Roller starter builder's Co-op

gggGary

If not now, When?
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Let's see what we come up with
I like the thought of TWO starters direct drive, one on each shaft. But fire off with what you're think'n!
 
I've got a starter off a 4cyl Ford Ranger what's been collecting dust like.... forever.
I'm wondering if a single motor will do the trick? It spun a 200 odd ci motor?
 
Well I do have several XS650 XS650 starters..
Also have a 5HP 220 3 phase motor but it needs a VFD
And the 1.5 horse on the buffer that's already sitting, powered up, right by the shed door could run a belt to rollers.
 
Bunch of "learning up" already done for us. I think the V tapered rollers is not the hot tip. It's not intuitive but I think a "barrel" shaped roller fattest in the middle is the goto, like a belt sander or band saw roller they'll tend to self center the driven element (rear tire).....
@I am Carbon is a lot like me a design build DIY'r. :sneaky:
 
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What you didn't go back and read through all the forum posts from the beginning? ;^)
I did half remember that thread, and even that it was I am carbon that did it!
 
I remember it now. Read it a few yrs back.
Agree... the (counterintuitive) barrel roller would prolly work better.
 
some big assed radiator hose forced over some steel pipe with tapers cut.....
A shopping trip to Delaney's Surplus salvage back yard, might be in order.
 
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You know I thought a large electric motor would spin too fast, but Carbons design popped it right off.
Wouldn‘t a single starter motor, even if it was driving two rollers, have enough torque and speed to turn over a motor?
 
My brother did some electric boats for innercity kid in St Paul a few years ago. He had a fellow put roller bearings into GM hi torque starter motors in place of thge sleeve bearing/bushing.
 
Bit late to the party ad it looks like you are going electric. We made a paddock starter for the RD 700 using a 6.5 HP go kart motor with integral centrifugal clutch, a go cart wheel and a cheepy sack barrow for the handle and wheels.
It would work better with a slick on the go kart wheel but we didn't have one.
The front roller is a conveyor belt roller modified, the distance between the roller and drive wheel is adjustable to suit different wheel diameters.
The drill for staring from cold is:
Put rear wheel in starter.
Chock platform wheel level
with bike in neutral start donkey motor and turn over gearbox to warm oil for about 5 mins.
Put bike in 3rd, rider on bike assistant revs donkey motor and watches riders left hand, when he dumps the clutch assistant puts full body weight on rear of platform.
Bike usually starts first run.
Problems happen with wet rear tyre but extra weight on platform at the right time fixes this. The timing of the weight application is crucial and dont forget to turn the kill switch on. (surprising how often that happens )
Have also seen them made using a 8 inch angle grinder as the motor driving front and rear rollers.
We went petrol as batteries are heavy to cart around for 12V systems and mains power is not always nearby in the pits. Generators ok for tyre warmers will keel over if you try to start a decent sized electric motor from them.
 

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Bit late to the party ad it looks like you are going electric. We made a paddock starter for the RD 700 using a 6.5 HP go kart motor with integral centrifugal clutch, a go cart wheel and a cheepy sack barrow for the handle and wheels.
It would work better with a slick on the go kart wheel but we didn't have one.
The front roller is a conveyor belt roller modified, the distance between the roller and drive wheel is adjustable to suit different wheel diameters.
The drill for staring from cold is:
Put rear wheel in starter.
Chock platform wheel level
with bike in neutral start donkey motor and turn over gearbox to warm oil for about 5 mins.
Put bike in 3rd, rider on bike assistant revs donkey motor and watches riders left hand, when he dumps the clutch assistant puts full body weight on rear of platform.
Bike usually starts first run.
Problems happen with wet rear tyre but extra weight on platform at the right time fixes this. The timing of the weight application is crucial and dont forget to turn the kill switch on. (surprising how often that happens )
Well Done! Thanks for sharing!
 
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