Very good info. Thank you
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Van Islander's TX650A - Quest for a Daily Rider
- Thread starter TX650A Van Islander
- Start date
For future reference that would be good in the O ring and seal thread.
I think I'm gonna write a thread about these seals and ask to have it put in the Tech section. That way it'll (theoretically) get more exposure and hopefully we can track progress as far as leak free and wear.
That is unless @2XSive want's to do it?
I think I'm gonna write a thread about these seals and ask to have it put in the Tech section. That way it'll (theoretically) get more exposure and hopefully we can track progress as far as leak free and wear.
That is unless @2XSive want's to do it?
Yesterday I realized I'm having the same issue around the cam so will try a set of those 24x40mm. Great tip...I had this same issue with my old cam as well and no amount of grease or polishing the ends of the cam seemed to fix it...glad we've got a better solution!
I'd welcome a write up (or in the meantime just feedback)...how far do you need to tear down to replace those seals? I've only done it when I had the whole top end apart. Would love to minimize disassembly....
Van Islander - your bike rules. #cinnamonbrothers
2 screws and the chrome cover's off. 3 screws and the housing comes off. That's as far as you need to go.
Since my bike is a TCI model, it's just five fasteners. You're going to have to remove the ignition components. Here's the thread on mine.
https://www.xs650.com/threads/cam-seal-leaking-still.61851/
Awesome! Thanks for saving me the trouble of searching. Didn't know if you could pull them/drive the new ones without pulling the cam cover, that's great.
My points and advance are gone so it should just be the 5 screws for me. I'll report back with anything of note. Thanks fellas.
My points and advance are gone so it should just be the 5 screws for me. I'll report back with anything of note. Thanks fellas.
Yeah, my bad. If you have a cam fired ignition, all that's gotta come out too.
Two cents: Hopefully, you can just R&R the cam covers and install the seals. I've had the covers object to being reinstalled with the top-end torqued. If you encounter that issue, just loosen the head nuts & bolts, install the covers and then re-torque per book - no worries.
I’ve been lucky with mine. They came apart quite easily. I found using the OEM cam seals stopped my seepage. The wider aftermarket seals didn’t do as good of a job.
Thanks all for this info! Where is the best place to buy these smaller seals?
Love the #cinnamonbrothers Somerville! Your calendar pic hangs proudly in my shop/garage.
Love the #cinnamonbrothers Somerville! Your calendar pic hangs proudly in my shop/garage.
I haven't been riding the bike lately as I've been riding the DR. Two friends and I recently rode down to Winthrop WA. Those of you in the PNW would be familiar with it. Riding through the northern Cascades mountain range is stunning! I saw more old barns than I could count but no pictures as old barn pics with a dual sport Suzuki just isn't ok.
For the TX, I still need to order those 24 mm seals and rebuild the carbs to get that idle problem sorted, but then I thought I should use these '76/'77 carbs I got with the TX. When I first bought the bike these carbs were installed. They are in much better condition than the '74 carbs. My goal was always to have this bike as original as possible and I only had the two cable throttle sleeve so went the older carb route.
My questions: Is there any reason I can't use the same left throttle cable as I have installed (and just leave the inactive right one installed, dead-ended under the tank? Beyond the obvious linkage between the carbs and the dual choke, are there any other benefits to the '76/'77 carbs?
Note that I used the aluminum covers on the older carbs as pictured just because they looked better.
For the TX, I still need to order those 24 mm seals and rebuild the carbs to get that idle problem sorted, but then I thought I should use these '76/'77 carbs I got with the TX. When I first bought the bike these carbs were installed. They are in much better condition than the '74 carbs. My goal was always to have this bike as original as possible and I only had the two cable throttle sleeve so went the older carb route.
My questions: Is there any reason I can't use the same left throttle cable as I have installed (and just leave the inactive right one installed, dead-ended under the tank? Beyond the obvious linkage between the carbs and the dual choke, are there any other benefits to the '76/'77 carbs?
Note that I used the aluminum covers on the older carbs as pictured just because they looked better.
@5twins should be able to help you with this.
Yes, you should be able to use just one of the two throttle cables but I think I'd remove the other one. You'd be constantly moving it when opening and closing the throttle, and it will have no tension on it because it's not hooked up anymore. That may cause issues up inside the twist grip.
Question for you guys: I took these carbs apart to see what I'm dealing with. They appear to be in nice shape but not correct parts per the carb guide. The pilot jets are 42.5 and the main jets are 135. Why, would some one want to do this? My engine is stock with stock air cleaners.
Would I be best to run the 122.5 main jet and 25 pilot jet? The rest of the parts are correct for '76/'77 carbs per the carb guide.
Would I be best to run the 122.5 main jet and 25 pilot jet? The rest of the parts are correct for '76/'77 carbs per the carb guide.
Sorry, I'm not one of the carb experts here. Just thought I'd remind that the jet callouts in the guide are for the year/model of the carb, not the bike.
In other words the jetting for '76/'77 carbs will be the same for a 74-ish bike as well as a '79-ish bike... everything else being equal of course.
In other words the jetting for '76/'77 carbs will be the same for a 74-ish bike as well as a '79-ish bike... everything else being equal of course.
Thanks Jim.
Yes, you jet for the year of the carb set, not the year of the bike they're being used on. If your '76-'77 carb set had aftermarket rebuild kits installed sometime in the past, that could explain the #135 mains. Even though it's wrong, that's the main jet size that comes in most of the aftermarket '76-'77 carb kits. The included pilot jet (27.5) is wrong as well, lol. Those jet sizes are actually for the '78-'79 carb set but these '76-'77 kits have come this way for years .....
The 42.5 pilot I'm not sure about. I don't have a clue where that came from, lol. Besides being way too big, I'll bet it's the wrong type as well, a BS30/96. The '76-'77 carbs use the VM22/210 type pilot .....
But, there's something else you'll need to check. There was a different float bowl used for each of the two pilots. The difference was internal and applies to how the air is delivered to the jet. You need to match the float bowl to the jet type ......
Your '76-'77 carbs should have the VM22/210 type float bowl but if someone put BS30/96 pilots in them, maybe they changed the float bowls too.
The 42.5 pilot I'm not sure about. I don't have a clue where that came from, lol. Besides being way too big, I'll bet it's the wrong type as well, a BS30/96. The '76-'77 carbs use the VM22/210 type pilot .....
But, there's something else you'll need to check. There was a different float bowl used for each of the two pilots. The difference was internal and applies to how the air is delivered to the jet. You need to match the float bowl to the jet type ......
Your '76-'77 carbs should have the VM22/210 type float bowl but if someone put BS30/96 pilots in them, maybe they changed the float bowls too.
