Right side crank case gasket

Pina

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I had a leak from the bottom of the right side crank case so I decided to pull it and replace the gasket. My question is, when installing a new gasket is it necessary to add some RTV sealant?
 

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Most senior members here says No but I do it --on both sides of the gasket Permatex
It is an old habit .. It helps if it is a more worn bike with perhaps a little warped cover and or scratches in the surfaces.
I get better results having it and not needing to do it again
It also holds the gasket a bit in place while doing it.

If I reall right there is some special washers on some of the bolts ( or was it some other bike ? )
 
No do not use sealer. What I do is get the surfaces spotlessly clean and then coat the gasket with red grease.
Have not had any problems with leaks.
Works for me, your results will depend on how clean you get things.
 
If I reall right there is some special washers on some of the bolts ( or was it some other bike ? )
There are some copper washers that the factory used on the bottom bolts. Never figured out why, the holes are blind. I have never used them.
 
Most senior members here says No but I do it --on both sides of the gasket Permatex
It is an old habit .. It helps if it is a more worn bike with perhaps a little warped cover and or scratches in the surfaces.
I get better results having it and not needing to do it again
It also holds the gasket a bit in plachile doing it.

If I reall right there is some special washers on some of the bolts ( or was it some other bike ? )
Do you use red or blue?
 
Do you use red or blue?
Black or Black Brown
perhaps you are referring to loctite for locking bolts which comes in different colors

Have used since the days I did not need to shave ..That was what the boys said back then ..Smear that on
Not sure if it is available or he best.. but that company have other of the same sort.
Not to much because it can cause problems i Once smeared to much on a carburetor for a VOLVO and got myself into trouble .

Regarding copper washers even if it is a blind hole the copper washer can function as the copper washer under the drain plug
Should the oil reach the bolt

Not questioning GLJ s method he is experienced. But the chemical I feel can help if warped or scratched surfaces.

Permatex® Super "300" Form-A-Gasket® Sealant,

https://www.permatex.com/products/g...ermatex-super-300-form-a-gasket-sealant-4-oz/


EDIT i can se they have blue and red silicone
 
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An important aspect of sealing an oil bearing cover like this is to use a torque wrench and make all the screws/bolts the same tightness. Making them super tight doesn't seal things, making them all the same does. The fasteners for this cover (and most of the others on the bike) are an M6 size. Standard torque vale for that is usually speced at 5 to 8 ft/lbs. Being a 40+ year old machine and since these go into alloy, I don't use the max. For years I used 80 in/lbs but recently have backed that off some. I now use 72 in/lbs (6 ft/lbs) and things still seal up fine.
 
I use a calibrated wrist. In 45+ years of wrenching I have learned what is too tight and what feels right. I would bet that my bolts are within a few inch pounds of each other.
 
After the oil and tire questions, what gasket sealer? is next.... ;)
I use soylent green Hylomar Blue on the flange of the cover only, and oil or grease on the engine side.
The factory used sealant on the cover side, with only about a 1/2" smear of sealant on the motor side of the joint where the top and bottom crankcase halves join at front and rear of the cover joint.
The sealant whatever you use should be a THIN smear. No goobers of glop that get loose inside the motor, clog oil passages, and well you get it.
A heads; up the tach drive seal is usually shot, oil runs down and rearwards along the cover gasket....
spray with mineral spirits, ride a bit watch where the oil appears first, a bit of talc or foot powder huffed in the area helps quickly show where the oil is coming from.
I use copper washers on the bottom cover bolts and the oil filter cover bolts.
https://www.xs650.com/threads/rh-cover-leak.51364/post-540907
cover already COATED with Hylomar....
1653613493605.png


Don't be THIS guy.
intake.jpg
 
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@Jan_P is the permatex difficult to remove when replacing with a new gasket? Thanks,
'TT'

Not been so much into the removing of it but i am pretty certain alcohol solves the one I have been using
It is sold here as fuel for camp stoves and house cleaning

https://www.biltema.se/en-se/leisure/camping-and-outdoors/gas-stove/methylated-spirit-2000043632

Putting it on a rag and wipe a little solves it ..
In fact I have both close Ill try it Yes Sir .. Works well

As a side note the vinos tried to drink it back in the day but there are additives making it close to impossible
Was talk of Attempts to filter it through white bread
 
Is there a trick to getting the cover to slide back on? It keeps getting stuck on the kick starter side. My manuals offer no instruction on this.
 

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There are some copper washers that the factory used on the bottom bolts. Never figured out why, the holes are blind. I have never used them.
Yep, there's a few bolts with copper washers on the engine. I never checked the holes in the right side crankcase, just blindly followed along with what was in there originally. Sump plate is the same, I think the starter plate is too, from memory.
 
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