Turn signal wiring?

OK, you previously said you had a 522 flasher, and now say its a 552. A 552 is a simple thermal type flasher. It will only work if you have 27 watt bulbs (#1156). If your new turn signals are something smaller in wattage, then they will not flash.
 
Fill your battery to the top line with distilled water, take it to AutoZone to be tested, then take it to O'riellys to be tested again. These are free tests and you are not obligated to buy anything. While you are there get an "electronic" flasher, two or three pin, whatever you have now that fits your wiring plug. An "electronic" flasher will work with whatever turn signals you have.
 
Must have miss spoke I have a 552 flasher in I got from autozone. My turnsignals have worked before with the 552 flasher, they aren't led or anything like that. Could the starter button assembly possible be grounding out to the front brake master cyclinder and not the bars could that cause an issue? Also I will get my battery tested tonight or tomorrow.
 
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Most tree prong flashers from a parts store won't be a plug and play set up. Some have had luck adding more wiring to get them to work. Your 552 is a two prong flasher, correct? If so plug it into the stock flasher plug so it bridges the brown wire and the brown/white wire. The brown is power into the flasher, the brown/white is power out to the switch.
If your bike had the self canceler unit, the two prong flasher bypasses this feature.
On your new turn signals, is the bulb a single element bulb or a dual element bulb? If the bulb has two elements then the red and black wires may not be hot and ground, they may both be hot and ground through the body of the turn signal.
These with two elements are designed to have the turn signal on the brighter element and a running light on the dimmer element.
I have some of these to try on my 75. I like the idea of having a two element bulb. The extra lighting helps makes you more visible to traffic.
Just open on of your turns up and look at the bulb. If will have a silver dot on the base, one dot is a single element bulb, two dots is the dual. You should be able to see the elements inside the bulb as well.
Leo
 
Good news on the relay.............Go back to #28 to do a Continuity, (without power), test,to find your short you established. This test may have gotten lost in the battery talk
 
XSLeo said:
Most tree prong flashers from a parts store won't be a plug and play set up. Some have had luck adding more wiring to get them to work. Your 552 is a two prong flasher, correct? If so plug it into the stock flasher plug so it bridges the brown wire and the brown/white wire. The brown is power into the flasher, the brown/white is power out to the switch.
If your bike had the self canceler unit, the two prong flasher bypasses this feature.
On your new turn signals, is the bulb a single element bulb or a dual element bulb? If the bulb has two elements then the red and black wires may not be hot and ground, they may both be hot and ground through the body of the turn signal.
These with two elements are designed to have the turn signal on the brighter element and a running light on the dimmer element.
I have some of these to try on my 75. I like the idea of having a two element bulb. The extra lighting helps makes you more visible to traffic.
Just open on of your turns up and look at the bulb. If will have a silver dot on the base, one dot is a single element bulb, two dots is the dual. You should be able to see the elements inside the bulb as well.
Leo
Click to expand...

It's a signal element bulb. Also why I had the bulb off it says 12v 10w E8 on the bulb. So I'm thinking this may mean I need a different flasher relay for the lower watts. I'm running a 552 right now. Also charging battery tonight and will run a continuity test tomorrow, thanks for all the help so far to everyone!!!
 
I did the ohms test and every where I tested I'm getting about 1.5 ohms on my meter. No where that I tested did I get 0, does this mean anything. Also I tested the socket on the turn signal indicator and got resistance there as well. Tested were the flasher relay goes and got 0 ohms, but I think I may have tested it wrong. Anyone know how to test that part or is it irrelevant?
 
As I mentioned in post #41, the 552 flasher will not work with bulbs smaller than 27 watts. You say you have 10 watt bulbs, so the 10 watt bulbs are not going to work with that flasher. You can either go back to stock 27 watt bulbs, or you can buy a flasher unit that will work with 10 watt bulbs.
 
retiredgentleman said:
As I mentioned in post #41, the 552 flasher will not work with bulbs smaller than 27 watts. You say you have 10 watt bulbs, so the 10 watt bulbs are not going to work with that flasher. You can either go back to stock 27 watt bulbs, or you can buy a flasher unit that will work with 10 watt bulbs.
Click to expand...

Put in the old bulbs and flasher and nothing happened. Thinking the switch maybe the issue as it is the last thing to test. Are there any test I can run on it with my multi meter?
 
With the switch opened up, check for voltage on the dark green and dark brown when you select left or right. Select left , should have 12 volts on the dark brown. Select right should have 12 volts on the dark green. If no voltage seen, go check the flasher unit, for voltage at the brown white wire, when the key is turned on.
 
So I tested the original turn signals with the original flasher and when I hit the turn signal switch it does tick, but signals don't light up. When I hold it to one side it just keeps ticking non stop and no flash. Tried it with the bike running same issue, switch maybe broken?
 
retiredgentleman said:
With the switch opened up, check for voltage on the dark green and dark brown when you select left or right. Select left , should have 12 volts on the dark brown. Select right should have 12 volts on the dark green. If no voltage seen, go check the flasher unit, for voltage at the brown white wire, when the key is turned on.
Click to expand...

Just saw your post and I'm about to try it thanks.
 
Ok did the test, just to make sure I did it right this is how I did it. Would plug in the positive part of my multi meter into the power wire on the turn signal. Then would ground the other wire of my multi meter to the ground wire. Then with the bike on I would hit the switch. The Flasher would tick then I would get no volt reading on either side. So I went to the flasher relay plug in and tested both parts of it where the flasher plugs in and grounded the Negative wire of my multi meter to the bike, this gave me a voltage of around 11-12V. Hope I did the test right, let me know what this means thanks.
 
Set your OHM meter to the lowest setting, remove a bulb, touch one probe to the metal outside of that light socket and the other probe to the battery - negative, You should get a VERY low number on the OHM meter if the socket is grounded well, do this at every turn signal socket.

It's still looking like you have a bad flasher, or a flasher that does not work with your bulbs, if you get an electronic one there would be no further question about the flasher.

Scott
 
mrtwowheel said:
Set your OHM meter to the lowest setting, remove a bulb, touch one probe to the metal outside of that light socket and the other probe to the battery - negative, You should get a VERY low number on the OHM meter if the socket is grounded well, do this at every turn signal socket.

It's still looking like you have a bad flasher, or a flasher that does not work with your bulbs, if you get an electronic one there would be no further question about the flasher.

Scott
Click to expand...

Any recommendations on electronic flashers I can get at autozone?
 
Has to be the turn signal switch a bunch of wires came un soldered inside the switch. Anyone got a picture of where to re solder the wires? If not what is a good replacement for the turnsignal switch assemble?
 

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