Remove brake handle on front disc master cylinder

[corbshere]

How can I get the disc brake handle off to get at the plunger on my front disc master cylinder? This is an XS650 1972 and what sounds real simple is proving to be really difficult Better yet...anyone know where I can find a '72 front master cylinder and handle assembly for sale!!?? Man what a freeking project just to remove a brake lever!!!

 

[blkvsn]

Better yet...anyone know where I can find a '72 front master cylinder and handle assembly for sale!!?? Man what a freeking project just to remove a brake lever!!!

Ever looked at Mike's XS site? They have a couple of master cylinders which should fit at '72.

http://www.mikesxs.net/products-71.html#products

I had a '72 back in the 70s and I know I rebuilt the front caliper a few times, but don't remember if I ever had to mess with the master cylinder. Good luck.

Don

 

[jayel]

here's a break down of the assembly, think the master cylinder kits for these are quite rare

screw the pivot bolt back in part way and use it to pull the bushing out

 

[xjwmx]

Does the bushing #30 go into the holes or just serve as kind of a spacer between them? If it's the latter, stick a hefty needle nose in there and spread it. If it's the former, drive it out .

 

[tadd442]

Mikes has "early" mc's that will work, but are not correct being they have mirror mounts and your original '72 mc does not. Rebuild kits are available here & there, but you gotta look hard, and they are a bit pricey......like about $70-$90

 

[littlebill31]

650central sells the rebuild kit. It's real pricey though, at $87.00. If you are not going to restore it to perfect, and just want brakes, I would buy the aftermarket m/c.

They are very similar to the later model. (The m/c below is a later model)

You take the lever off, parts #29-35. Number 30 is a sleeve. (Refering to Jayel's diagram)

Remove the rubber boot, which will be detroyed and needs
replaced, part #5.


Remove the c-clip with pliers or a punch, part #4.


Parts #3-9 will come out, but are usually stuck from corrosion and fouled fluid. You might have to use a wooden dowl to tap it out, from the banjo bolt side.


(Screwdriver for demonstration only)

The spring, #10, is the last piece to come out. All of these need to be replaced usually due to crud and fouled fluids.


Makes sure you place then in order so you can reassemble it correctly.