Another thing to check - on the back side of the arm are a couple holes. These flow the fuel from one of the 4 holes to another. Sometimes these can have sharp edges. That can tear up the 4 hole rubber disc as you turn the arm. If the hole edges are sharp, round them off slightly with a small knife or file.
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working on float valves up side down?
- Thread starter marp68
- Start date
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- carburetors
Thanks for your detailed explanation. It will help.
I would have emptied the tank, but at the moment it is almost full and the weather is to bad for taking nice rides and empty the tank the normal way.
Hopefully the weather improve until the weekend, so I can enjoy a long nice autumn day ride. And empty the tank a bit...
M
I would have emptied the tank, but at the moment it is almost full and the weather is to bad for taking nice rides and empty the tank the normal way.
Hopefully the weather improve until the weekend, so I can enjoy a long nice autumn day ride. And empty the tank a bit...
M
I think marp68 has a 75, it should have a two standard petcocks. The later bikes 78 and later started using just one vaccum petcock.
The vaccum petcock is a bit larger. The positions are prime /on/reserve. It has an extra hose coming out the back that hooks two the carb holder. engine vaccum goes through the extra hose to turn the fuel on when the engine is running. The vaccum wont fit on the standard tank, and the standard won't fit the vaccum tanks. Mike's does sell a standard petcock that does fit a vaccum tank.
He also sells repair kits that have the parts you need to rebuild your petcocks.
#20-0014. $15 US dollars. He has partners in Europe. His site has links.
The vaccum petcock is a bit larger. The positions are prime /on/reserve. It has an extra hose coming out the back that hooks two the carb holder. engine vaccum goes through the extra hose to turn the fuel on when the engine is running. The vaccum wont fit on the standard tank, and the standard won't fit the vaccum tanks. Mike's does sell a standard petcock that does fit a vaccum tank.
He also sells repair kits that have the parts you need to rebuild your petcocks.
#20-0014. $15 US dollars. He has partners in Europe. His site has links.
Marp69, Change your oil, it is prob diluted with gas by now. Before I figured out the root cause for my leak I used this in the meantime to stop wasting my gas on the floor.
http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=180689&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cse
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in that case,
Carb Rebuild Kit - Fits: XS650SG-SL (1980-84) stock Mikuni 34mm. CV carbs
Kit Contains : Push-in Float Valve assembly with O-Ring, Carb rubber passage
Part #48-1408
The O-ring shown is kit is prob your cause for leaks, it was in my case too. if the petcocks leak these float valves should stop it before it floods the crankcase or garage floor with gas.
Easy way to get the float pin out is use a pair of diagonal cutters under the head. Not to cut the head off, but to lever it out. Doesn't have to go back in real tight. Float bowl wall blocks it from coming out.
chopitdropit
XS650 Addict
I don't know if anyone else has run into this but I had gone to the hardware store and matched up some o rings by trial and error that fit nice and snug, but then had to order a rebuild kit from mikes because of a seeping valve needle. The seat didn't fit as snug with the o ring in the kit..came in and out way to easy for my taste so I went back to the hardware store o ring.
Sounds serious! Can the oil be diluted with gas? Does an overflow of gas during the night also finds its way to the cylinder and down??? What can happen if it is diluted? Would it be possible to check this by i.e. smell the gas in the oil in the oil stick?
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"The O-ring shown is kit is prob your cause for leaks, it was in my case too. if the petcocks leak these float valves should stop it before it floods the crankcase or garage floor with gas. "
chopitdropit, do you mean the o-ring in the float bowl or in the petcock? In the clymer manual, there are twom images of the carb, one with or-ring, one without. And both carbs looks to be the same type, non vacuum.
Anyway, I will try to empty the tank into a big plastic bucket this evening. Hopefully it wont take that long draining the tank through the petcock tube...
M
chopitdropit, do you mean the o-ring in the float bowl or in the petcock? In the clymer manual, there are twom images of the carb, one with or-ring, one without. And both carbs looks to be the same type, non vacuum.
Anyway, I will try to empty the tank into a big plastic bucket this evening. Hopefully it wont take that long draining the tank through the petcock tube...
M
It is possible for gas to leak down into the oil and dilute it, less viscosity if this happens. Should be able to smell the gas in the oil. An oil change is cheap compared to an engine rebuild.
