Steering Components - Is the PO f'ing with me again

[Rlauchard]

Hi all,

First, the title of this thread is in reference to my PO installing the camshaft backwards.

So I had my bike almost completely disassembled. There were only 2 pieces left to remove (and they were a bitch). The two pieces were located in the frame where the steering stem goes through (second image). The two pieces...I believe are in the first image diagram as #7 and #2.

#7 was the last piece inside, on the top side of the frame (second image). The last piece in on the bottom of the frame was the same piece as #7, just upside down, so I assume it was the #2 piece.

It looks like someone just reversed the #6 and #2? I'm just wondering if this is true, or if this is an issue where they changed the installation of those pieces on an '81 and just didn't put this in the manual.

Thoughts?

 

[gggGary]

The 6 and 7 are the neck side of the race sets as the picture shows, #2 is on the bottom of the steering stem it also is a bit hard to remove. They all should be tossed and replaced with the All Balls tapered bearing set (IMHO) both the neck races require the use of a drift and hammer or bearing puller to remove. Before installing the all balls lower neck race a slot should be ground in the lower neck shelf because the tapered race has the same ID as the neck and cannot be readily removed unless you have previously cut the slot. To remove #2 from the stem first carefully pull out on and remove the rubber seal #1, that gives you a notch to start prying up the race from the bottom of the stem. There's a couple good threads with clear pictures about all of this, that a forum search "steering bearings" should quickly find.

And that is enough talk about #1 and #2 for today.

Good use of pictures to illustrate what you are talking about!

 

[Rlauchard]

Thanks ggGary, I got the pieces all removed, it was more out of curiosity that the way things were installed didn't look quite like this picture. But I guess to your point...since the bearings were rusty and the grease was more like old peanut butter, it's time to replace.

Is this something I should be looking at? http://www.mikesxs.net/product/28-2009.html

Or is this what you were referring to as all balls: http://www.allballsracing.com/22-1015.html

 

[5twins]

Save those old races to use as "tools" for installing the new lower tapered bearing race up into the neck. It's inset up into the neck and can't be driven fully in with just a block of wood like the top one can. Drive it as far as you can with the wood block, then set one of the old ball bearing races between the block and new race, drive some more, add the second old race. This will allow you to drive it up into the neck fully.

 

[gggGary]

This seems to be the best deal going, where I buy mine, $31 free shipping, includes the lower seal.

http://www.amazon.com/All-Balls-Steering-Bearing-22-1015/dp/B000GZK572

 

[Rlauchard]

Very thankful sir....very thankful!

 

[Rlauchard]

UPDATE: Got my All balls tapered bearings. It always scares the bejeezus out of me when there are no instructions.

I just want to be sure that I get this...because clearly I don't.

The image I attached shows what I got in the All Balls package. 2 dust seals and 2 tapered bearing 'sets'...I'll call them sets, may be wrong.

Now, on the parts diagram here, which numbers do the all balls components replace? Is it 1, 2, 3, 6, 7, 8, 9?

Thanks for the help.

Ryan

 

[gggGary]

I just put set in Thursday. Tap both races out of the stem a big old screwdriver and hammer does it easily. IMHO reuse the stock lower seal, pull it gently out and over the race BEFORE you attempt to remove the lower race, the groove once the rubber is off makes it easy(er) to remove that race.tap a screwdriver sideways in the slot to start the race off then you can use a screw driver and hammer to finish driving it off the stem.
Keep the two new bearings separate in their plastic packs. Open the lower bearing (it has the larger ID) separate the two pieces, If you are going to use the new seal, install it now rubber pointed down. use the old race, and a piece of pipe, and tap the inner race into place on the stem with a hammer on the end of the pipe. If you are using the old seal install it now.
BEFORE you install the lower outer race into the stem, grind two slots into the stem or that race cannot be removed again, like this.

I used a chainsaw stone in my dremel to make the grooves. Now install the lower outer race using an old race to protect it.

Now open the upper bearing package and install the outer race. It will stand proud of the neck like this.

Grease both bearings thoroughly and reassemble. A set of spanners to tighten the nuts is nice. You want to tension them enough so the the stem has some resistance to turning. That's about it.



now o

 

[5twins]

I'm pretty sure you'll want to keep #3. That's the tin cover for the top bearing and what the two notched steering stem nuts tighten against. I'm not sure about #1. That's the lower factory grease seal. I re-used mine but I installed the MikesXS bearings which didn't come with grease seals. Someone who's used the All-Balls kit is going to have to tell you about that.

 

[5twins]

A note on installing the two top ring nuts. If you look closely at them, you'll notice one side is flat and the other is dished out. Install them so the dished out sides face each other and lock together. They lock together better and more progressively this way. It also presents a nice flat side up for the upper triple tree to rest against and a flat side down to better apply preload to your bearings.

 

[gggGary]

what 5 twins says the All balls seal add the thickness of the metal insert to the stack, why I kept the stock seal (if in good shape) If you use the all balls seal I think it should point down. The 79 nuts on the bike I just did were not dished so that may vary bike by bike.