Removing an over-torqued spark plug?

Splexin

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Yes.....fml....... over-torqued my brand-new Iridium spark plug. :banghead: Left the bolt portion in my cylinder. Now trying to figure out how to get it out? No access to welding tools, blow torches or dynamite. I don't think I have an easy-out and the auto store is 3 miles away. My bike is my only ride :doh:

Ideas? Or am I just screwed
 
Also broke a bolt for the sump.....now oil drips from that side...wtf is wrong with me today? I didn't even use a torque wrench for that......just regular socket wrench.....wasn't tightened that hard.......fml
 
Put down the wrenches, back away from the bike. Really you snapped the plug off at the seal? The good news is it probably isn't in that tight now that it broke. Grab a file tap the tang into the hole in the plug put an adjustable wrench on the file, unthread. if necessary grind off the end of the tang so you don't hit/ bend anything inside the cylinder. The sump bolts break easily by design, they thread into a short aluminum casing which happens to be the crankcase lower half. better a bolt than a crankcase. You got time for that one if you are lucky remove the sump cut a slot in the remains of the bolt with a cutoff wheel in a dremel, unthread.
 
I would like to be a spokesman for Stanley. This is all it took boys :thumbsup:
P1000561.JPG


P.S. Flat-head screwdriver
 
Well, I say call it a day. Do a little research. (I googled spark plug broke in head got quite a few hits and some interesting fixes). So relax, come up with a plan and work on it tomorrow or the next day when you're feeling less frustrated and have access to the proper tools. I don't think you caused any permanent damage. One thing you might want to check once you get the rest of the spark plug out is cross threading or stripped threads in the head, which can be easily fixed, there's some posts on the forum.

Well I see you fixed it congratulations.
 
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Put down the wrenches, back away from the bike. Really you snapped the plug off at the seal? The good news is it probably isn't in that tight now that it broke. Grab a file tap the tang into the hole in the plug put an adjustable wrench on the file, unthread. if necessary grind off the end of the tang so you don't hit/ bend anything inside the cylinder. The sump bolts break easily by design, they thread into a short aluminum casing which happens to be the crankcase lower half. better a bolt than a crankcase. You got time for that one if you are lucky remove the sump cut a slot in the remains of the bolt with a cutoff wheel in a dremel, unthread.
Thanks Gary.

The sump bolt was the least of my concerns. I was surprised it snapped off as I wasn't tightening it very hard. Thought maybe because of age it snapped. Anyways it is a corner one so I don't think it will be difficult to remove. If all else fails I can remove the other bolts and rotate the sump plate to unscrew it. That spark plug was a bitch! :yikes:


:laugh:
 
The sump isn't threaded, if the bolt broke flush at the head just remove the sump and grab the bolt with a vice grips it will come out easy. You might even get enough of a slot in it to remove it without removing the cover at all. A left hand drill bit would be useful there too.
 
yes you need a torque wrench. and please dont go to harbor freight for it. i got the i-beam one from sears. 35 bucks or something. its good at getting close, but i dont fully trust its readings. i will be getting a click style or even a digital beeping one some day. well worth it in my eyes. and congrats on getting that spark plug out, hope there wasnt any kids around when that broke off.
 
I have a torque wrench. The lowest on it label-wise is 20 though it can go lower. When I rotate backwards (off reading...) and count down to 12 (spark plugs @ 14?)....that is what over-torqued my spark plug. Never clicked or anything. I think maybe my t-wrench is too large for spark plug tightening and smaller stuff. It's 1/2" drive. But I don't think I need a torque wrench for the sump bolts, those are so small I can tell when it is tight by hand. Honestly it wasn't that tight for it to snap like it did. I still think the bolt was weak cause all the others tightened down fine.

P.S. I'm sure I sound like a complete buffoon when I speak in my threads but I am by no means a gear-head and never tinkered with anything mechanical. This is the first time I've changed my oil.....I did successfully install the oil-cooler mod, change the oil, changed the sump filter...also added brake fluid and was supposed to install my new plugs. I probably broke the sump bolt out of frustration from my spark plug incident (at the point I had not got the plug screw out). I guess it could be worse :shrug:
 
A torque wrench with a lowest range of 20 ft-lbs is too large for spark plugs and sump bolts. Its not surprising you have broken off some bolts/plugs.

Yes, you really do need a torque wrench if you want to avoid broken off bolts.

I have one that starts at 5 ft-lbs and goes to 80 ft-lbs, that I use for everything on my bike and car. My wrench may not be accurate in the 5 to 10 range and in the 70 to 80 range, but its close enough to get by with. I plan to buy one in the in-lb range to be more accurate with the small bolts.
 
There's a simple way to install spark plugs without a torque wrench that's outlined in most manuals and even printed on the side of many spark plug boxes. Screw the plug in finger tight then tighten about 1/8 turn more. You're looking to partly compress the sealing washer, that's all. You don't want to tighten the plug all the way tight like a bolt, just enough to partially squish that sealing washer.
 
Well, you're learning from your new experiences (both successes and mistakes), and that's what is really important - it's exactly how we all learned what we know now and continue to learn what we still need to. The knowledge and skills that you are building are very necessary to keep these 30-40 year old bikes operating safely at their full potential, plus it gives you a real sense of pride and confidence in yourself and your machine. Just keep taking things slow and easy and keep asking questions on this forum.
 
Thanks to everyone for their feedback. I agree that this experience has been a learning one. Now I know exactly what to do in the event that this happens again, though I'm hoping that it won't! :bike:

I successfully removed the broken sump bolt via needle-nose pliers. Trotted down to Ace Hardware and they had a perfect match. I just spent the day reassembling everything and making sure the gasket was set correctly this time. Torqued the bolts in stages (no torque wrench this time, just my common sense) and now I'm back to being drip-free. Took it for a few miles ride earlier and it runs and shifts better than ever.

Now I just have to order another spark plug :thumbsup:
 
My torque wrench has the following settings .. Finger tight ,hand tight ,wrist tight ,elbow tight ,shoulder tight ,, fecking big bar and jump on it tight .
 
My torque wrench has the following settings .. Finger tight ,hand tight ,wrist tight ,elbow tight ,shoulder tight ,, fecking big bar and jump on it tight .

My son has one of those but the finger tight and the hand tight are both broken:yikes: and he favors the shoulder tight and f'ing big bar tight
 
My son has one of those but the finger tight and the hand tight are both broken:yikes: and he favors the shoulder tight and f'ing big bar tight

Ouch its a bad tool to break ...My settings need recalibrated... I over torqued the wrist trying to hold two ends of an akrapovic exhaust up while attatching a clamp at an awkward angle this morning .
 
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