I had the same problems. I fixed the carbs leak and then purchased the old style petcock (1) that has on, off and reserve, then I linked the 2 vacuum barbs on the carburator intake boots together with a length of vacuum hose.
Sundie
Jabroni
Just Specials. All standards came with 2 petcocks.
Progress!
I put some transparent tubes on each petcock and it seems (after 5 min) that it's only one of them that leaks. So I guess it flows over to the other carb through the fuel balance tube between the carbs, right?
In my clymer manual, there are two images of two "typical" carbs (no names or type mentioned). However, one image shows only one carb, the other image shows two carbs that seem to be connected. So I guess I have that one.
I probably will have time to drain it tonight, so if it only takes 15 min, I can check the petcock tonight.
If it doesn't work out to flip the rubber washer around, maybe I could block the one that leaks and put a t-connection on the one that doesn't. Would that work? Would one petcock be able to supply two carbs? Could be a temporarily solution until I get the new washer.
M
I put some transparent tubes on each petcock and it seems (after 5 min) that it's only one of them that leaks. So I guess it flows over to the other carb through the fuel balance tube between the carbs, right?
In my clymer manual, there are two images of two "typical" carbs (no names or type mentioned). However, one image shows only one carb, the other image shows two carbs that seem to be connected. So I guess I have that one.
I probably will have time to drain it tonight, so if it only takes 15 min, I can check the petcock tonight.
If it doesn't work out to flip the rubber washer around, maybe I could block the one that leaks and put a t-connection on the one that doesn't. Would that work? Would one petcock be able to supply two carbs? Could be a temporarily solution until I get the new washer.
M
Damn!
One of the "walls" of one of the four holes on rubber washer were damaged. So I flipped it over and mounted it again, followed by the tap and plate (with On, Off and Res marked on it) with the wave washer between. Like in the clymer manual. And some gas to test it.
The tap itself started now to leak outside. I think it's leaking between the tap itself and the plate (that has the marks On, Off and Res on it).
So, did I do anything wrong? Why didn't leak outside before? Why does it leak so much. I really tightened tha tap back again. Can it be the wave washer? But it's not in any worse condition than before. I might just have put it back slightly differently, turning it.
Tomorrow I will go to my local store to see if they might have the rubber washer and the wave washer. If not, I'll have to order it from Mikes partner in Germany, which will probably take a week or two.
This wasn't exactly the first thing I imagined myself doing when I bought the bike one week ago. And the neighbours are already complaing about the smell that makes its way up from the cellar....
M
One of the "walls" of one of the four holes on rubber washer were damaged. So I flipped it over and mounted it again, followed by the tap and plate (with On, Off and Res marked on it) with the wave washer between. Like in the clymer manual. And some gas to test it.
The tap itself started now to leak outside. I think it's leaking between the tap itself and the plate (that has the marks On, Off and Res on it).
So, did I do anything wrong? Why didn't leak outside before? Why does it leak so much. I really tightened tha tap back again. Can it be the wave washer? But it's not in any worse condition than before. I might just have put it back slightly differently, turning it.
Tomorrow I will go to my local store to see if they might have the rubber washer and the wave washer. If not, I'll have to order it from Mikes partner in Germany, which will probably take a week or two.
This wasn't exactly the first thing I imagined myself doing when I bought the bike one week ago. And the neighbours are already complaing about the smell that makes its way up from the cellar....
M
On the 80 Special petcock I just had apart there is also a seal (not an o-ring) on the perimeter of the tap, the part with the handle, I removed it, lubed it with silicone and reassembled everything. Don't know how it worked though because someone bought the bike before I could put gas in it.
That's where the wave washer was mounted, but no more seal. And it was okej before I dissambled the tap.
Maybe the wave washer should be mounted a certain way? It wasn' broken or twisted differently after taking it out.
On the plate with four holes (on which the rubber seal with four holes are mounted), the two upper holes had "walls", but not the two lower holes. When I flipped the rubber seal, I put the hole with broken walls against over one of the alu holes with walls (the upper right hole). Would it be better to put it against one of the non walls alu holes, the lower ones?
Maybe the wave washer should be mounted a certain way? It wasn' broken or twisted differently after taking it out.
On the plate with four holes (on which the rubber seal with four holes are mounted), the two upper holes had "walls", but not the two lower holes. When I flipped the rubber seal, I put the hole with broken walls against over one of the alu holes with walls (the upper right hole). Would it be better to put it against one of the non walls alu holes, the lower ones?
