in the winter. I will also insulate the walls (myself) with fibreglas bats and I will do the inside wall panelling (not quite sure what I will use for paneling in there but I don't do drywall and I want it to be easy to install at reasonable cost and it needs to be fairly robust.
...suggestions anyone?
I'd like to have done more of this stuff myself, but I am starting a busy new job on Thursday this week and I know that I wouldn't get it done in any sort of reasonable time.
Pete
The whole wall then becomes a wide open area to hang things and no drywall anchors
If I would have know how small the in floor heat boiler was I definitely would have gone that route
I just figured it would be much bigger and taken a lot of Natural gas to run it continuously
And I need to pour a slab where the bikes go in because all I had poured was 2' and like you said park the bike hope it don't tip over open the door etc.
I just figured it would be much bigger and taken a lot of Natural gas to run it continuously
And I need to pour a slab where the bikes go in because all I had poured was 2' and like you said park the bike hope it don't tip over open the door etc.
With just 110v service, he won't be installing one that big.
Pete, have you given thought to a 220v service? Welders, plasma cutters and such do better on the higher voltage.
...not to mention monster compressors...
This No-Mar tire changer will also have to be bolted to the floor. With this, you will have many friends at your shop having you replace their tires while they drink your beer. Just ask @desmoman900.
https://www.nomartirechanger.com/
Anything bolted to the floor needs to be planned before the heat goes in.
That lack of a toilet might prove to be an issue after all! I guess you keep a slop jar in there.
I figure a bike is around 8' long and about 3-4 feet wide so an 8' x 8' pad will hold mine and a buddies while I open the overhead door. As I mentioned earlier, the electrical service will be 100A / 220v (I have a Lincoln MigPak 180 welder and there will be a 220v mini-split AC unit next summer).
...and here is the sand being put down on the scraped-off earth. The ground around here is "blue" clay - hard a rock when it is dry.
Pete
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Yup - no holes in the floor after the heat is installed. I will be coordinating with him tomorrow.
Pete
Ahhh... I misread...
I went with all white steel on the inside walls. While it's not conducive to easily hanging things, I really like the durability, ability to clean, and the light reflection. Sheetrock is too susceptible to dents and gouges when moving things against the wall. Putting up shelving is quite easy with a 2x4 screwed through the metal into 2x4 perlins that the metal is hung on. Pics for reference. Don't pay any attn to the mess in my shop....cleaning it today lol.
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Yes, it is coming down to either steel or that TrussCore stuff - which actually sounds pretty appealing. The ceiling is going to be white-painted steel (the same stuff that is on the outside and the roof of the building).
For the interior walls, I considered gypsum / drywall.....for a moment....but I HATE HATE HATE doing drywall and by the time I pay someone else to put it up and mud it, and then paint it myself, it isn't a heck of lot cheaper than steel or the TrussCore (neither of which have to be mudded, taped or painted). Also, drywall is fragile, which in a workshop is not good (I'm a pretty clumsy guy).
Then I thought about something like plywood or wooden floor underlay (I think it is about 3/8" thick) but neither are all that cheap, both are fairly heavy and both would still need to be painted....soooooo....
...and yes, I always tell myself that I am going to clean up my shop too.....@2XSive....really soon now.....
Pete
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Either way you go, FWIW, I first stapled thick clear plastic over the insulation on the inside. Sealed it all up and taped the seams to lock out any risk of moisture. I hung all the inside steel myself. Biggest pain was cutting the outlet holes. I also rented the machine from Home Depot for blowing in the insulation (saved a few $ as a DIY).
Oh yes - vapour barrier is absolutely mandatory here as-is the best insulation you can get into the walls and ceiling.
P
....and I should have mentioned that, as well as I thought I had laid out all my wiring plans perfectly, I found myself needing to run a couple other circuits, including another 220v outlet, after all the metal was up. Nice thing about the metal is just unscrewing the panels to gain access to re-run more wire. Not sure how it works with the vinyl option. I did look at that vinyl also, and couldn't recall the exact reason I went with metal. I think when it all added up, the cost difference was negligible. This was about 5 years ago so I'm sure it has since changed.
My only question would be is this material safe say if one was planning on doing welding or cutting with a torch in side the building. I would be worried about a stray spark or other hot metal getting on it. I might want to check with insurance company to see if they approve of it for your intended use of the shop/garage.
Good thought Ken - but as I understand it, the TrussCore material is actually intended for garages and workshops. In any event, I will be setting up a welding area with fireproof mats hung on the walls to protect them.
I used 3/4" OSB for my inside walls.
